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Fixing the loud pop from the EHX Bad Stone

Jared Lash

Jared Lash

Born under punches
Aug 21, 2006
15,588
5,156
Denver, CO
#1
So I recently bought another EHX Nano Bad Stone. It has one of my absolute phaser sounds but it also has one of the most ridiculous loud popping stomp switches I've ever encountered.

From what I've read a 100k resistor from the PCB output to ground may fix the issue, but I'd honestly love to put in an all new relay based stomp. Would this be possible? And if so, who could I approach to get the work done?

So frustrating. Love the pedal's sound - hate the build quality.
 
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#2
You can buy kits that have all the parts, but requires soldering components to a PCB along with installing it into the pedal. Mammoth, Smallbear and others sell these - if you type 'relay true bypass kit' into a search engine you'll probably find more.

If you're not DIY inclined there will be pedal makers who would do this. The switch for this bypass is physically silent, but the audio pops that can occur with clicking footswitches aren't necessarily eradicated with relay true bypass (in my experience they are quieter though).

Maybe a simpler option is to by a ready made relay effects loop - then just use that to bypass you're EHX. A 100K reisstor (if they isn't already one there) on the output of the EHX (plus a 1M or above on the input) can lessen audio popping - it just keeps the input and output capacitors at 0V, thus preventing any potential DC offsets. However it's not guaranteed to stop popping completely, as other things can cause popping - switch contacts (unavoidable really) and DC being imposed elsewhere on a signal line for example.
 
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#3
Ranger Nessy said:
You can buy kits that have all the parts, but requires soldering components to a PCB along with installing it into the pedal. Mammoth, Smallbear and others sell these - if you type 'relay true bypass kit' into a search engine you'll probably find more.

If you're not DIY inclined there will be pedal makers who would do this. The switch for this bypass is physically silent, but the audio pops that can occur with clicking footswitches aren't necessarily eradicated with relay true bypass (in my experience they are quieter though).

Maybe a simpler option is to by a ready made relay effects loop - then just use that to bypass you're EHX. A 100K reisstor (if they isn't already one there) on the output of the EHX (plus a 1M or above on the input) can lessen audio popping - it just keeps the input and output capacitors at 0V, thus preventing any potential DC offsets. However it's not guaranteed to stop popping completely, as other things can cause popping - switch contacts (unavoidable really) and DC being imposed elsewhere on a signal line for example.
Click to expand...

Excellent reply!:thumbsup:

-Frank
 
#4
Thanks for that. Nice to know I have some options.

I think tonight I'll try soldering in the resistor and see if that reduces or eliminates the popping. If so, I may just stop there. If not, I may go with a simple, relay-based, 1 loop effects looper.
 
#5
Jared Lash said:
Thanks for that. Nice to know I have some options.

I think tonight I'll try soldering in the resistor and see if that reduces or eliminates the popping. If so, I may just stop there. If not, I may go with a simple, relay-based, 1 loop effects looper.
Click to expand...

Here is another option for you that uses photo MOSFET switching for "pop-less" switching.

Invalid Link Removed

-Frank
 
Last edited:
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#6
Jared Lash said:
Thanks for that. Nice to know I have some options.

I think tonight I'll try soldering in the resistor and see if that reduces or eliminates the popping. If so, I may just stop there. If not, I may go with a simple, relay-based, 1 loop effects looper.
Click to expand...


upload_2016-6-20_16-55-50.png


Gutshot of the Bad Stone. Mine also pops like crazy and I have tried many things as well to remedy the pop but nothing works.

I have a 100k resistor and soldering iron, but not sure where to put that resistor.

If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.
 
#7
XXL said:
View attachment 891536

Gutshot of the Bad Stone. Mine also pops like crazy and I have tried many things as well to remedy the pop but nothing works.

I have a 100k resistor and soldering iron, but not sure where to put that resistor.

If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Here's the thread I'm using for my info:

Invalid Link Removed
 
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#9
Update: I soldered a 100k resistor across the pedal output to the ground.

Now there's no pop when clicking the Bad Stone off, but still a loud (but seemingly slightly less loud than before) pop when clicking it on. It's pretty brutal at gig volume.

This is my favorite phaser tone but I can't deal with that popping. What small and/or custom pedal builders/modders could help me out with a better fix?

Anything else I can try myself?
 
#13
1 meg on input 100k on out.
called pull down resistors and one method to remove popping

or rewire the switch similar to the bypass methods used on all mxr pedals. no tone sucking not true bypass but close enough.no popping cause of the way the input is wired, and the original switch method used on the fuzz face. it's true bypass but the input is wired differently and engages a pull down resistor and very effective for true bypass and no popping

unless done correctly true bypass is a very poor switching method just for this reason. I often call it true pop switching lol.my big muff did same thing. And it's funny small stone is not to amazing with guitar but literally the best phaser for bass. Likewise the chorus is best for bass too
 
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#14
Jared Lash said:
I don't know if I'll get a chance before I leave for a business trip tomorrow but I'll try.

I used two 100 k resistors but I'm wondering if a pair of 1 M ohm resistors would have worked even better.
Click to expand...


If this schematic is the version that you have, then there is already a 100K from input to ground. That is a low value for input impedance and paralleling another 100K will reduce the input impedance to 50K.

JFET%20Bad%20Stone%20schematic.png


-Frank
 
#15
Here is another one that appears to be a newer design. It still has 100K input impedance but it uses B1 as a buffered output when the output switch is in the "A" position with a 47K to ground. When the output switch is in the "K" position you have a 470 ohm to ground.

badstone_2.jpg


-Frank
 
#17
On the second schematic above, the 47K that connects to point "A" on the switch is drawn as going to a bias ground of approx 4.5V. I think this is an error in the schematic, the 47K on point "A" should go to ground. The same for the 470 ohm on point "K". Otherwise the output jack will have DC voltage.

-Frank
 

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