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Flats recommendations for Fretless Telebass

Ok, here’s yet another “what strings” thread.

I’m thinking of changing the strings on my Squier VM Precision Bass TB that has been converted to fretless. It’s currently strung with Chromes, 45-100 IIRC. They’ve been on it since mid 2020, so not particularly old, but I’m noticing a really considerable lack of definition on the E string, especially when I’m plucking up on the neck. It’s almost like a vacuum sucked out the note, and all I’m left with is the undertones. The rest of the strings still sound great, IMO.

If I’m going to change one, I’m going to change the whole set, so I’m looking for recommendations. I could use chromes again, but that’s no fun as I’ve already had those, and I want to explore something new. Prior to the chromes, I’ve had EB group flats (worked great for years, but were a touch darker than I’d care to return to), fender 9050L (too bright & didn’t fit the character of the bass), and EB slinky rounds (I want to keep this bass w/ flats now).

Some further considerations:
  • I don’t like high tension strings, but I do like my action as low as possible without buzzing when played with a medium touch (finger style). The 45-100 sets I’ve tried seem to be a good tension.
  • Even string to string volume and tension is important to me.
  • This is a string-through-body bass, so the strings need to able to handle that. I’ll say this, though; it hasn’t been an issue with any of the aforementioned sets…unless that’s why my E string is dead.

What I’m considering -
  • TI jazz flats: cuz I hear they’re awesome.
  • Dunlop flats: just curious about them.
  • LaBella low tension: because I hear DTFs are bridge cables.
  • Dogal flats: because they seem neat
  • Cobalt flats: I have a set on my FL foundation, and like them…but not sure about the string through aspect.
  • Others???

I know there’s no magic perfect set, so it’s very subjective. Just wonder what folks would suggest give the above. I’ve attached videos of this bass for refer on how it’s sounded in the past.

with EB groups:

With chromes (last bass played in video)
 
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A set you might consider trying that's not on your list is the LaBella 750N (black nylon tapewound 45-105). I put a set on my fretless bass and love them.

That warning is not present on their tapewounds.

I don't imagine the tapewounds would be a problem, but you could always email them and ask.

Do any of you know if there’s the typical nylon string grounding issue with these strings?

I’ve use nylons on a guitar before, and they didn’t last long. The constant hum from the strings not grounding drove me crazy.
 
Ok, here’s yet another “what strings” thread.

I’m thinking of changing the strings on my Squier VM Precision Bass TB that has been converted to fretless. It’s currently strung with Chromes, 45-100 IIRC. They’ve been on it since mid 2020, so not particularly old, but I’m noticing a really considerable lack of definition on the E string, especially when I’m plucking up on the neck. It’s almost like a vacuum sucked out the note, and all I’m left with is the undertones. The rest of the strings still sound great, IMO.

If I’m going to change one, I’m going to change the whole set, so I’m looking for recommendations. I could use chromes again, but that’s no fun as I’ve already had those, and I want to explore something new. Prior to the chromes, I’ve had EB group flats (worked great for years, but were a touch darker than I’d care to return to), fender 9050L (too bright & didn’t fit the character of the bass), and EB slinky rounds (I want to keep this bass w/ flats now).

Some further considerations:
  • I don’t like high tension strings, but I do like my action as low as possible without buzzing when played with a medium touch (finger style). The 45-100 sets I’ve tried seem to be a good tension.
  • Even string to string volume and tension is important to me.
  • This is a string-through-body bass, so the strings need to able to handle that. I’ll say this, though; it hasn’t been an issue with any of the aforementioned sets…unless that’s why my E string is dead.

What I’m considering -
  • TI jazz flats: cuz I hear they’re awesome.
  • Dunlop flats: just curious about them.
  • LaBella low tension: because I hear DTFs are bridge cables.
  • Dogal flats: because they seem neat
  • Cobalt flats: I have a set on my FL foundation, and like them…but not sure about the string through aspect.
  • Others???
Well...
First of all, don't confuse "Tension" (pounds of pull) with "Stiffness". High tension does make strings feel stiff, but it's not the same thing. So...
- TI Jazz Flats. You probably won't like them. They are very low tension - and they feel like it, too. They are also pretty unbalanced - in both feel and tone. They get better with age, but... IME? Not a whole lot; especially the A string. But, their tone is awfully hard to beat. Which is why I put up with them on my '95 Alembic Epic...
- Dunlop Flats. I'm curious about them, too. My Serek Sacramento Bass will ship with Dunlops on it - and I should have had it in my hands by now. But... problems have stalled the delivery, so...?
- La Bella LTFFs. The perfect example of why tension does not equal stiffness. They have even less actual tension than the TI Jazz Flats do, but... they feel like what they are; round core, light gauge flats. Not "limp/floppy/noodle-y/whatever" at all... I have them on my G&L Kiloton lined fretless bass; I'm liking them a lot. They might be a really good choice for you...
And, for the record; I use La Bella DTFs on several of my 27 basses, and unless you get the very heaviest gauges? They are fairly stiff, but bridge cables they are not...
- Dogal Flats. Which ones? I have the R44 "Traditional" flats on my Gibson Thunderbird. I did think about putting my spare set of them on my Kiloton fretless, but I flipped a coin - and the La Bellas won. They might be worth a try... I also have a set of their "Jaco" CarbonSteel Flats on my '73 Rick 4001. It's developing the neck issues that some older 4001's are prone to, and the CarbonSteel Flats have insanely low tension; about 1/3 that of the TI's or La Bella LTFF's. But, they are not the least bit limp feeling. Those might also be worth a try...
- EB Slinky Cobalts. Again, I'm curious, too. I bought a couple of set of them a few years ago - two different gauges - but, turns out they were counterfeits. So, they met Mr. Dumpster, and I never bothered replacing them. I'm not a big fan of bright flats, anyway. TIJF's - and Fender 9050L's - are about as bright as I care to get...
As for these strings working on a thru-body bass? Well, the TIJF's certainly would - I had a set on my string-thru only '93 Fury Anthem fretless - for about 15 minutes (long story). But removing them had nothing to do with stringing them thru-body. People here on TB, don't seem to have had any problem stringing La Bella LTFF's thru-body - although La Bella does advise not doing it with their DTF's that don't have a "TB" suffix to the model number. As for the others? The Dogals are round core flats, which might let them get away with it. Otherwise? IME, it really depends on the actual break angle over the bridge saddles. The shallower the angle, the more likely that you'll be successful...:cool:
 
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Well...
First of all, don't confuse "Tension" (pounds of pull) with "Stiffness". High tension does make strings feel stiff, but it's not the same thing. So...
- TI Jazz Flats. You probably won't like them. They are very low tension - and they feel like it, too. They are also pretty unbalanced - in both feel and tone. They get better with age, but... IME? Not a whole lot; especially the A string. But, their tone is awfully hard to beat. Which is why I put up with them on my '95 Alembic Epic...
- Dunlop Flats. I'm curious about them, too. MY Serek Sacramento Bass will ship with Dunlops on it - and I should have had it in my hands by now. But... problems have stalled the delivery, so...?
- La Bella LTFFs. The perfect example of why tension does not equal stiffness. They have even less actual tension than the TI Jazz Flats do, but... they feel like what they are; round core, light gauge flats. Not "limp/floppy/noodle-y/whatever" at all... I have them on my G&L Kiloton lined fretless bass; I'm liking them a lot. They might be a really good choice for you...
And, for the record; I use La Bella DTFs on several of my 27 basses, and unless you get the very heaviest gauges? They are fairly stiff, but bridge cables they are not...
- Dogal Flats. Which ones? I have the R44 "Traditional" flats on my Gibson Thunderbird. I did think about putting my spare set of them on my Kiloton fretless, but I flipped a coin - and the La Bellas won. They might be worth a try... I also have a set of their "Jaco" CarbonSteel Flats on my '73 Rick 4001. It's developing the neck issues that some older 4001's are prone to, and the CarbonSteel Flats have insanely low tension; about 1/3 that of the TI's or La Bella LTFF's. But, they are not the least bit limp feeling. Those might also be worth a try...
- EB Slinky Cobalts. Again, I'm curious, too. I bought a couple of set of them a few years ago - two different gauges - but, turns out they were counterfeits. So, they met Mr. Dumpster, and I never bothered replacing them. I'm not a big fan of bright flats, anyway. TIJF's - and Fender 9050L's - are about as bright as I care to get...
As for these strings working on a thru-body bass? Well, the TIJF's certainly would - I had a set on my string-thru only '93 Fury Anthem fretless - for about 15 minutes (long story). But removing them had nothing to do with stringing them thru-body. People here on TB, don't seem to have had any problem stringing La Bella LTFF's thru-body - although La Bella does advise not doing it with their DTF's that don't have a "TB" suffix to the model number. As for the others? The Dogals are round core flats, which might let them get away with it. Otherwise? IME, it really depends on the actual break angle over the bridge saddles. The shallower the angle, the more likely you'll be successful...:cool:
Thank you for the very thorough recount of person experience with these. Now I think I’ve narrowed it down to Labella LTF, Dunlops, and labella tapes, or these Dogal Jacos (just because they sound intriguing).
At the very least, TIJFs aren’t sounding very appealing to me anymore. You’re right about tension & stiffness being different. I would prefer low tension, medium stiffness. I’ve played on a few floppy sets, and can’t stand the feeling of chasing the string around because it won’t stop wobbling, so sounds like TIs are out.
 
Any idea how they do with string through bridges? Labella seems to be one that recommends people don’t string through body for their flats.

Do any of you know if there’s the typical nylon string grounding issue with these strings?

When tapewounds are top-loaded, the ball ends have metal-to-metal contact with the bridge. But when you have them "thru-body", the ball ends don't contact the bridge, which can be problematic as it could increase the chance of grounding issue.
 
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Do any of you know if there’s the typical nylon string grounding issue with these strings?
I’ve use nylons on a guitar before, and they didn’t last long. The constant hum from the strings not grounding drove me crazy.
When tapewounds are top-loaded, the ball ends have metal-to-metal contact with the bridge. But when you have them "thru-body", the ball ends don't contact the bridge, which can be problematic as it could increase the chance of grounding issue.
I'll have to agree. I replaced the disappointing TIJF's on my thru-body only Fury Anthem with a set of Roto TruBass 88M tapes, and... yes, there is a slight grounding issue. It's barely noticeable - unless you crank the gain up on the amp - but it's definitely there. Which is... annoying, since it's pretty obvious that it was intended to wear tape wounds to begin with. Further investigation is needed... However; every other bass - with a top loaded bridge - that I use - or have used - tapes on? No problem at all...:cool:
 
When tapewounds are top-loaded, the ball ends have metal-to-metal contact with the bridge. But when you have them "thru-body", the ball ends don't contact the bridge, which can be problematic as it could increase the chance of grounding issue.

I'll have to agree. I replaced the disappointing TIJF's on my thru-body only Fury Anthem with a set of Roto TruBass 88M tapes, and... yes, there is a slight grounding issue. It's barely noticeable - unless you crank the gain up on the amp - but it's definitely there. Which is... annoying, since it's pretty obvious that it was intended to wear tape wounds to begin with. Further investigation is needed... However; every other bass - with a top loaded bridge - that I use - or have used - tapes on? No problem at all...:cool:

Thanks! That helps whittle down the list. I’ll try those on another bass some other time. Maybe my CV50s tele bass, once it’s 9050s die.