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Fodera Club Part XVII

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as far as i know, that is incorrect.

afaik, it was made for a friend of theirs, who i think also had the alembic/fodera hybrid made (and some deep pockets).

i had bugged them about doing this as early as 1988. when joey told me they did this bass, i insisted (!) that they make me mine. since mine is from 2003, and it took a few years to make, this probably went down in the late 1990s.

(when i somehow come up the scratch, i want a fretless 12)


vadim's bass is a 33-inch fretless 10-string, which may have been influenced by mine ;-) i played his, it's nice.

You don't happen to have a picture of your bass handy?
 
In..

DSC00177.jpg
 
Okay gang I am really interested in YOUR thoughts about this one. As many of you know, I have what might very well be my last personal Fodera build on order. I am 100% set on the following specs:

Monarch 4 Elite 34" / 24 frets
5-piece Maple Neck (one of the six 30th Anniversary necks we built with Birdseye Maple, Flame Maple and South American Rosewood stringers)
Brazilian RW FB
Chestnut Tone Block
Single Coil J/J PUPs
Crotch Walnut top

This coming week I need to make my final decision on the following things and it is driving me nuts as with every other instrument I have had built I had a specific tone / purpose in mind. And, as I am fortunate enough to have multiple Monarchs already, I definitely don't "need" another.

That said, it IS our 30th Anniversary this year and knowing this I placed my order in the Fall of 2011 (yes, I both pay AND wait in line for my builds!), because I wanted to have an instrument built in our 30th Anniversary year and actually have it stamped on our anniversary (March 14, 2013). Iin case you did not know this, every one of our instruments is date stamped under the bridge on the day that the woodworking / carving is completed.

So, here are the two remaining build specs that I am up in the air on...

1. Body wood;
2. Top (non-solid bookmatched vs. solid quartermatched)

In terms of body wood, I am waffling back and forth (depending on the day) between a stellar piece of old-growth Honduran Mahogany that was harvested in the 1920's and Ash.

The "collector" in me is screaming to use the Honduran as having that as a body wood with a Brazilian RW FB and a Chestnut Tone Block would be an insane tonewood trifecta. I do love this tonewood combination, but I already have two other Foderas with Mahogany bodies and Brazilian FB's...

As much as we have recently been building with (and loving!) combinations of Ash bodies with RW FB's, I actually do not personally own one. So, from a tone perspective, I would love to have a Fodera of my own with this combination. Yes, I will be able to pick through the wood pile and find a killer sounding and looking piece of Ash, but for a 30th Anniversary instrument, no piece of Ash that I can find will come close to the rarity of the piece of Honduran that is available.

As far as the top is concerned, about 18 months ago we received one of the most stunning pieces of feather crotch Walnut Vinny, Joey and I have ever seen. It has enough material for three tops. The only downside to the piece is that if I used it as a solid top, the feather crotch would be dominant towards the center of the instrument -- a place that is visually obscured by the PUP's, strings and bridge.

So, I have been leaning towards a non-solid top that would place the heavy crotch feather figure more towards the center of each body wing rather than under the strings (if I went with the solid top). Remember, the neck billet for this instrument is flat out stunning, so showing that on the face of the instrument would definitely NOT be a negative!

However, since we have enough material available, I am contemplating biting the bullet and paying for a second top and doing the very first quartermatched top -- imagine a bookmatched set on each side of the instrument. Vinny has always wanted to do one of these but has yet to do one. It would certainly be unique and probably look stunning, but I would loose the "old world" look of seeing the stunning neck billet (and it would cost a bunch more!).

So, I submit these quandaries to you humbly knowing how much I have enjoyed helping many of you make final selections for the specs of your Foderas and hoping you will help me do the same!

Kindest regards,

J
 
Fun decisions and looks like it will be a stunning instrument.

My only input is to your 'solid top' issue. I would go with solid top, period. For a special bass like the one you are spec'ing, having that neck through wood splitting a beautiful top is always a bit painful for me.

If the piece of wood you really dig doesn't lend itself to being used in a solid top, on an instrument that is as much of a museum piece as the rest of your spec, I would choose a different piece of topwood. I'm sure you have a few other unique woods to choose from:D

IMO!

Edit: The 5 piece neck IMO makes my preference for a solid top even stronger. Too many 'visual design components' with the highly figured side wings combined with the multiple wood veneers of the neck. IMO. If the cost is a bit much (per your post) to go with a solid top, I'd move from an Elite to a set-neck deluxe. You would never IMO and IME hear ANY difference.
 
Great point Ken. That said, the look of a non-solid top is actually one that is neutral to me...I like our instruments both with solid and non-solid tops.

Oh, and this bass will definitely get played (not merely be a museum piece). Sadly, not as much as any of my Foderas deserve to get played as I have a variety to choose from...

Regards,

J

Fun decisions and looks like it will be a stunning instrument.

My only input is to your 'solid top' issue. I would go with solid top, period. For a special bass like the one you are spec'ing, having that neck through wood splitting a beautiful top is always a bit painful for me.

If the piece of wood you really dig doesn't lend itself to being used in a solid top, on an instrument that is as much of a museum piece as the rest of your spec, I would choose a different piece of topwood. I'm sure you have a few other unique woods to choose from:D

IMO!
 
Great point Ken. That said, the look of a non-solid top is actually one that is neutral to me...I like our instruments both with solid and non-solid tops.

+1 in general. Per my edit above though, a complex neck with a highly figured piece of top veneer (especially walnut, which will I assume be much darker than the exposed neck)..... that can often get you into trouble IMO. Too much of a good thing sometimes! Pure IMO there.

Also, have a GREAT NAMM. Seeing all those amazing basses, amazing players (Pope, Garrison, etc.) and Vinnie, etc. in the booth was a thrill for me last year. Nice meeting you face to face also. Hope to do it again in a few years! I continue to be SO impressed with the organization/discipline you've brought to this wonderful brand!
 
Jason,

I really would be interessted in seeing this idea of a "quartermatched" top .... maybe someone in your team is good at photoshop ? :)

Since I know that you only deserve the best - you should go with the Honduran body and the quartermatched top ;)

My sound is the Ash / RW combination so I would go with this and add a non solid top ;)
 
Irony! It's kinda fun to see you, with the selection of the best of the best woods at your fingertips, struggling with specs. While I think we all wish we could be in that position, we would all blow our minds trying to make those decisions.

I personally would love to see pics of the top(and the chestnut) before giving my opinion of whether it should be solid, non-solid or quarter matched. My gut feeling says do what has never been done and go with the latter; that alone would make this a special bass.

The selfish part of me says to put aside that piece of mahogany for my bass that goes into production in July;) and go with ash; and since I'm sure bass #3000 has the most killer sounding mahogany body already why not go with the tone wood combo you don't have. Plus I think the single coils would be happier.
 
Man if I was ordering bass I would ask Jason for suggestions, and now he asks us.... ;) mind blowing

Since you already have two Foderas with Mahogany bodies and Brazilian FB, I can't see any reason why you thinking about not having one more :)
Specially adding Chestnut in that killer configuration.

and about "non-solid bookmatched vs. solid quartermatched"
I would always go for solid... but that's just me !!!
 
Okay gang I am really interested in YOUR thoughts about this one.

Since you asked...
You seem to really like the Stellar piece of Honduran, so I would say go with that. The Quarter matched top will be killer, much better than the split top, IMO. Since this is an anniversary bass, pull out all the stops and do what jazzes you...

You will have other opportunities for an ash bass, and when the time is right one will find its way into your stable... Now is the time for Honduran Mahogany.

Cheers,

Jim

Another thought: With such a stellar top, you may want to dress up the fingerboard markings. Perhaps use Mother of Pearl or Abalone. I'm thinking small Fodera butterflies made out of Abalone, instead of dots, would be awesome. Enough, now I'm getting GAS...
 
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