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From wood block to Jazzbass

I just started a luthier class, where we get to choose to build a Jazzbass, Strat or Tele. I went for the first time yesterday. Photos included.

Any hardware suggestions would be nice. Wood is included but I have to get all the hardware myself. Bridge, Pickups, electronics, tuners etc.

I previously have a FBass BN5 and a MM Bongo5. I like the warm, full sound of them when both pickups are on and would like something in that direction from my Jazz.

The wood block has been cut:
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Glueing the two blocks together.
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Drawing the body out.
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Drawing the neck out.
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Neck after I sawed it on top of the body block.
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After the first day
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I'm in Iceland, this class has been held in Reykjavík once-twice a year since 2007 or 2008.

It's a 100 hour class. 5 hours twice a week for 10 weeks.

Really looking forward to next class :) Will post pictures after every class for those interested in following.
 
I would absolutely love to take a class like that. I'm 46 and it would take a LOT for me to be interested in any kind of class or school but I would totally do that.

If I could make any bass I would make a 5 string Destroyer so I would be the only person with one.

Thanks for sharing!

Cheers!

MJW
 
Second time yesterday.

Before sanding the sides
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Had a little accident while sawing.. took me about half an hour to sand it down and smoothen it out.
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More sanding
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Sanding those cutaways is rather hard
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Getting all nice and smooth
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Marking up the neck before fine sawing it.
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Close-sawing the neck.. probably the most precise sawing I've done in my life :)
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Gunnar Örn, the instructor, routing the neck from the template. We cut it as close as possible with the saw, since If the router is doing to much at once there is a chance that the wood will split a bit.
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At the end of day two, 18 more to go
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Is that router just clamped upside down to the table? That is extremely dangerous and that instructor should know better. A router table with the router base bolted to it from the bottom is the correct way. The router cannot move, and it gives you more surface area to control your work.
 
Is that router just clamped upside down to the table? That is extremely dangerous and that instructor should know better. A router table with the router base bolted to it from the bottom is the correct way. The router cannot move, and it gives you more surface area to control your work.

I'm really digging the eye protection thats going on haha.

If there was a class like this offered at my school, I would definitely take it! I never got to do wood shop since I wanted to do band, so I'm having to learn on my own making stupid mistakes:P

Good luck! I'm gonna follow this:)
 
Went for the third time today.

Comparing two Jazz bodies (mine is the one on the bottom)
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Had to sand it a bit more down:
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Glueing the template before routing for the pickups and electronics.
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Routed out:
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How do you fit a square pickup to a round hole ?
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Half way there:
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And there we are:
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Drilled the holes for the neckbolts. Will route for the neck next time.
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Is that router just clamped upside down to the table? That is extremely dangerous and that instructor should know better. A router table with the router base bolted to it from the bottom is the correct way. The router cannot move, and it gives you more surface area to control your work.

I walked into the shop of a luthier with a strong rep and he had a 24" saw blade chucked up in his drill press. I asked what that was for and he said he used it to take the top off a Les Paul when he retopped them. I asked him why in the world he did something so dangerous and he said it was the way he was taught to do it. Maybe the guy with the clamped on router was just doing it the way he was taught? It scares the crap out of me as well to think about working that way, but when I think about some of the stuff I do, right, wrong, safe or otherwise, I do it just like I was taught to do it and never questioned why.

In addition to being habitual in our work, I also think there is a certain amount of bravado involved in doing things other people think might be crazy or dangerous, or easier to do another way. Perhaps it's just a little showing off?

I realize the why is really not important if the guy is trying to teach people he should be doing it in a manner more akin to the skill level of his students, not to mention the safety aspect.
 
you did a good job squaring the corners of the pickup rout but I am wondering why the template was not more square in the ends to begin with. Was that to give an opportunity to use the chisel?

The bigger the bit (and roller bearing) the more rounded the corner. You can get them more square by using a smaller diameter bit, but the smaller bits come with their own set of issues.

If you are doing a bunch of squared corners, there is a very handy tool out there that is "self squaring" and cuts the two sides at the same time. It cuts a very, very clean corner.

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I have a 3/16" pattern bit that works well for cutting the corners of pickup routs. Tight rounded corners of the rout match the pickup cover better than sharp squared off corners. The small bits are not meant to rout out the hole cavity, but only to clean the corners up after the majority of the material is removed with a 1/2" bit. I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, but you would get more out of this class by learning what not to do.