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G&L Club Part 7

#20,921
Holdsg said:
I know that Spector uses a similar locking mechanism for its bridges.
Click to expand...

Well, the Spector bridge (at least on my Euro 5XL) had bridge saddles that just kind of sat/floated on the platform base of the bridge and then could be locked in place once you'd manually slid them around to get the intonation set. There weren't the screws and springs whereby you could move the saddles forward and back using a Philips head screwdriver. I did not like that Spector version—although I did like the bass otherwise. [Edit: Just did a Google search and I see that at least some of the Spector bass bridges have the screw/spring set-up.]
 
#20,922
jglunt said:
I: I snug the set screw until I feel tension, then I use the thinnest feeler gauge in my set (available at any auto parts store) to see if the bridge saddles are all touching the ones next to them. If they are, I stop tightening. If they're not, I snug it a little more and repeat the process. Once the gauge tells me they're snug and secure, I stop. I also double-check where the saddles are at visually. That works for me, and the entire process takes a minute or less. However, if you're not having any problem with it, just tighten, play, and have fun!
Click to expand...

OK, What's the torque spec? Zero clearance can have little pressure on the screw threads or a lot.
What about the nylon tip of the screw? Once you overtighten does it need to be replaced?
If you want to try something scientific, record the same passage with the screw loose, tight, and extra tight.
I think the real test is what happens of the screw had no tip and a steel to steel interference fit.

I think the answer is the difference is like spitting in the ocean. Probably not repeatable results but a good idea that cost nothing and really didn't add any weight.

Now let's talk about the bottom of the bridge where it supposedly presses against the end grain of the body for increased sustain. How tight should this fit be? If it's too tight (say .020" interference fit) does bowing the body .0003" affect the tone?
Would a hard chrome finish be better than zinc plating for the bridge?

By now the strings are too worn for the test to be accurate.
Oh, and define better!! :)
 
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#20,923
Jim C said:
OK, What's the torque spec? Zero clearance can have little pressure on the screw threads or a lot.
What about the nylon tip of the screw? Once you overtighten does it need to be replaced?
If you want to try something scientific, record the same passage with the screw loose, tight, and extra tight.
I think the real test is what happens of the screw had no tip and a steel to steel interference fit.

I think the answer is the difference is like spitting in the ocean. Probably not repeatable results but a good idea that cost nothing and really didn't add any weight.

Now let's talk about the bottom of the bridge where it supposedly presses against the end grain of the body for increased sustain. How tight should this fit be? If it's too tight (say .020" interference fit) does bowing the body .0003" affect the tone?
Would a hard chrome finish be better than zinc plating for the bridge?

By now the strings are too worn for the test to be accurate.
Oh, and define better!! :)
Click to expand...

Exactly why I ended with: "If you're not having any problem with it, just tighten, play, and have fun!"
 
#20,927
I'm very happy I got mine. Cheap!
thumbnail_IMG_0731.jpg
 
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#20,929
jmlee said:
Well, the Spector bridge (at least on my Euro 5XL) had bridge saddles that just kind of sat/floated on the platform base of the bridge and then could be locked in place once you'd manually slid them around to get the intonation set. There weren't the screws and springs whereby you could move the saddles forward and back using a Philips head screwdriver. I did not like that Spector version—although I did like the bass otherwise. [Edit: Just did a Google search and I see that at least some of the Spector bass bridges have the screw/spring set-up.]
Click to expand...
Sidebar,
Spector took WAY too long to add intonation screws to the bridges.
I think around 2016? Is when they did it.



Carry on with your regularly scheduled program....
 
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#20,930
WRT the locking screw, like @woodyng2 , I leave it loose.

Why?
To my ear, it sort of compresses the tone in an unpleasing way, and, I like to be able to make adjustments without having to deal with it.

With the locking screw loose, the notes are fuller, and more open to my ear.

I've done a few back and forths, and this is where I landed.

As far as I'm concerned, I'll echo woodyng2's statements that the bridge is already so solidly designed that the notes just jump out of the bass.
 
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#20,931
dedpool1052 said:
WRT the locking screw, like @woodyng2 , I leave it loose.

Why?
To my ear, it sort of compresses the tone in an unpleasing way, and, I like to be able to make adjustments without having to deal with it.

With the locking screw loose, the notes are fuller, and more open to my ear.

I've done a few back and forths, and this is where I landed.

As far as I'm concerned, I'll echo woodyng2's statements that the bridge is already so solidly designed that the notes just jump out of the bass.
Click to expand...
Yessir, Mr Ded, you articulated exactly what my impressions are of the 3 GL basses I've owned.
I also feel like the deep 6-bolt neck pocket/join really contributes to that tightness of the sound.
It seems to be very similar to what I've had for decades with my neck-through Rickenbackers.
Quite a revelation from the Fenders I've owned.
 
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#20,933
I have a question.

What are the main differences between a LB100 and SB1/SB2.

Pickups I know.
The SB2 has two volumes but no tone control.
Will I miss the lack of tone control? I do use it on my P bass depending on what song we are playing as we shake it up ( multiple genres)

I am pretty much wanting a P or PJ , but won't discount an L2000 either.

I've had one G&L in my life and unfortunately it had a ski jump so I parted with it. It was an older bass , should have kept it , would've been vintage by now.

pros cons of these?
 
#20,934
Indiana Mike said:
I have a question.

What are the main differences between a LB100 and SB1/SB2.

Pickups I know.
The SB2 has two volumes but no tone control.
Will I miss the lack of tone control? I do use it on my P bass depending on what song we are playing as we shake it up ( multiple genres)

I am pretty much wanting a P or PJ , but won't discount an L2000 either.

I've had one G&L in my life and unfortunately it had a ski jump so I parted with it. It was an older bass , should have kept it , would've been vintage by now.

pros cons of these?
Click to expand...

Long story short is that the LB-100 is a physically modernized Precision, the SB-1 is a (further) physically modernized and sonically modernized Precision.

The SB-2 doesn't really compare to anything other than the SB-1 and can be perhaps best described as an SB-1 with a passive tilt shift EQ in the forum of a far weaker bridge pick-up. I'm sure someone who has more experience with it (I've only briefly toyed with a disoriented one at the shop) will chime in and correct me soon.

This comparison does a good job demonstrating the tonal difference between the two, despite the somewhat irritating EQ:


Personally after much deliberation between these 3 models I went with the SB-1, which I've now had for 3 years. Zero regrets*.

*other than not forcing G&L to rearmount the controls for me so I don't have a redundant piece of plastic spoiling the beautiful wood.
 
Last edited:
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#20,935
#20,936
Now I'm on the fence for a wunkay when the 40th Anniversary models come out. I love the look of the Fallouts but I have a MIA Fender Mustang and realized that short scale is just not my thing. Maybe someone will start a thread titled Kiloton vs Anniversary L1000.
 
#20,937
Indiana Mike said:
I have a question.

What are the main differences between a LB100 and SB1/SB2.

Pickups I know.
The SB2 has two volumes but no tone control.
Will I miss the lack of tone control? I do use it on my P bass depending on what song we are playing as we shake it up ( multiple genres)

I am pretty much wanting a P or PJ , but won't discount an L2000 either.

I've had one G&L in my life and unfortunately it had a ski jump so I parted with it. It was an older bass , should have kept it , would've been vintage by now.

pros cons of these?
Click to expand...
The LB100 and SB are different animals. The SB series has a Jazz neck and the body is smaller and lighter than the LB100. I have one of each, but my SB-2T has the factory tone control. I had an SB-2 with no tone control and I really didn't miss it. I was able to do what I wanted by using the two tone controls.
I prefer my SB-2T because it is lighter and the neck is easier to play than my LB100.
 
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