G&L Club Part 7

[-Asdfgh-]

To be honest there are no electronics in an L-2000 that aren't replaceable, so don't be too afraid of breaking something. Preamps, pots, and capacitors are all available online, not only Mighty Mite's New-Old-Stock ones but also better spec stuff sold by third parties, including myself. Big thing when pulling off friction fit pots is to apply even pressure when lifting.

This video has a nice technique for doing it:

I'd not seen that before. I'll see if there's enough gap to do it. Normally they pull off more easily.

 

[-Asdfgh-]

I'd not seen that before. I'll see if there's enough gap to do it. Normally they pull off more easily.

Well, they aren't budging using that technique... I'll find my little plastic tool or just get a paint pen and masking tape and mark them that way. I only have a white paint pen currently, which isn't Ideal.

 

[-Asdfgh-]

Well, they aren't budging using that technique... I'll find my little plastic tool or just get a paint pen and masking tape and mark them that way. I only have a white paint pen currently, which isn't Ideal.

There's not much space under them so I need to partly get them off to use the plastic tool which is one for removing acoustic guitar bridge pins

 

[TDR1138]

Well, they aren't budging using that technique... I'll find my little plastic tool or just get a paint pen and masking tape and mark them that way. I only have a white paint pen currently, which isn't Ideal.

I wonder if a little heat would help. Heating the knob might loosen any glue that may have been applied. Be careful not to damage the finish or the pots, though.

 

[-Asdfgh-]

I wonder if a little heat would help. Heating the knob might loosen any glue that may have been applied. Be careful not to damage the finish or the pots, though.

It should just be factory and one did move 0.5mm before I managed to somehow push it back on.

 

[Iridescentone]

I wonder if a little heat would help. Heating the knob might loosen any glue that may have been applied. Be careful not to damage the finish or the pots, though.

A Fender Japan P bass here with factory knobs that won't come off. Found that out when I decided to change out the cheapo little pots that come on so many Japan Fenders. They have set screws, but they're stuck on there real good. Neither Kroil nor moderate heat have helped.

I bought some CRC Freeze-Off spray, thinking that maybe the metal parts might shrink and break loose without Gorilla level force. Haven't tried it yet, though.

Then a brain storm blew through my skull...forget the freeze, just pull them out with whatever force needed. If the pots are destroyed in the process who cares, I'm replacing them anyway. Why deal with masking off the finish and alum pickguard. Duh right?

 

[-Asdfgh-]

I measured the L-2000 at the first fret and depth is 21.5mm. I'm definitely finding it chunky. For comparison a Jazz I find tolerable but may sand down is 20.5mm, a Cort B4 is nice at 20mm and my old Tokai Jazz which feels great is 19.5mm. I'm finding the G&L a handful.

 

[Ricky Rioli]

A few years ago, I did a lot of looking up of neck depths, hoping to find anything in recent production equal to the 22mm on my Yamaha BB424. I never did. 21.5mm sounds wonderful to me, but obviously that's going to be seeming extreme.

 

[-Asdfgh-]

A few years ago, I did a lot of looking up of neck depths, hoping to find anything in recent production equal to the 22mm on my Yamaha BB424. I never did. 21.5mm sounds wonderful to me, but obviously that's going to be seeming extreme.

I know to avoid the BB424 thanks