Gallien Krueger Club. GK Rules !

[TonyP-]

Kinda dumbfounded, today I played a gig passive USA fender dimension HH through 700rbii/neo 212 in Biamp mode with everything around 12, with the exception of the volume around 8/9 o'clock yet clip light kept on coming on consistently. I don't get why the light clips so soon, with all other amps I've used they don't clip till I'm at least @ 12 o'clock? Has anyone any thoughts on this?

Is this happening with other basses and how are your pickups set up?
Is there any hitting...I could play that setup with a cranked pre wired in series and not have that issue, so something tells me there is something else going on.

 

[Kro]

something tells me there is something else going on.

Those Dimensions are active if I'm not mistaken?

passive USA fender dimension

Edit: lack of reading comprehension strikes again!

My first guess (now) would be any effects between the bass and the amp input that boost gain.

 

[Stevorebob]

Kinda dumbfounded, today I played a gig passive USA fender dimension HH through 700rbii/neo 212 in Biamp mode with everything around 12, with the exception of the volume around 8/9 o'clock yet clip light kept on coming on consistently. I don't get why the light clips so soon, with all other amps I've used they don't clip till I'm at least @ 12 o'clock? Has anyone any thoughts on this?

Like @Kro said, the clip light displays clipping of the 700's preamp input, not amp clipping. Hard to imagine a passive bass with enough output to clip the input. My 700 and 1001 don't clip with an 18v Bongo pre. Are you running a high-gain pedal in your signal chain?

 

[Spidey2112]

Those Dimensions are active if I'm not mistaken? Edit: lack of reading comprehension strikes again!

My first guess (now) would be any effects between the bass and the amp input that boost gain.

Exactly... divide and conquer. Copy settings on all, from bass to pedals, then go simple in (flat) adding until you see the signal go 'hot', again.... is this the setup you use all the time, @rickbass!?

Fender Dimension HH... 18-volt onboard preamp, three-band active EQ... were they all boosted?

 

[Wicked G]

Well I would buy rather 1 cab and definitely head+cab rig. My budget is $1.6k-$1.8k. I played on class D amps before but they seems very weak. I just burn two of them (EBS Reidmar and Fender) and solid state amps seems brighter and more open sounding than this class D. And those amps just have strange bump in the mids which I don't like too much. I want clean but not crystal clear sound. But maby GK is different in that way so my question is what's the difference in sound between MB and MBF series ? Of course except tubes on preamp in MBF, etc. And when it comes to RB series - 700 RB or 1001 RB ? Well one cab is probably 8ohms so the power will be smaller. It's hard to choose If I have some roadies I will just buy a 2001RB and plug 2x412 to it and just shakin walls in the whole city but this rig must be small enough to carry that on my own without effort.

Wow, am I the only one that picked up on this? What do you mean you just burn two of them? I can picture blowing speakers much easier than burning an amp, much less 2 of them. And which Reidmar and which Fender?

I ask which Reidmar because if it is the 750, that amp is seriously powerful. If it is the 750 and that sounds weak to you then the 700rb II won't cut it either for you and I would then suggest the 1001rb II instead. If it is the smaller Reidmar then the 700rb II may still work for you.

 

[TonyP-]

Exactly... divide and conquer. Copy settings on all, from bass to pedals, then go simple in (flat) adding until you see the signal go 'hot', again.... is this the setup you use all the time, @rickbass!?

Fender Dimension HH... 18-volt onboard preamp, three-band active EQ... were they all boosted?

That makes sense...I run a pretty hot signal to a variety of GK heads with no issue (however I have no extreme boosting from my on board EQ). Even when using my pigtronix which boost the subs I do see it. I can't say that about the JamHub.

You breath on that unit hard and it goes into red (great product concept but cheap and poopy components).

 

[Spidey2112]

That makes sense...I run a pretty hot signal to a variety of GK heads with no issue (however I have no extreme boosting from my on board EQ). Even when using my pigtronix which boost the subs I do see it. I can't say that about the JamHub.

You breath on that unit hard and it goes into red (great product concept but cheap and poopy components).

Sure seems like it, @tonyp...

If I'm allowed to assume the Fender Dimension has both passive AND active operation, I should be afforded the assumption that it may also have been in 'active' mode at the time of the incident.

Confunkalicious has spoken...

 

[rickbass1]

Exactly... divide and conquer. Copy settings on all, from bass to pedals, then go simple in (flat) adding until you see the signal go 'hot', again.... is this the setup you use all the time, @rickbass!?

Fender Dimension HH... 18-volt onboard preamp, three-band active EQ... were they all boosted?

Hi guys and firstly thanks for your response.
Just to clarify it's actually a fender standard USA dimension so the non active version. This is actually a change over head as the first one was faulty. The only pedal I was using yesterday was the tuner so I guess it's inapplicable. The bass was full volume on both volume knobs and tone varied re song (same VVT configuration as a jbass).
My main concern is if it will damage the speaker if it is clipping or can it be ignored and just trust what is being heard.
I was concerned yesterday at the gig so I swapped over to my mb200 backup head which I pretty well ran flat (Tones virtually @ 12oclock) with volume between 12-3 oclock and this was all I needed to get me over the line running into an 8ohm GK neo 212. Only mention this to give indication to the overall volume of performance, a cosy Sunday afternoon session with 80-100 patrons.
I'll also get back to the store today and troubleshoot it out with them as well. Meanwhile thanks again for any input, much appreciated.

 

[Spidey2112]

It's a fender standard dimension

... and back to the drawing board.

Pedals? Did you try a different bass into the same head?

Maybe, left foot firmly planted on the ground, and right in the air?

 

[Stevorebob]

Hi guys and firstly thanks for your response.
Just to clarify it's actually a fender standard USA dimension so the non active version. This is actually a change over head as the first one was faulty. The only pedal I was using yesterday was the tuner so I guess it's inapplicable. The bass was full volume on both volume knobs and tone varied re song (same VVT configuration as a jbass).
My main concern is if it will damage the speaker if it is clipping or can it be ignored and just trust what is being heard.
I was concerned yesterday at the gig so I swapped over to my mb200 backup head which I pretty well ran flat (Tones virtually @ 12oclock) with volume between 12-3 oclock and this was all I needed to get me over the line running into an 8ohm GK neo 212. Only mention this to give indication to the overall volume of performance, a cosy Sunday afternoon session with 80-100 patrons.
I'll also get back to the store today and troubleshoot it out with them as well. Meanwhile thanks again for any input, much appreciated.

The clip light goes on before the pre is clipped — it's a warning that you're near to clip. If the light is intermittent, nothing to be concerned about. If it's steady, you'll likely clip the preamp. I'm no tech, but as I understand clipping the pre shouldn't damage the speaker but could cause some ugly distortion.

 

[Spidey2112]

The clip light goes on before the pre is clipped — it's a warning that you're near to clip. If the light is intermittent, nothing to be concerned about. If it's steady, you'll likely clip the preamp. I'm no tech, but as I understand clipping the pre shouldn't damage the speaker but could cause some ugly distortion.

If the head is clipping, isn't the concern with the source? Unless the monitoring circuit is defective on the head itself...

... did you press the pad switch, and if so, did it eliminate the clipping?

 

[Anemic_SluG]

If the head is clipping, isn't the concern with the source? Unless the monitoring circuit is defective on the head itself...

... did you press the pad switch, and if so, did it eliminate the clipping?

Also are you running bass to amp? Or is there some pedals in between?

 

[Spidey2112]

Also are you running bass to amp? Or is there some pedals in between?

OP said he was only using a tuner, between bass and amp...

... I'm calling the amp, especially if pressing the pad switch does nothing to alleviate symptom. I think OP also said he finished gig with an MB200, with zero clipping, so...

 

[rickbass1]

OP said he was only using a tuner, between bass and amp...

... I'm calling the amp, especially if pressing the pad switch does nothing to alleviate symptom. I think OP also said he finished gig with an MB200, with zero clipping, so...

I didn't actually press the pad switch as it was a non active bass but my issue is it's clipping solidly even before 9.00 where other amps I've used don't clip barely before 12.00. So yep seems back to shop.

 

[Spidey2112]

I didn't actually press the pad switch as it was a non active bass but my issue is it's clipping solidly even before 9.00 where other amps I've used don't clip barely before 12.00. So yep seems back to shop.

At least you had a backup, to satisfy, 'better safe than sorry', right? Glad things went well with the gig, and hope the shop resolves the issue... if you think about it, please check back in with the fix.

 

[Stevorebob]

I didn't actually press the pad switch as it was a non active bass but my issue is it's clipping solidly even before 9.00 where other amps I've used don't clip barely before 12.00. So yep seems back to shop.

Your amp settings have nothing to do with the clip light. It indicates the input is clipping. Only what's on the bass-end of the amp's 1/4" input jack affects the input clip light. Try adjusting your bass volume.

 

[Kro]

Your amp settings have nothing to do with the clip light. It indicates the input is clipping. Only what's on the bass end of the amp's 1/4" input jack affects the input clip light. Try adjusting your bass volume.

Exactly, just so that this is clear @rickbass1 , you could have "volume" set full off and it wouldn't change anything. The clip light only applies to input itself - which may be different than other amps that you've used in the past.

 

[bassmike2010]

The clip light goes on before the pre is clipped — it's a warning that you're near to clip. If the light is intermittent, nothing to be concerned about. If it's steady, you'll likely clip the preamp. I'm no tech, but as I understand clipping the pre shouldn't damage the speaker but could cause some ugly distortion.

Square sine wave into the speaker?

 

[Kro]

Square sine wave into the speaker?

My understanding, completely derived from reading information produced by those much smarter than me appears to indicate that clipping doesn't create square waves like one might expect, and even then square waves don't appear to be all that terrible on principal for speakers as long as the power is still within the realm of what can be safely reproduced. Clipping does apparently create lots of high frequency power that can overload higher frequency drivers, but again - my understanding is that that type of of HF distortion would be pretty noticeable (as in sound really, really bad). Hence the GK horn management system I guess.

 

[bassdrummer]

I know I'm late to this party, and I've had this amp for about three years, but can I join:
View attachment 3003530

Nice mini stack. I love mine. Portable, powerful, and versatile. Welcome!