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Gene Simmons LoBue Tribute Build

#441
bassgod76 said:
I was originally going to use my top bearing Freud bit, but the angle of the neck prohibits me from mounting the template to the underside of the headstock.
Click to expand...

You put the pattern on the front of the headstock and use a pattern bit with a top bearing. That's how I always do it.

Either the router rides on the pattern, or you can do it on a router table with the pattern riding against the table.
 
#442
SGD Lutherie said:
You put the pattern on the front of the headstock and use a pattern bit with a top bearing. That's how I always do it.

Either the router rides on the pattern, or you can do it on a router table with the pattern riding against the table.
Click to expand...

If you place the pattern on the front of the headstock, contending with the angled neck would be an issue.

My plan, attach the pattern to the front of the headstock, but use a bottom bearing bit. This way, the neck is off the table. Make sense?
 
#443
bassgod76 said:
If you place the pattern on the front of the headstock, contending with the angled neck would be an issue.

My plan, attach the pattern to the front of the headstock, but use a bottom bearing bit. This way, the neck is off the table. Make sense?
Click to expand...

Just hold the face of the headstock/pattern down to the table.

Because the head is angled back, the rest of the neck is up off the table. The bearing is on the shank side of the bit, so it rides on the pattern.

I usually just clamp the neck in a vice, and use a hand held router (because I didn't have a router table, but I do now), and once again put the pattern on the front of the head with screws where the tuners are gong to go, and then use a pattern bit with a top mounted bearing.

I tried to find an image, and this shows shaping a tele neck with the pattern against the table, so just imagine it's just the head, and the neck is angled up. If you want, you can build a support for the neck.

DSC05358.jpg
 
#445
bassgod76 said:
Am I wrong by saying a top bearing bit is one where the bearing is not at the tip of the bit? I think we mean the same thing, but I'm using wrong terminology.
Click to expand...

Top is by the router collet. Bottom is near the tip. This is assuming he orientation for a hand held router. Bottom bearing bits are called flush trim bits. Pattern bits have the bearing on the top. Flush trim bots are also very handy, and you can get them in smaller diameters.

10653_5F00_rightbit.jpg_2D00_300x0.jpg


So, with that cleared up, use a TOP bearing bit. Put the pattern on the front of the peghead. The router rides on the pattern. The bearing follows the pattern and does not cut it, but the end of the bit is cutting the peghead wood.

If you are using a router table, expose enough of the bit so the bearing rides on the pattern, which is against the table top. The rest of the neck will angle up.
 
#446
bassgod76 said:
I did do a paint mock up of the first headstock template. Let me know if it is correct looking.
photo_zpsbc87afb5.jpg
Click to expand...

Headstock looks good. But here's a picture of gene and the lobue; notice the headstock shape. it looks more square-ish and the white pin strip is made for it to look rounded off.
Maybe it's before he had it rounded off. But this is just my opinion. Whatever you do with the headstock shape, it's still a lobue tribute and it looks great.

bassgod76 said:
I also scored a deal on a $40 beater. I had some spare pickus and parts laying around, so I slapped some new strings on, adjusted the neck and action, and now it rocks pretty hard!
Before:
photo_zpsc596f8d2.jpg


After:
photo_zpsb79dada2.jpg


I still want to refinish it, but haven't decided on a color. Maybe surf green?
Click to expand...

I think any color would be good as long as you get rid of the black/white scheme :D
 

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#447
Andii Syckz said:
Headstock looks good. But here's a picture of gene and the lobue; notice the headstock shape. it looks more square-ish and the white pin strip is made for it to look rounded off.
Maybe it's before he had it rounded off. But this is just my opinion. Whatever you do with the headstock shape, it's still a lobue tribute and it looks great.



I think any color would be good as long as you get rid of the black/white scheme :D
Click to expand...

Is the headstock top too rounded? How are the sides?
 
#448
SGD Lutherie said:
Top is by the router collet. Bottom is near the tip. This is assuming he orientation for a hand held router. Bottom bearing bits are called flush trim bits. Pattern bits have the bearing on the top. Flush trim bots are also very handy, and you can get them in smaller diameters.

10653_5F00_rightbit.jpg_2D00_300x0.jpg


So, with that cleared up, use a TOP bearing bit. Put the pattern on the front of the peghead. The router rides on the pattern. The bearing follows the pattern and does not cut it, but the end of the bit is cutting the peghead wood.

If you are using a router table, expose enough of the bit so the bearing rides on the pattern, which is against the table top. The rest of the neck will angle up.
Click to expand...

Yes, we meant the same thing, but I lack the knowledge for the proper names of these bits.
 
#451
What a great build of my favorite bass he ever played. I always thought that single pickup which seems to be in the sweetspot gave his tone a serious grind and punch that basses following the Laboe never had.

Nice work already !!!!!!!!!!! Sorry I don't have anything helpful to add !
 
#453
Andii Syckz said:
in regards of the headstock, i think the template you have is great. it's not to box looking nor is it too round. it's just right in between what gene did to the headstock during the time he had it. Keep the headstock as you have it now. it looks great.
Click to expand...

Okay. I do appreciate ANY & ALL feedback. As you can see, I'm learning as I go.
 
#455
Want to know any ******** detail of anything KISS related? Ask the good folks of kissfaq.com. I posted my headstock image and questioned how close I was to the original. I'm close, but have to do some slight shaping on the top of the headstock.
Headstock2_zpsba78ba58.jpg
 
#457
Looking good BG! Looks like you are working things out as you go. I haven't really been keeping up lately since I've been super swamped at work and then our landlord has decided to sell the house we rent, so I've been trying to find a place and pack etc. on short notice. I just read the thread.

Personally I would shape the headstock as Dave suggests and I would use the router table. It's just easier in my opinion. Just make sure you keep it flat to the table and don't accidentally let the heel end drop. I did that and ruined it. I ended up making a jig to support the heel end as I routed the headstock.

I was never able to find any really good, clear pics of the headstock but I always suspected there was some kind of shaping to it, just couldn't figure out what it was. Usually, the headstock is cut off in most pics. These are the best yet.

As you can see in the 2nd pic the "binding" is not an even thickness all the way around. It is thicker in the corners, making the black face of the headstock look rounded which is why it looks like that in most of the old, blurry, grainy blown up pictures that I have.

I think the size is correct. The upper corners need to be sharper, and then obviously there is the detail on the top. Also I see now that I made a mistake on the placement of the E and G tuners. I think they need to be move up a bit. A and D placement looks fine.

Looks like there are a couple of dings right on the top edge. You can see them in both pics. Thought it was part of the detail at first but I think not.
 
#459
I had a few hours to sneak out of the house while the wife was at the Taylor Swift concert.

First, I went through my dad's router tool box to see what he had. I was able to find these.
photo_zps3a56e648.jpg


Looking closer, I noticed that the bearings on these bits really overhung the bit. :-/
photo_zps4281d178.jpg


I went to Home Depot to buy some .75" MDF and to see if they had any pattern bits. They did, and it had a bearing the same size as the bit!
photo_zps74b5237c.jpg


So I went back to my folks' house to do some preliminary testing. I was primarily concerned about the corner of the neck pocket following the neck heel.

Positioning for a improvised pocket.
photo_zps8dec91c6.jpg


After the first pass.
photo_zps4e23dd64.jpg


While disassembling that stupid collar bit, I noticed this small wooden box next to my dad's router tool box. I opened it and found this! Now I can return the $22 bit I bought at Depot! I love saving money!
photo_zps70970d7b.jpg


The only issue with this longer bit is that I have to use the shorter bits to remove the majority of the material. Need to get it down so the log bit bearing will roll against the template.
photo_zps22669b11.jpg


You ever hear the phrase, "work smarter, not harder"? These bits are so much better thn that awful collar crap I had.

This long bit has the same size bearing as the bit. It cut like butter, and it was flush with he template.
photo_zps549ceb96.jpg

photo_zps90cb9c8c.jpg


The big question was, "Is this corner tight enough to fit the neck heel?"
It is!!!!!
photo_zpsa6991125.jpg
 
#460
For bulk material removal inside a pocket or cavity, a forstner bit is a better idea. They are faster and cheaper than router bits. I use a 3/4" Ryobi forstner bit I got at Home Depot for most of my hogging out. It cost about $4. If you use the router bit for the whole cavity, it will dull and wear the bit prematurely. Good bits are expensive, so I think it's worth using cheap forstner bits instead.

You can use the forstner and drill press (or hand drill if that's what you have) to remove the most of the wood inside a future pocket. Then you just attach the template and clean up the hole with the bearing bit.
 

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