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Gene Simmons LoBue Tribute Build

#741
bassgod76 said:
Man that sucks.

Well, I guess that will buy me time to work on my Dynasty suit...

Did you sand it in between coats?
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I only bothered to sand out (very lightly) one major drip that occurred in one of the clear coat layers. Other than that I just sprayed the paint and let it sit for 30 minutes before laying another coat over it, then I leveled everything after it sat and cured completely.

Maybe sanding between coats would reduce the amount of leveling needed in the polishing stage, but from what I read it wasn't necessary; the paint layers kind of melt together when you put a new coat on, so there is no worrying about sanding through one layer of paint and getting witness lines. But there still is some worrying to be done about sanding through to the wood! :p
 
#742
Neek said:
I only bothered to sand out (very lightly) one major drip that occurred in one of the clear coat layers. Other than that I just sprayed the paint and let it sit for 30 minutes before laying another coat over it, then I leveled everything after it sat and cured completely.

Maybe sanding between coats would reduce the amount of leveling needed in the polishing stage, but from what I read it wasn't necessary; the paint layers kind of melt together when you put a new coat on, so there is no worrying about sanding through one layer of paint and getting witness lines. But there still is some worrying to be done about sanding through to the wood! :p
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How many coats of primer/sealer, color coat, and clear did you shoot before letting it sit for a month?

sanding in between coats is what caused me some impression marks. Good to know that all that wet sanding can wait until after all spraying.
 
#743
bassgod76 said:
How many coats of primer/sealer, color coat, and clear did you shoot before letting it sit for a month?

sanding in between coats is what caused me some impression marks. Good to know that all that wet sanding can wait until after all spraying.
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I used the reranch white primer, maybe two or three light layers, just enough till there was no wood grain showing through. I used most of the can of reranch seafoam green color, it took a few coats to cover up all the white and get an even color all around. Then an entire can of the clear lacquer. I was terrified of sanding through the paint so I might have gone a little overboard on the number of layers (and also controlling the overspray on rattlecans is a skill I'm still trying to master, so I'm sure I wasted a fair amount).

If I could do anything different on that build, I would skip the white primer. The alder I used didn't have much grain so I feel like the paint alone would have covered it completely. Also the primer was very difficult to spray on smooth, a lot of cracks and a few bubbles appeared in the paint that ended up having to be sanded and re coated. But as a disclaimer, I really don't know what the results would be if the primer stage is skipped, I just got frustrated with that part of the painting. :hmm:
 
#744
I may just use my local shop for nitro paint, so I can use my sprayer.
I had them tint the sealer/primer black, so I didn't have to battle covering.

I think my paint would've been good if I didn't try buffing and wet sanding a few days after spray.
 
#747
bassgod76 said:
I think because nitro has always been associated with the most desirable finish?
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Not in my opinion. Urethane is more durable, builds faster, drys over night, cant be damaged by a case or guitar stand, doesnt get sticky when its hot, looks just as good a stays looking good longer. I apply it just as thin as nitro so it doesnt feel like a thick plastic coating


I have completely gotten away from using any kind of nitro
 
#748
Hopkins said:
Not in my opinion. Poly is more durable, builds faster, drys over night, cant be damaged by a case or guitar stand, looks just as good a stays looking good longer.

I have completely gotten away from using any kind of nitro
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That is a thought. Some say that nitro allows the instrument to breathe, but I wonder if that is splitting hairs?
 
#753
bassgod76 said:
Do you sand in between sprays?

How long until it can be handled?
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Without any set backs I can completely finish a bass in four days with the urethane. I spray a coat of clear to finsh the wood and let it dry over night. The next day I dry sand it level with 220 grit and spray another coat of clear. The next day I wet sand it level with 400 grit. Then I spray the last coat which is the color coat. The next day I wet sand starting with 600 or 800 grit through 3000 grit. Then I polish it.

Each coat consist of a light tack coat followed by a full coat about 10 mins later. The bass is wiped down with grease and was remover after every sanding.

After spraying I hang the piece and dont touch it for about 12 hours
 
#756
bassgod76 said:
Color coat, last? Why?

Grease? Why?
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The color coat is last because I use a single stage paint, that doesnt need a clear, and I think it looks better with the pigment being in the top layer instead of under a coat of clear. It also keeps the thickness of the finish to a minimum. I use the clear as the sealer because its hard, builds fast, dries fast and is compatible with the color coat. Also with a clear sealer, down the line if the paint gets worn down past the color coat, there isnt an ugly layer of white or grey primer showing through, just wood.

I use grease and wax remover to clean any oils from my hands, and any sanding dust from the body. The solvents dry with no residue and wont harm the finish.
 

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