Does that mean that in case of a tube failure I won't be able to run the amp solid state only?
I don't really care for the peamp tube but I figured I could just 'ignore' it by isolating it from the signal path. That doesn't seem possible then.
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Genz-Benz Shuttle Megathread
- Thread starter Michael Vee
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Does that mean that in case of a tube failure I won't be able to run the amp solid state only?
I don't really care for the peamp tube but I figured I could just 'ignore' it by isolating it from the signal path. That doesn't seem possible then.
I'd like to know where the eq points for the bass and treble have been set. Naturally, as the mids have parametric thing going on, I'm not concerned about the mid control.
I love the mute switch, parametric mids and lightweight of this amp.
Also, any idea what retail price these will have in the North American market?
I love the mute switch, parametric mids and lightweight of this amp.
Also, any idea what retail price these will have in the North American market?
Aged- excellent answer. I did already know it's a tube preamp, and not SS.
I guess the bottom line is that there is no right way to set the channel volume, other than maybe run it as high as possible without causing distortion. Or just setting it to 11 or 12 o'clock and fuhgettin' about it.
See, I thought there might be a way to do this using the signal light in the Master section. It seems that the signal light needs to be pretty solidly lit while playing, and not flashing a lot. If it's flashing, then maybe the channel volume needs to go up to supply more signal to the amp section. Is there any validity to this idea?
* * *
On a different note, I just heard from J.D. at Corner. He said they still don't have 6.0 heads in stock, but hope to in mid-February. They are getting quite a few pre-orders in, and he advised anyone who wants to pre-order to get crackin'. They have a good deal going for those who order both the 6.0 and the carry bag, which I probably shouldn't mention here, but you can find out by calling or emailing J.D.
I guess the bottom line is that there is no right way to set the channel volume, other than maybe run it as high as possible without causing distortion. Or just setting it to 11 or 12 o'clock and fuhgettin' about it.
See, I thought there might be a way to do this using the signal light in the Master section. It seems that the signal light needs to be pretty solidly lit while playing, and not flashing a lot. If it's flashing, then maybe the channel volume needs to go up to supply more signal to the amp section. Is there any validity to this idea?
* * *
On a different note, I just heard from J.D. at Corner. He said they still don't have 6.0 heads in stock, but hope to in mid-February. They are getting quite a few pre-orders in, and he advised anyone who wants to pre-order to get crackin'. They have a good deal going for those who order both the 6.0 and the carry bag, which I probably shouldn't mention here, but you can find out by calling or emailing J.D.
Torin-
These aren't the MSRPs, but Corner's prices are:
$699 for the 6.0 head
$49 for the carry bag
Don't know what the retail is on the footswitch, maybe Roger will jump in here.
$49 seems a bit steep for the carry bag, IMHO. The Neo-Pak bags could be gotten for $29, and they were bigger!
That's the list price on the bag. It'll probably go lower as they become available in stores.
That's the best way to think about a tube pre. The old Mesa MPulse2000 was a similar design to the 1200/750, with a fully featured SS pre and a fully featured tube pre. They clarified the issue being discussed here by including an input clip light on the SS pre, so that you could set it 'optimally' for the best signal to noise ratio without clipping (which you would not want to do in a SS pre), but then having no 'clip' input indicator on the tube pre, since one of the points of having a tube pre is pushing it a touch to break-up a bit if you so choose.
Edit: For the 600, it's cool that they have a tube pre gain control and then another volume control to adjust the level of the signal into the EQ section and the rest of the amp. I'm not sure if there's one or not, but a clip indicator positioned AFTER the second gain control would be very helpful... so you would use the pregain control to generate the amount of grit/growl you want, but then use the clip indicator to adjust the secondary gain to optimize that signal into the EQ, etc. As always, you would then use the master to control the volume.
I hope so. $49 is what J.D. told me in his email this morning. I need to call him this afternoon and get the story direct.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,062
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- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Correct, but the circuit design and mechanical mounting of the tube is such that a very long life is expected. It's the same basic circuit that the GBE-750/1200 and NeoPak uses and wh have had no issues with tube reliability at all. I would expect a 10+ year life realisticly.
Since it's usually what I gig with, my Neo-pak has taken a few nasty hits while inside the carrying bag. Once it slid off my cart in a parking lot, about a 3 foot drop. It hit hard enough to make me cringe. But it fired right up with no issues at all with the tube. I've had it and the 1200 for almost a year, and they still sound great.
Jason.. completed.
Channel volume was somewhere in the aforementioned 11-12 o'clock range when the clip/limit light starting flashing.
I just about ripped my head off doing this! Whew! The N-P is a loud head. I was playing my XZ-2 with all EMG active electronics and roundwounds, and running the N-P into the Dr.Bass BL1260. (See my avatar.. that's the setup.) This is such a good sounding setup. I did have the active switch engaged, to reduce the input gain because of the EMG active electronics.
I'll also try the experiment with my other basses, but I suspect it'll still come out the same. I guess I'll just stick to the 12 o'clock setting, maybe goose it a bit if I need more punch.
I just noticed that the clip/limit light will still flash with the limiter engaged.
Let me say this - This IS relevant to the Shuttle Megathread in that Shuttle 6.0 owners will also need to know how to set the gain structure, since it's essentially the same preamp as the Neo-Pak. A difference is that the Shuttle doesn't have a defeat for the limiter.
"""I was really close to finding a do-it-all combo with the Roland Cube""""
Also tried it and was worried it was just barely too underpowered
Steve---any idea if that Roland cube could in theory be driven by an external amp? What I'm suggesting is if the cube (with a modification) could be run as a cab by itself by disconnecting the speaker from the internal 100w amp and driving the speaker with another amp.
The key is whether the speaker itself can handle more than 100w. Also, whether the speaker is only designed to be driven by that amp. I mention that because the combo supposedly has some active electronics that maximize the loudness of the unit.
I would love to be able to use the cube alone in certain situations and if more headroom is needed--disable the amp and use an external amp to drive it with slightly more power.
Often on these combos--the speakers are rated for more power handling than the amp puts out. In theory, even a speaker rated for 100RMS can be driven by 200w amp safely (with more headroom) as long as you keep it reasonable.
Another question is whether the cab part of the Roland cube would gain any loudness by driving it with more power. I do notice the Roland cube seems to compress fairly early at the low end--where any further increases in gain/level result in no volume increase. This limiting happens at a point where the speaker does not sound like it is maxed out--to me.
Also tried it and was worried it was just barely too underpowered
Steve---any idea if that Roland cube could in theory be driven by an external amp? What I'm suggesting is if the cube (with a modification) could be run as a cab by itself by disconnecting the speaker from the internal 100w amp and driving the speaker with another amp.
The key is whether the speaker itself can handle more than 100w. Also, whether the speaker is only designed to be driven by that amp. I mention that because the combo supposedly has some active electronics that maximize the loudness of the unit.
I would love to be able to use the cube alone in certain situations and if more headroom is needed--disable the amp and use an external amp to drive it with slightly more power.
Often on these combos--the speakers are rated for more power handling than the amp puts out. In theory, even a speaker rated for 100RMS can be driven by 200w amp safely (with more headroom) as long as you keep it reasonable.
Another question is whether the cab part of the Roland cube would gain any loudness by driving it with more power. I do notice the Roland cube seems to compress fairly early at the low end--where any further increases in gain/level result in no volume increase. This limiting happens at a point where the speaker does not sound like it is maxed out--to me.
So if they 210 combo would be even bulkier, why are you even thinking about it? Oh wait, I forget. We all have GAS!That's why I'm thinking about a Shuttle, even though I have absolutely no need for one!
Seriously though, Steve. Perhaps the Shuttle 6.0/112 combo would fit you well? A bit lighter, a bit smaller, a bit punchier, and a bit less fat on the bottom. Or, get the 6.0/110 rig for all your small stuff, and then keep your Neox 112 to put under that for bigger cover gigs. That should be slammin'.
I have thought about the 6.0 /112 combo as well. The gains - other than the coolness factor - would be minimal. As you noted a bit of everything, but probably not enough to really be worth the expense. My Neo/112 is basically paid for. I don't have $1,200 laying around for a new combo, and the Neos don't fetch much used.
All in all, I'm probably better off with what I have, I just won't look as cool as all you Shutle users.
Steve, you ain't alone on being on the fence. I'm contemplating the Shuttle 6 jump, but after talking turkeys on the price, I'm looking at $820 for the bag and sales tax, not counting shipping. I'm just wondering if the Shuttle 6 would really present enough of an improvement over the Neo-Pak, which is an impressive little head, to justify this early-adopter outlay. Considering the Neo-Paks are going for around $425 these days, that's a healthy net outlay.
I think the N-P is an attractive unit!
any info on the voicing of the 112 that comes with the Shuttle 6-0--12T combo?
I would be interested in knowing the details:
sensitivity/ RMS and voicing (hifi/middy/etc)
Wonder what the differences would be to a Schroeder Mini 12---they are about the same size--the GB a little bigger (but less deep) to accomodate tweeter/horn
I would be interested in knowing the details:
sensitivity/ RMS and voicing (hifi/middy/etc)
Wonder what the differences would be to a Schroeder Mini 12---they are about the same size--the GB a little bigger (but less deep) to accomodate tweeter/horn
Cool! Your input gain was fine, so here's what I would deduce from this. You fed the power amp a healthy signal, which is evidenced by the fact that you didn't have to push the output to get it to clip. Any well made amp should have some room left to dial up the output if you're feeding it a good signal. That extra space is there for those occasions when you can't, for whatever reason. But if you have to turn the output way down, chances are you are sending a signal that is too hot.
What you can do now, if you wish, is play around with the two knobs and see if you notice anything different. Bump up the channel volume a dial or so, and turn the master down, and vice versa, avoiding extremes (or test those two if you want). See if you notice any differences. Chances are you won't notice too much.
Sorry to keep beating this dead horse (no pun or any personal commentary intended!
), but I want to be sure I'm doing this correctly.I should turn the channel volume up until I just start to get a bit of the red light coming on, when digging in, and that should determine my pregain setting. And if in my case, this requires the channel volume to be at 75% or so, then that is OK. But just don't do it as a default without engaging in the process I just described.
Or, are you saying that one should not do it in any case?
This thread is getting pretty large, so this may be a repetative question (sorry)............Whose gonna be carrying these? Are they in stock now?............I would like to get the 3.0 (I think). Some of you mentioned getting deals on the Neopack now. Who still has them, are they still available?
I just got a GBE-1200, it is probably the best bass amp I have ever owned, but it is way too much for me
..........Might hafta downsize a little..................
I just got a GBE-1200, it is probably the best bass amp I have ever owned, but it is way too much for me
..........Might hafta downsize a little..................I think the N-P is attractive as well. Really, the look of it is very cool. I am guessing I'll be playing my N-P and 112 rig for a while. I am playing a MIM fretless right now, but would like to get an EUB. I think that's probably a better use of my $$ right now.
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