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GHS Pressurewounds on Fretless Jazz?

#2
Not on a fretless jazz, but on my Warwick $$ Fretless 6 and Alien Acoustic Fretless 6 I have used Pressurewounds. Especially on the acoustic, they bring out some extra character and nuances that I think would be either lost with flats, or completely overdone with full-on rounds.
 
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#4
When I had these on my fretless Jazz (tokai jazz sound) I thought they lacked something that the flats I had earlier, TIs, had, and when having roundwounds on it, often steel like DR Hi-beams for example I thought the pressurewounds lacked something they had too.
For, it was too little of the sound I was looking for no matter what I was looking for. They are pretty high tension for fretless in my opinion too, but that's all according to taste as usual.
I never learned to love the windings, or how to say... the way they feel on your fingers the way they are wound. Some people love it tho'!
I think that if you like the feel they would be great for any bass, but I would prefer them on a fretted, if you want that sound.
 
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#6
JustForSport said:
I like more flexible strings on fretless: round-cores or TI style flexibility- they oscillate for longer.
Pressure Wound round-cores (1st) or other Alloy 52 round-cores (2nd) would probably be really nice.
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You can always go to a lighter gauge of Pressurewounds (which will more than likely have a smaller core) to allow for more oscillation.

I have some other bass strings in the works right now, but can add those to the list. Personally, I'd like to get a longer winding length on our current Pressurewounds first, and then see about a round core.
 
#7
Jon Moody said:
You can always go to a lighter gauge of Pressurewounds (which will more than likely have a smaller core) to allow for more oscillation.

I have some other bass strings in the works right now, but can add those to the list. Personally, I'd like to get a longer winding length on our current Pressurewounds first, and then see about a round core.
Click to expand...

Lighter gauge is one way to help, sure.

As far as longer winding length, do you mean in addition to the current length, or instead of?
There are some strings marketed (not GHS) that I wanted to try, but the winding length (38") is too long for top load bridges and 4-in-line or most 3 x 2 or 3 x 3 headstocks w/o the outer wrap having to go around the B or E post, and a lesser percentage of basses now have the large diameter Fender-style posts- so those strings are eliminated from consideration except for 34" thru-body or 35" installs.
IME, 36.5"- 37" winding length fits most 34" basses w/o that problem, and 38" will fit most thru-body 34" and top load 35" basses.
 
#8
JustForSport said:
As far as longer winding length, do you mean in addition to the current length, or instead of?
Click to expand...

It would be instead of. I'd like to get them to a 37.25" winding length, which works on most 34" scale basses (top load or thru-body) and most top load 35" scale basses (the silk just clears the nut). Our Round Core Bass Boomers are that winding length, so I'm waiting to see how that part is received before making any other recommendations.
 
#9
I'd better buy a few sets now, then before they change, 'cause more than 37" B sometimes goes on the post.
A couple 35" scales with staggered bridges (longer to the B) are 36.6" ball to tuner side of the nut.
 
#10
JustForSport said:
I'd better buy a few sets now, then before they change, 'cause more than 37" B sometimes goes on the post.
A couple 35" scales with staggered bridges (longer to the B) are 36.6" ball to tuner side of the nut.
Click to expand...

It won't be an immediate thing, if it happens. Having tested ad nauseum a number of winding lengths, 37.25" winding length seems to be a much better fit than just 36.5" (which we seem to be the increasing minority in keeping that).
 

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