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GK 1001RB II amp repair - help!
- Thread starter chowderhead1962
- Start date
Hmm, if I'm seeing it right it might because you pulled off the base along with the connector.
I ran
This photo is helpful. It "looks" like the wired portion of the tweeter and woofer connector sits closer to the interior of the board? You wouldn't happen to know if the edges facing the outside of the board have ridges or are smooth would you?My memory is that they were a similar style... but I also only ever detached them from the power amp board.
You pulled off both the male connector and the female base. The male part is supposed to be able to be pulled out unless I'm super mistaken, just like the way it connects to the power amp board.
I believe the smooth side should be on the inside of the board, and the side with the notch/ridge on the outside - just like the illustration on the board itself indicates.
See this image for an example with the empty female bases still attached.
The plugs are still mated to the bases. The bases should have stayed on the board.
That connector you are holding is actually two pieces. you pulled it off as one. see the gap?
I just ran continuity checks on the jack. I'm assuming I just insert the red probe in the jack and the black to the soldered joint above correct? It looks like I get good readings from all of the effects jacks, but the input jack I just replaced doesn't seem to give me much of a reading on the back two pins, and the front ones are minor. If it's soldered in place properly (assuming it is), would this just be bad connection of the soldered joints or could it be something with the board or both?
Either take it to a tech or do what I did when I had issues with my GK. Send it back to the factory and have them go through everything and fix it. It's not cheap, but you'll get the amp back in pristine condition.
Could be damaged contact points and cold solder joints.
Looks okish and could work. But for the most part not very good
Looks like cold solder joints and goopey gunk in the joints. Melted solder mask or old dirty tip
You're running into the problem where you keep having to apply heat to remove the current solder and get rid of the black goop. To get nice clean contact pads.
Problem is you keep applying heat and your risk burning up traces.
Looks like it needs a cleanup. And you need to have a shiny shiny clean solder tip. When reapplying new solder.
Start with new clean tip. And clean it often with the wet sponge. Pretty much between every contact. And constantly reapply new solder when the tip is just sitting. The solder keeps it from going to oxcide which will happen within minutes.
Those connections working on the effects loop is pure miracle.
It's fine art. Of getting enough heat and then not torching thin metal traces. So the solder flows nice n shiny and clean. Larger metal taps of the jacks are physically larger need little more heat applied. Then soft swing to the traces and boom. Solder flow right in there.
Likewise no sandpapering and black goop on a old old tip. And other miscellaneous adventures of working with old abused tips.
With new tip and just iron running. It will oxidize from heat. Always need apply new pretty solder and constantly clean. That coating on the tip. Once it's been " cleaned" and sanded off or whatever methods used. It just ain't gonna work.
Sure it will make heat and melt the solder. But it's just enough to do damage. Tips gotta be super clean and apply alot of heat quickly.
Flow solder quick , then get outta there.
Looks okish and could work. But for the most part not very good
Looks like cold solder joints and goopey gunk in the joints. Melted solder mask or old dirty tip
You're running into the problem where you keep having to apply heat to remove the current solder and get rid of the black goop. To get nice clean contact pads.
Problem is you keep applying heat and your risk burning up traces.
Looks like it needs a cleanup. And you need to have a shiny shiny clean solder tip. When reapplying new solder.
Start with new clean tip. And clean it often with the wet sponge. Pretty much between every contact. And constantly reapply new solder when the tip is just sitting. The solder keeps it from going to oxcide which will happen within minutes.
Those connections working on the effects loop is pure miracle.
It's fine art. Of getting enough heat and then not torching thin metal traces. So the solder flows nice n shiny and clean. Larger metal taps of the jacks are physically larger need little more heat applied. Then soft swing to the traces and boom. Solder flow right in there.
Likewise no sandpapering and black goop on a old old tip. And other miscellaneous adventures of working with old abused tips.
With new tip and just iron running. It will oxidize from heat. Always need apply new pretty solder and constantly clean. That coating on the tip. Once it's been " cleaned" and sanded off or whatever methods used. It just ain't gonna work.
Sure it will make heat and melt the solder. But it's just enough to do damage. Tips gotta be super clean and apply alot of heat quickly.
Flow solder quick , then get outta there.
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Plug a guitar cable into the input jack. Measure from the unterminated plug on the other end of the guitar cable to the solder points.
It's looks like you used quite a bit of heat, so you may have ganked the new input jack.
I think it was around $325. But I had my power section replaced & the rest gone though. It was basically a new amp when I got it back.
I may go that route as well. So you called GK in Stockton and asked them about sending back to the factory?
Looks like you damage the trace on the PCB, and probably the thru-hole plating as well. You could try to reflow the solder, but always use the minimal amount of heat with a temperature controlled soldering station.
Check Youtube for desoldering. I prefer using the solder wick method.
Don't use the the cheap junk with just a solder handle and an electrical cord.
Full Compass sells the preamp board for under $100.
Check Youtube for desoldering. I prefer using the solder wick method.
Don't use the the cheap junk with just a solder handle and an electrical cord.
Full Compass sells the preamp board for under $100.
It doesn’t happen very often, but every once in a while I’m kinda happy that I’m not mechanically inclined.
