Double Bass Glue removal advice needed

[eh_train]

Hi,

I have started restoring a "Lewis and Sons Bottesini model" bass. It's a fully carved German shop bass, maybe 60 years old, and has the potential to be a nice instrument again - once I do a whole bunch of work to it.

It has had many crappy repairs in the past. The first I'm dealing with is the glue that was used to put the top back on. Really liberally used, and they glued the top on really crooked to boot.

I thought (hoped) it was yellow/carpenter's glue so that acetic acid (vinegar) would work very nicely as a solvent. No dice. I tried using a damp cloth and a steam iron, and nothing happened to the glue. Last, I soaked a chunk of glue (this bass has chunks of glue) into some Everclear and nothing happened. I may need to soak myself in Everclear next.

Please see the attached pic, and any advice/thoughts/speculations about how to dissolve this glue will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Paul (eh_train)

BTW, the top is off. Unfortunately, it only came off 80% clean. Plenty of combined glue and splinter pieces to deal with.

 

[Jeff Bonny]

I'm not a luthier but I can sharpen knives very well and know for sure I could get that off with a blade of some sort. I don't know if it's the fastest way but it seems quite doable with extremely sharp knives....there's not much that isn't.

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

Looks like Gorilla Glue...seeing lots of quality time with a chisel and a BFH in your future. Good luck.

 

[eh_train]

Looks like Gorilla Glue..."

I was afraid of that. Don't think I've had the pleasure of dealing with it before. I have been using my crappy chisels to knock off some of the many drips, etc. I'll have to refine my technique for the more sensitive areas!

Oh, and what's a BFH?

Jeff, I'll take your advice, thanks.

I was hoping there'd be a solvent, but I guess not. Or if there were a solvent, it'd probably be even weirder than the glue itself.

Cheers,

Paul

 

[Heifetzbass]

I was afraid of that. Don't think I've had the pleasure of dealing with it before. I have been using my crappy chisels to knock off some of the many drips, etc. I'll have to refine my technique for the more sensitive areas!

Oh, and what's a BFH?

Jeff, I'll take your advice, thanks.

I was hoping there'd be a solvent, but I guess not. Or if there were a solvent, it'd probably be even weirder than the glue itself.

Cheers,

Paul

Paul-

Yep, that's gorilla glue. Nasty stuff to work with. I think it means, big f'n hammer, but I would be careful with that! LOL!

Hope you're well!
Brian

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

Yup, Big F****** Hammer, and that crap laughs at knives, as I learned the hard way on a '51 Kay that had been Gorilla Glued by the previous owner. Sucks.

 

[neilG]

Gorilla Glue is polyurethane. Acetone is usually the go-to solvent to soften it but you'll need to really soak the area, so I don't know how much luck you'll have with that. A respirator and nitrile gloves are a must. Have you tried a little heat to soften the glue?

 

[eh_train]

Thanks, all, for your help.

Brian, I'll use a medium sized mallet instead of a BFH. Hope you're well as well!

Neil, living in Toronto I absolutely have to work inside for the next few months. So no acetone just now. I found this on a website, and it's proving to be true: "Cured glue can be removed with a chisel, scraper or sandpaper."

It's annoying that GG was used, but if I stay patient it's a task with a worthwhile outcome...

 

[robobass]

I don't think there's any solvent that will do what you need. Only option is a BFH, some good chisels, and most important, a really good sharpening setup. I'd invest in a slotted sharpening disc and use it often. The slots allow you to see the edge as you work, making the process fast and precise. I don't envy you. A lot of luthiers would take a pass on this job.

 

[tyb507]

Chip away!

 

[moles]

Not a luthier, not have I ever had to touch Gorilla glue...but if it's polyurethane, might some chemical paintstripper work? Circa 1850, Heritage - the kind of stuff that's safe to use on wood and hide glue. During the numerous bass refins I've done, I've been consistently surprised by a) the stuff those treatments burn through, and b) the stuff that they don't, but still soften enough to "help" things along.

 

[eh_train]

Well, the chipping away is going okay. But what a hassle!

I'll chalk this up as a one-time experience. Basses "fixed" with Gorilla Glue and / or epoxy may not be worth salvaging.

 

[Jeff Bonny]

I don't think there's any solvent that will do what you need. Only option is a BFH, some good chisels, and most important, a really good sharpening setup. I'd invest in a slotted sharpening disc and use it often. The slots allow you to see the edge as you work, making the process fast and precise. I don't envy you. A lot of luthiers would take a pass on this job.

Could you give more details on this setup? The blade geek in me wants to know.

 

[robobass]

Could you give more details on this setup? The blade geek in me wants to know.

There are several manufacturers making stuff like this. For a hobby version google: Work Sharp WS3000.
The slotted wheel must be purchased separately, and I imagine it can be used on other motors. When spinning you can actually see through the disc and hence the edge your grinding. My luthier has one, and can free-hand bring a bashed up chisel to perfection in just a few minutes.