Going through an NS-2

[Play that Fish]

Hi,

I just acquired an 86 Spector NS2 bass. It's been sitting for 12 years.
I have done nothing to it except paint the pickup screws, turned the truss rod 1/3 of a turn, and put 1 drop of 3-in-1 oil into each of the bridge height screws.

Before I set it all up, I would like to take off the bridge and tuning keys and polish them. I was going to go over the frets with fine steel wool and oil the rosewood fretboard. I wanted to polish the guitar while the hardware is off. I have done this before.

Do you think it will affect the value of the guitar negatively? I am pretty meticulous and expect no errors from my work.

Thanks for your input!

 

[BassCajon]

Very jealous. Cool score.

Not sure how often you've done this or if you are looking for this advice but if you wanted to go over the frets with steel wool, you'll want to put masking tape over the pickups and all small cavities because the steel fibers get everywhere, no matter what. This is why I hold the bass by the body outside (or over a garbage can if thats not an easy option) and scrub up and and down the board with the intention of cleaning the frets, going with the grain. Then i blast it all clean with a can of compressed air. just keep an eye that those steel wool fibers don't get in the wrong places. Once the bass is completely free of that stuff, you can then peel off the tape.

Are you looking to clean and oil the threads on the bridge adjustment screws? If the intonation is good, take a photo of where it sits before you dismantle the bridge.

 

[Play that Fish]

I was planning on using tape on the frets, typically I use painters tape. Seems to work well.

Thanks for the warning about the steel wool, I did know about that problem and will cover the pick ups with tape too.

Still wondering if it will affect the value of I do these things?

 

[BassCajon]

I was planning on using tape on the frets, typically I use painters tape. Seems to work well.

Thanks for the warning about the steel wool, I did know about that problem and will cover the pick ups with tape too.

Still wondering if it will affect the value of I do these things?

I meant to end with that.
It won't affect value as long as you don't mess anything up!

Yeah everything is generally pretty sealed up on that bass but tape over the pickup and over the space around it. dont remove the tape till all the wool dust is blown or wiped off of the bass. Look for it closely.

Also masking tape on the frets? I thought you were cleaning them.
I don't tape the board unless I'm filing frets. The steel wool is safe on the fingerboard itself because its very fine and will remove grime without removing material. (Though it will haze up a glossy maple fingerboard)

 

[ThomasTronics]

Hit me with the Doug Wimbish!!!
The best thing you can do it is if you are proficient at taking apart a bridge an pieces and re assembling them; than by all means this does not devalue the bass.
It need to play and play good, thats part 1!
If you are not okay with taking everything and "kinda" putting it back together than don't do it.
If it does need to basic TLC, it's worth taking it to a local shop and getting them to clean it up for $50 and you don't have not worries.

Post pictures???????

 

[Play that Fish]

Totally OK with taking it apart. I'll send pics!

 

[Old Garage-Bander]

Very jealous. Cool score.

Not sure how often you've done this or if you are looking for this advice but if you wanted to go over the frets with steel wool, you'll want to put masking tape over the pickups and all small cavities because the steel fibers get everywhere, no matter what. This is why I hold the bass by the body outside (or over a garbage can if thats not an easy option) and scrub up and and down the board with the intention of cleaning the frets, going with the grain. Then i blast it all clean with a can of compressed air. just keep an eye that those steel wool fibers don't get in the wrong places. Once the bass is completely free of that stuff, you can then peel off the tape.

Are you looking to clean and oil the threads on the bridge adjustment screws? If the intonation is good, take a photo of where it sits before you dismantle the bridge.

Watching with interest. Thanks for posting about steel wool use.
Is there something that would work in place of steel wool and not present the problem of little bits of steel getting everywhere? Anything in a Scotchbrite pad or high grit sandpaper for instance?

 

[BassCajon]

Watching with interest. Thanks for posting about steel wool use.
Is there something that would work in place of steel wool and not present the problem of little bits of steel getting everywhere? Anything in a Scotchbrite pad or high grit sandpaper for instance?

I tried the 3M super fine scotch pads, (the white ones) which were supposed to work but didn't for this purpose.
The 0000 steel wool comes apart less (somewhat) if you fold it up tight before using.
Compressed air in a can is great for cleanup and a tall can lasts awhile. Just only use small blasts of air of course.

So, no I havent found a substitute. And I can't really see sandpaper working as quickly and effectively here.

 

[BassCajon]

I bought a roll of higher quality Briwax 0000 steel wool which is supposed to shed less fibers. Not sure i could tell a difference though after using it.

 

[byacey]

@Old Garage-Bander
If you mask off the fretboard, use some automotive finish rubbing compound on a piece of felt . It'll polish the frets to a mirror finish and doesn't leave little bits of metal particles everywhere.

There is a German product called Autosol that works much the same.

 

[bobdabilder]

I use the felt pads on a dremel to shine up frets.

 

[byacey]

I use the felt pads on a dremel to shine up frets.

You still need an abrasive of some sort; felt by itself will mostly create lots of heat without much polishing action.

 

[Play that Fish]

The nut at the headstock is quite tarnished/corroded. I was thinking of pulling out the Dremel for that. I'm sure I probably have something in my kit to polish it up.

I have found that Simichrome is the best metal polish I have ever used, maybe I'll start with that first.

 

[bobdabilder]

That's not been my experience.

You still need an abrasive of some sort; felt by itself will mostly create lots of heat without much polishing action.

 

[BassCajon]

Of course the steel wool fibers seem like a bother but I've gotten used to dealing with it and they're easy enough to vacuum or blast.
If you need to do this cleaning indoors, after taping everything, you can hold the guitar upside down, headstock pointed down into a garbage can at least as wide as the guitar and steel wool the fretboard making the majority of the fibers fall into the can.

Of course, yes you can tape off the board and do it with felt and some rouge, or with a dremel fret polisher. Steel wool is
meant for a quick cleaning here and it looks great afterwards because it also cleans the board.

*Steel wool fibers can cause shorts in circuits which is why you want to guard everything from them.

The nut at the headstock is quite tarnished/corroded. I was thinking of pulling out the Dremel for that. I'm sure I probably have something in my kit to polish it up.

I have found that Simichrome is the best metal polish I have ever used, maybe I'll start with that first.

Also, steel wool will polish the nut. You probably don't need metal polish for that.

 

[Play that Fish]

Of course the steel wool fibers seem like a bother but I've gotten used to dealing with it and they're easy enough to vacuum or blast.
If you need to do this cleaning indoors, after taping everything, you can hold the guitar upside down, headstock pointed down into a garbage can at least as wide as the guitar and steel wool the fretboard making the majority of the fibers fall into the can.

Of course, yes you can tape off the board and do it with felt and some rouge, or with a dremel fret polisher. Steel wool is
meant for a quick cleaning here and it looks great afterwards because it also cleans the board.

*Steel wool fibers can cause shorts in circuits which is why you want to guard everything from them.

Also, steel wool will polish the nut. You probably don't need metal polish for that.

So no problem polishing the fretboard lightly with the steel wool? I've always avoided that.

 

[BassCajon]

None at all. Just follow the steps and avoid the finish with the steel wool and you're ok.
And you can scrub the fretboard until it looks clean, just go 100% with the grain. (edit: of course youll want to focus more on the frets), just blast or vacuum the fibers off right away.

 

[60bass]

Skip the steel wool and use this instead. This stuff is seriously good. Also as suggested Simichrome is great for polishing the frets as well. When I use Simichrome I always tape off the fretboard leaving the frets exposed With Gorgomyte on a rosewood board I don't.

Gorgomyte Fret And Fingerboard Conditioner

 

[Zooberwerx]

I use the felt pads on a dremel to shine up frets.

I use the felt rotary wheels on my Dremel and that inexplicable jeweler's rouge included with the kit. The stuff actually turns black as it mixes with the removed oxidation. If the frets are particularly discolored, I'll zap 'em with a micro mesh pad first.

Not sure why we're oiling the bridge screws, though. We kinda want them gummed-up to prevent inadvertent slippage...we've done whole threads on this.

Riis

 

[Play that Fish]

Here are some pics of the NS2 during and after...