The SKB HSC for the Baby Taylor needs a little of the foam removed around the tuning keys area to fit the GT MicroBass. Otherwise, it's a very good, very close fit.
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The SKB HSC for the Baby Taylor needs a little of the foam removed around the tuning keys area to fit the GT MicroBass. Otherwise, it's a very good, very close fit.
That's the one I have. It won't fit until you make room for the tuning keys. I was able to carefully remove the lining in that area, cut out enough of the hard foam then resecure the lining with double-sided mount tape.
It's the nature of the Thundergut strings. Otherwise, they could stick in the nut slot while tuning up.
Is it okay to rest the string you are tuning on the nut but not in a slot? Or do you have to pull it up and away from the surface of the fingerboard?
I wonder if the LaBella strings will be able to be tuned while resting in the slots and whether Goldtone would approve of or frown upon that difference in procedure.
I usually slide one of the fingers on my right hand under the string, and side it up towards the nut until the the string lifts out of the nut. Then turn the peg a bit, let go and check, and repeat. Not the most convenient tuning method, but it usually stays in tune very well, so I don't' have to fuss with it much after I tune up.
The La Bella white tapes are so smooth and slick that it probably won't be an issue, so long as the nut slots are wide enough (and they probably are).
I don't think Gold Tone officially approves of using any other strings, period.
Interesting that the lines where the frets would go (mine is a fretless model) are filled in but the place to put your fingers is dead-center in the middle of the "fret," right on the inlays, right? I find there's just the faintest bit of material sticking out on the edge of the fingerboard, but I'm not about to start sanding/steel wooling/brillo-padding a brand-new instrument ... am I?
I find that my "fretting" finger ends up just behind the fretlines in most cases, but your ears (plus maybe some help from the built-in tuner) should be your guide with fretless. One of the advantages of this really short scale is that intonation "corrections" usually amount to just rolling the tip of your finger a bit.
Inlaid fretlines are almost never _perfectly_ smooth, and almost never affect playability - especially with plastic/rubber or tapewound strings, IME. If yours ends up really needing radius sanding, I think it should be a warranty issue.
I'm not sure if some of these questions are jokes or not. 
1. As far as the pulling from the nut - I think you are free to come up with any technique you choose - as long as you don't let the Thundergut sit in the slot while tuning. This is not a Gold Tone thing. This is a Thundergut thing - on any instrument. You don't want those strings sticking in the nut slot - leading to - possible untimely death. Having said that, Thunderguts and Reds are absolutely, positively the best synthetic strings to use for micro basses, IMHO. A slam dunk over the Pahohohohoes, IMHO.
2. Gold Tone is very happy there are metal string alternatives on the way.
1. As far as the pulling from the nut - I think you are free to come up with any technique you choose
- as long as you don't let the Thundergut sit in the slot while tuning. This is not a Gold Tone thing. This is a Thundergut thing - on any instrument. You don't want those strings sticking in the nut slot - leading to - possible untimely death. Having said that, Thunderguts and Reds are absolutely, positively the best synthetic strings to use for micro basses, IMHO. A slam dunk over the Pahohohohoes, IMHO.2. Gold Tone is very happy there are metal string alternatives on the way.
I would personally consider it a non issue. But, if it was my bass, rather than ship it somewhere, or, pay for some local expensive work, I would very simply:
- Tape off the neck, leaving just the fretlines exposed.
- Do some light sanding myself.
- Since I was working on the neck, at that point, I'd probably then wipe some Minwax Wipe-On on the whole fretboard, which I have done to many basses in the past, but, that's just me.
Assume they are in earnest unless I explicitly say otherwise or put in a smiley. Fair enough? I feel like I'm getting very good and helpful answers here. If I start joking, it'll be things like "What's the best short-scale fretless bass for metal?"I'm not sure if some of these questions are jokes or not.
The G string seems to be stiffer and less lively than the other three. Is this possibly because it winds around its tuner post three-and-half-times (whereas the D is only two-and-a-half)? Should I think about cutting the length a bit?
Nope, the g string is stiffer than the others. I wouldn't worry about cutting it unless it starts to wrap around the nut at the base of the tuning peg.
I find myself wishing the solidbody models were available already. I don't mind the somewhat fat "acoustic" body when sitting, but when standing up the thinness of the solidbody sure would be nicer.
What kind of pick are you using? I tried some felt picks, but the pick on the rubber sting still felt sticky and awkward to me.
Just a regular plastic thin Fender pick. Works well when more "punch" and less "thud" is required.
One thing's for sure, this baby is *light* -- probably around 3 lbs. or so, a third of the weight of my Fender Jazz Bass, the latter of which is starting to trouble my achy neck and back.
