Grounding pots...yuck

[fookgub]

There seems to be a bit of conflict of opinion here. It probably won't settle the argument, but here's my take on shielding and grounding.

1. I always shield my electronics cavities. It makes a noticeable difference.

2. I always bring all signal grounds to a central point. This is the "star" grounding method, and it avoids ground loops. A ground loop is where there are two or more separate points used as ground. Although they are electrically connected to each other, there is finite resistance in the connection, meaning that the different grounds can have different potentials. Sometimes this is not a problem, but sometimes it can cause noise.

3. My star grounding point includes the shield. That is to say the shield only connects to signal ground at one point. This also avoids ground loops, while ensuring that all pot and switch casings are grounded.

 

[Hambone]

As mentioned, it really is smart to cover bare shielding with electrical tape, to eliminate the possibility that a bare connection can touch the shielding. Again, a connection that barely touches will pick up a lot more RFI/EMI, so eliminate that opportunity.

As usual lucky's got it licked!

I've found a novel way to insulate the shielding layer - discovered it by accident. Just to several layers of clearcoat in the cavity on top of the foil and it should be fine. I've been clearcoating a couple of bodies here and I didn't bother to cover the control cavity on the one with the shielding and it's go the brightest, shiniest copper that won't ever tarnish now that it's under some clear poly.

 

[nateo]

As usual lucky's got it licked!

I've found a novel way to insulate the shielding layer - discovered it by accident. Just to several layers of clearcoat in the cavity on top of the foil and it should be fine. I've been clearcoating a couple of bodies here and I didn't bother to cover the control cavity on the one with the shielding and it's go the brightest, shiniest copper that won't ever tarnish now that it's under some clear poly.

But now you've got to make sure that you scrape some of the clear away to make a connection with the rest of the cavity shielding. A shielded cavity that's not grounded isn't a shielded cavity at all.

I do like shiny new looking copper, though. In an ideal world, nothing would tarnish unless it looked cool, then it'd tarnish right away.

-Nate

 

[Dugz Ink]

I use a type of copper that is already "insulated"... but I'll post that info in the "shielding" thread... that I mentioned earlier in this thread.