Hambone #0003 Redux

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Hambone, Jan 3, 2006.

  1. All of TB has seen this bass before - it's the 3rd instrument I built and it's been around for a couple of years. The bass photographed well but, in reality, was a mess as far as the finish was concerned. I was rushing to finish it for showing off during one of the GTG's down at BassCentral in Orlando. As I was spraying a clearcoat on I nearly simultaneously had a meltdown of my gun AND my compressor. Both have been replaced since. Well, it looked like hell but played pretty good. At that time it had a Carvin 3 band preamp and Fender Japanese Jazz pups which was all that I had at the time. This past summer, it got a new owner in TB's Paul Schlotfeldt and he had some specific requirements to suit his situation so I took the opportunity to completely update the build. I've learned a lot since it was originally finished and I put to use in the rebuild. Here are the specs...

    Chambered walnut & ash body - the back is made up of about 20 individual boards, matched and glued up butcher block fashion. The top is a bookmatched piece of the same walnut stock. Body weighs 2 lbs 8 oz. The body was sealed with amber shellac and tinted with TruOil. Final topcoat is a PPG polyurethane high solids clear. The new pickup covers were cut from some scrap of the original blank and finished like the body. The cover over the electronics was the original piece I made back then. It doesn't fit perfectly but it's grain is much better than the one the bass had before. It has my single screw retainer with a curly walnut and maple button.

    Flame maple 1 piece neck - This is one of my "interpreted" necks that began life as an overrun production piece. It's been narrowed, reprofiled, leveled, fretted and dressed. I replaced the black dots with abalone - my first inlay job. The headstock is laminated with walnut. The Hambone ribbon was cut into the headstock and a new decal was applied as part of the rebuild. It's finished in a clear poly on the fretboard and headstock and a rubbed TruOil finish on the back of the neck. The lower edge of the neck has been pretty radically radiused to be a very rounded and smooth finish. Of course, all of my bolt-on necks have steel machine screw inserts.

    John East U-retro preamp
    Bartolini 9J pickups
    Gotoh tuners, bridge, and straplocks
    Brass nut
    Total weight is 8 lbs even

    There are a few more pics here in my gallery: http://www.talkbass.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2231&size=big&password=&sort=1&cat=501

  2. jja412

    jja412 Tired.

    Feb 2, 2004
    St. Louis
    Checked out the gallery pics. It loooks great, Hammy.

    2lbs 8oz?? Wow....
    I really need to get you to build me a bass.

  3. that is sharp! Looks great!
  4. teacherguy


    Feb 21, 2004
    Cincinnati, OH
    I'm not a fan of gold hardware but it does compliment that bass well!

  5. Thanx Jon

    Yep, that's why it's on there but it wasn't supposed to be that way. All along as I was putting this thing together, I was picturing my favorite black hardware. I was pretty convinced. But when I first finished the body and original pup covers, that idea of gold hardware grabbed me by the throat and MADE me buy some. :eek:

    I was powerless to resist. :scowl:
  6. Hello friends, Paul here.
    I will be the proud owner of this sweet custom bass very soon. If it sounds as great as she looks, I will the happiest bassist around. Now I need to work my fingers off to do justice to #3....
    Thanks For all the Work Hambone! Your an Artist.
    He took a few ideas of what I like and how I play , and came up with a dream bass....
  7. Nino Valenti

    Nino Valenti Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 2, 2001
    Staten Island NYC
    Builder: Valenti Basses
    That bass is really beautiful. I agree with Jon, also, I'm not a Gold hardware guy but this bass is screaming for it.
    Enjoy the bass, Paul. :thumb's-up:
  8. Phil Mailloux

    Phil Mailloux

    Mar 25, 2005
    Brisbane, Australia
    Builder: Mailloux Basses
    Couple of questions...

    Where or how do you make your decals?

    That looks like a brass nut over there. Do you buy those somewhere or make it yourself from brass stock?

    If you made it yourself, is brass hard on your tools? i.e. will your nut files screw up pretty fast?
  9. I'm using the method Bud LeCompte uses - clear mailing label stock. I got tired of all the prep the waterslide decals took so when Bud mentioned this idea, I tried it out. They are a little thicker than the water slides but they are cheap to make and easy to get a good one for use.

    I've used premade brass nuts before and I've got some in my parts stock. But I really like carving and cutting nuts for some reason so this is done from scrap stock that I horde. I make aluminum and phenolic nuts all the time and the brass carves about the same. It's very soft when compared to your files and is one of the easiest metals to work with in this form.
  10. i work in a machine shop and this old timer told me a good way to clean a file is with brass stock. it pushes wat ever is stuck in the teeth of the file out.
  11. The brass h/w with walnut/ash and maple is a nice combination.
  12. Now THAT's a cool tip. Thanx :hyper:
  13. I recieved my new baby last friday, I am blown away with the whole package. This bass looks and plays sweet, and the bart pups and east preamp are amazing...The wood is beautifull, and as you can see in the pics......hambone got his sprayer and buffer working now,,,,LOL
    Hambone is DA Man.... Tallpaul
  14. Hambone, you are making some sweet basses!
    btw, is there any problems with that cavity knob in the back, does it poke you when you play it or does it stay out of the way?
  15. Now Charlie :eyebrow: Do you honestly think that I would leave a detail like that hanging? :D

    No, it's smooth and doesn't come in contact with your body in any way.
  16. :D

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