Have a look at this wiring schematic for VVT

[jmlee]

Folks, I ran into this wiring diagram on the Bartolini site for a VVT setup with a bass that has two humbuckers. Compared to the usual wiring schema which I use for such things, it seems quite different in terms of where the capacitor is positioned, here between the tone control and the bridge volume (summed output signal). In most configurations the capacitor goes on the tone control pot between the centre tap and ground. I've convinced myself this one would work (I guess) but was wondering if there's any real advantage here. Opinions? Top figure is the Bartolini one, the bottom is the more common configuration. [Whether or not there's humbuckers involved is beside the point.]

 

[JKos]

Theres absolutely no difference electrically.

- John

 

[Killed_by_Death]

bottom drawing is better, because suspending a cap between pots is a no-no

Also, use 500K Ohm pots if you want to capture the full timbre of the instrument.
If you don't want more high end & more perceived output that 500K Ohm pots would give you, stick with 250K Ohm pots.

 

[jmlee]

bottom drawing is better, because suspending a cap between pots is a no-no

Also, use 500K Ohm pots if you want to capture the full timbre of the instrument.
If you don't want more high end & more perceived output that 500K Ohm pots would give you, stick with 250K Ohm pots.

I agree. I couldn’t think of a good reason to suspend the cap like that. Seems poor practice.

 

[Crater]

I agree. I couldn’t think of a good reason to suspend the cap like that. Seems poor practice.

My best guess is that this is done in a factory/production line environment because it's faster and easier to solder the capacitor lead to a pot terminal than to the back of the pot's can. It takes years for pots to work loose and start wiggling in their holes, which of course will cause the solid wire on the cap to flex and break. But by then the warranty will have expired.

 

[jmlee]

My best guess is that this is done in a factory/production line environment because it's faster and easier to solder the capacitor lead to a pot terminal than to the back of the pot's can. It takes years for pots to work loose and start wiggling in their holes, which of course will cause the solid wire on the cap to flex and break. But by then the warranty will have expired.

That's true if this were a factory wiring diagram, but I'm pretty sure the Bartolini figure was given as a guide to folks who are wiring their stuff at home.

 

[alpho]

q1aOTE="Killed_by_Death, post: 21871694, member: 272436"]bottom drawing is better, because suspending a cap between pots is a no-no

Also, use 500K Ohm pots if you want to capture the full timbre of the instrument.
If you don't want more high end & more perceived output that 500K Ohm pots would give you, stick with 250K Ohm pots.[/QUOTE]