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Headless Club???
- Thread starter Headless Llama
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Nice bass.
Just a quick question, do you need to be a certified knobhead to buy a bass with that many knobs ?
(ducks and runs for cover)
Yeah.... I think I could live with one of these... 
Not mine bit I wouldn't mind if it showed up on my doorstep!
MARUSZCZYK INSTRUMENTS
Custom Frog 5a headless
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Not mine bit I wouldn't mind if it showed up on my doorstep!MARUSZCZYK INSTRUMENTS
Custom Frog 5a headless
Invalid Link Removed
Happy to be back in the headless club. I just came home with a Martin Keith custom instrument with Mera Guitars bridges and headpieces. Very cool. Instead of double-ball end, they are "no ball end."
Here's the full NBD thread.
Here's the full NBD thread.
Really enjoying the new build, pretty much dialed in at this point. I’ve got 2 more of these head pieces on order, should arrive this week for the new builds.
Thrust bearings engaged, I see...
I guess you find the Steiny bridge merits the additional weight/work (recess route)?
I guess most headless bridges need to be sunk unless one raises the neck/pickups in most cases...
Now that I think about it... I wonder how hard it would be to manufacture individual bridge tuners where the base is just thick enough to support saddle height adjustments and then the wood anchor points are managed over the top of the tuner... Basically where the tuner piece anchors to the base would be flipped to be over it instead of under it...
Hmmmmmmmmm
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It really comes down to how low you like your action, by recessing the bridge it gives me the ability to start a lot lower so I’m not bringing the saddles up very much at all to get the action where I want it. I like the solid brass Steinberger bridges, I’m having some made that will be a little bit lighter weight but generally a similar concept.
Just got a couple more of these headpieces, such nice quality.
If anyone is interested, I have a couple of new/unused Nova headpieces and an ABM 48mm solid brass headpiece that I’m going to put up in the classifieds soon.
Hey guys, I’m back, and thinking about using my old Hohner B2 for a live set with a new project. Gonna have to trade with my dad for something equivalent to get it back 
This has me thinking about some quality of life things I’d like to fix, having played it while visiting this weekend. Namely the A and D tuners are impossible to move. Thrust bearings? The whole bridge needs cleaning so I’ll chuck some WD40 there while I do so but you guys seem pretty happy with those.
Secondly, what have you guys done to move the strap pin on the neck joint closer to the 12th fret? That’s the main thing that drives me up the wall with this bass - I can’t stand how far away the first frets are. I’m considering building a wooden arm and attaching it as a “clamp” around the neck heel and using the preexisting screw hole. Thoughts?
Finally, I’ll get one of the nice brass headpieces to make string changes easier. Sounds good.
Will post pics when I do the mods and of any performances I do with it (if you guys are interested!)
This has me thinking about some quality of life things I’d like to fix, having played it while visiting this weekend. Namely the A and D tuners are impossible to move. Thrust bearings? The whole bridge needs cleaning so I’ll chuck some WD40 there while I do so but you guys seem pretty happy with those.
Secondly, what have you guys done to move the strap pin on the neck joint closer to the 12th fret? That’s the main thing that drives me up the wall with this bass - I can’t stand how far away the first frets are. I’m considering building a wooden arm and attaching it as a “clamp” around the neck heel and using the preexisting screw hole. Thoughts?
Finally, I’ll get one of the nice brass headpieces to make string changes easier. Sounds good.
Will post pics when I do the mods and of any performances I do with it (if you guys are interested!)
Yes after a cleaning, the thrust bearings are great. The Spirit headpiece may work I would email him for dimensions to make sure the screw holes will align.Hey guys, I’m back, and thinking about using my old Hohner B2 for a live set with a new project. Gonna have to trade with my dad for something equivalent to get it back
This has me thinking about some quality of life things I’d like to fix, having played it while visiting this weekend. Namely the A and D tuners are impossible to move. Thrust bearings? The whole bridge needs cleaning so I’ll chuck some WD40 there while I do so but you guys seem pretty happy with those.
Secondly, what have you guys done to move the strap pin on the neck joint closer to the 12th fret? That’s the main thing that drives me up the wall with this bass - I can’t stand how far away the first frets are. I’m considering building a wooden arm and attaching it as a “clamp” around the neck heel and using the preexisting screw hole. Thoughts?
Finally, I’ll get one of the nice brass headpieces to make string changes easier. Sounds good.
Will post pics when I do the mods and of any performances I do with it (if you guys are interested!)
I just went through this process with a Hohner B2A (which I traded away). WD40 is good for cleaning but not a great long lasting lubricant. Use some graphite. Either buy graphite lubricant or just use a pencil. There are links in the thread fairly recently from @Barticus to the right sized bearings. Highly recommended.Hey guys, I’m back, and thinking about using my old Hohner B2 for a live set with a new project. Gonna have to trade with my dad for something equivalent to get it back
This has me thinking about some quality of life things I’d like to fix, having played it while visiting this weekend. Namely the A and D tuners are impossible to move. Thrust bearings? The whole bridge needs cleaning so I’ll chuck some WD40 there while I do so but you guys seem pretty happy with those.
Secondly, what have you guys done to move the strap pin on the neck joint closer to the 12th fret? That’s the main thing that drives me up the wall with this bass - I can’t stand how far away the first frets are. I’m considering building a wooden arm and attaching it as a “clamp” around the neck heel and using the preexisting screw hole. Thoughts?
Finally, I’ll get one of the nice brass headpieces to make string changes easier. Sounds good.
Will post pics when I do the mods and of any performances I do with it (if you guys are interested!)
Good to hear from both of you guys. I'll email the guy about the Spirit headpiece but for now a clean and some thrust bearings will be the go. The headpiece is a bit spendy of an upgrade, despite opening a bunch of options for strings. The double ball end strings that are on it are old, but the sound is there.
I'd like to bring up the strap extension question again, though. Has anyone done something similar? it seems easy enough but I'm unsure if I'm being naive. Cheers!
Still waiting on a review of this oneCan I get a club number, please?
View attachment 4748523 View attachment 4748524 View attachment 4748525
Actually been playing my Duke headless almost exclusively the past couple years, so probably should have asked for one earlier
I have to say that the ETS tuners are very smooth... much better than the (ABM?) ones that came with my Status Streamline, and the Miller em4. These probably don't really need the ball-bearing thrust washers, but I will try installing them anyway, since I have a bunch on standby here ...
after playing it for while, is it still as cool as it looks? I’d love to hear a comparison vs your Streamline. 
I don’t have any experience with extenders, as I’ve not owned that body style in 20yrsGood to hear from both of you guys. I'll email the guy about the Spirit headpiece but for now a clean and some thrust bearings will be the go. The headpiece is a bit spendy of an upgrade, despite opening a bunch of options for strings. The double ball end strings that are on it are old, but the sound is there.
I'd like to bring up the strap extension question again, though. Has anyone done something similar? it seems easy enough but I'm unsure if I'm being naive. Cheers!
But I remember from an earlier thread that @Lesfunk had recommended a solution available on Reverb. I searched through the thread and couldn’t find it, hopefully he can point you in the right direction.
Those replacement headpieces are very high quality and in comparison to others - very reasonably priced. I’ve paid more than twice that for ABM headpieces and the little ugly brass blocks cost almost as much and are super hokey.
Spirit XT-2 4 String Bass Combined Brass Headpiece replacement | eBay
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No. Take it apart and clean it well and use the tiniest dab of moly grease. Nylon or teflon washers between the housing and the screw knobs will work to reduce friction. I've not tried thrust washers yet, but they're on my to do list when I spend a day and get them all on the bench to give tune up and clean up to.
I've also seen some posts in one of the threads here showing a tutorial on how to take the licensed Steinie bridges apart and clean them up. I didn't bookmark it though. When I do mine, I'll do a tutorial on them and post it to my website.
There are plenty of posts here and in the Spirit thread on how to make strap pin extenders. Also just do a search and look at the pics and it's pretty obvious what to do.
I'm looking forward to emailing Matt and ordering some headpieces, but during the recent move I found several sets of DB strings I forgot I had for both guitar and bass. Gonna see if they're OK before I pop for the 4 headpieces I need.
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This is hands-down the best short-scale, headless case that I have purchased so far. It’s a perfect fit with nice padding and lots of extra storage. I have the normal bass case version which is much bigger (GC deal for $49) this is the electric guitar version which I got on the MF stupid deal of the day for $69. I should’ve bought at least one more since I usually take 2 basses to a gig.
Normal price on these cases is still a good deal at $119. I would put the quality of these cases up against any of the higher end cases (Mono, TKL, Reunion Blues, etc.). This budget priced case really makes those high-end cases look silly since the overall case padding, neck support is equal or far better and the storage is better than all of those.
Road Runner RR5EG-ESP (guitar)
Normal price on these cases is still a good deal at $119. I would put the quality of these cases up against any of the higher end cases (Mono, TKL, Reunion Blues, etc.). This budget priced case really makes those high-end cases look silly since the overall case padding, neck support is equal or far better and the storage is better than all of those.
Road Runner RR5EG-ESP (guitar)
Posted in the Carvin/Kiesel thread but just discovered there’s a headless club!
Just got my Kiesel VB6 a couple of weeks ago and played my first gig with it last night.
Just got my Kiesel VB6 a couple of weeks ago and played my first gig with it last night.
