Headless Club???

[Barticus]

I might be experimenting with flats on a headless... before I make an expensive mistake, can I just clamp-n-snip like rounds at the nut or will that muck up flats?

I’ve had good luck with chromes, they worked really well. Labella Golds did not work well. I just put a set of Labella double ball flats on my Synapse five and they’re working out really nicely for that Piezo.

I also ordered a set of half rounds that I’m going to put on my other custom build that I’m converting from fretless to fretted (that has the grub screws) and they look like they’ll work out just fine.

 

[Barticus]

Nice score! I have a fretted/fretless 5 pair, I need to get back to my experiment with the fretted - I pulled the piezo and dropped in individual saddles. I think I still need to make a shim plate for them. Great basses!

Oh, good to know someone else actually has a couple of these. Have you had any issues with the truss rod? I tried to adjust mine, and it does not seem to want to turn, I believe it is a double action truss rod? Any tips or pointers you could provide me would be super helpful.

 

[HeavyDuty]

Oh, good to know someone else actually has a couple of these. Have you had any issues with the truss rod? I tried to adjust mine, and it does not seem to want to turn, I believe it is a double action truss rod? Any tips or pointers you could provide me would be super helpful.

I haven’t touched my trussrods in years, and I don’t remember any issues - but I always treat all basses like Rics and preload the necks.

 

[MovinTarget]

Clamping down on the ribbon the flats are wound with can (and maybe even very likely will) break the winding and could cause it to unravel. There are dbl ball flats, but they ain't cheap...

It's certainly a risk.

The headless system I aim to use would not be double ball.

So the idea I want to experiment with is having hot-swappable necks so having the strings clamped at the nut and then using top-loading headless tuners will give me the ability to keep the strings on their respective necks, ready to go when I have a need to for my fretted neck or my fretless...

 

[J Posega]

Maybe put some heat shrink tubing around the end of the string before clamping it down? I dunno if it will help at all, but it probably wouldn't hurt. You could also solder over the end of the string or apply glue before clamping.

 

[ctmullins]

The headless system I aim to use would not be double ball.

This is why I much prefer the Nova headpiece, as its grub screws are much larger than others. I can crank down on them without any concerns about string breakage.

 

[MovinTarget]

This is why I much prefer the Nova headpiece, as its grub screws are much larger than others. I can crank down on them without any concerns about string breakage.

And Nova is *Exactly* who I had in mind!

 

[Doctor Roberts]

Dear colleagues,

I recently got a Hohner B2A and has this "preamp adjustment" for a screwdriver (white screw of sorts).

Do you know what is this for or how to use it? I moved it a bit to see if it was a way to control a setting on the preamp, but do not hear much of a difference on my (very) small practice amp.

Thank you!

 

[J Posega]

I’ll be back in the club soon with this DIY monstrosity. It’s a 30” scale neck paired with an 80s Superstrat body and Guyker headless hardware.

 

[NMonBass]

Decided to move my Vader along today. I am considering moving my Zeus along as well to fund a third build that combines everything I liked from both builds into one. 5 or maybe a 6 string Zeus, but not sure about multiscale or not. I'm not sure it makes that much of a difference for me personally! Going from the Vader to my Gould I usually felt like sticking to the straight scale of the Gould, but it's not a big deal to go from the multiscale on my Zeus to my straight scale 4s.



See ya later buddy! Ultimately decided it was too sick of a bass to rot in my collection without getting much play time.

 

[MovinTarget]

View attachment 5315875 I’ll be back in the club soon with this DIY monstrosity. It’s a 30” scale neck paired with an 80s Superstrat body and Guyker headless hardware.

Are the Guyker top loading or "string thru" the barrel? Some pictures close up would be appreciated as the sales posts never show all the details.

 

[J Posega]

Are the Guyker top loading or "string thru" the barrel? Some pictures close up would be appreciated as the sales posts never show all the details.

Top load. There’s a ‘claw’ that captures the ball end and as you tune up, it gets drawn back under the back end of the bridge. It should accommodate the strings I want to use on this without modification. The head end requires drilling out the low E just a bit to fit a .100+ string.

 

[Barticus]

Dear colleagues,

I recently got a Hohner B2A and has this "preamp adjustment" for a screwdriver (white screw of sorts).

Do you know what is this for or how to use it? I moved it a bit to see if it was a way to control a setting on the preamp, but do not hear much of a difference on my (very) small practice amp.

Thank you!


View attachment 5315867

Hmm, well L-H seems it would be low/high… does it have a mid control?

 

[Snert]

Dear colleagues,

I recently got a Hohner B2A and has this "preamp adjustment" for a screwdriver (white screw of sorts).

Do you know what is this for or how to use it? I moved it a bit to see if it was a way to control a setting on the preamp, but do not hear much of a difference on my (very) small practice amp.

Thank you!


View attachment 5315867

I thought it was preamp gain.

 

[Be_eM]

I thought it was preamp gain.

It is preamp output level

 

[ronin614]

Is anyone selling a reasonably priced Hohner Jack, B2 or B2A?

 

[ronin614]

Dear colleagues,

I recently got a Hohner B2A and has this "preamp adjustment" for a screwdriver (white screw of sorts).

Do you know what is this for or how to use it? I moved it a bit to see if it was a way to control a setting on the preamp, but do not hear much of a difference on my (very) small practice amp.

Thank you!


View attachment 5315867

It’s to set the output level of the preamp for when you switch from passive to active. It lets you adjust so there isn’t a massive volume spike (unless you want that) when you turn on the active preamp.

 

[iriegnome]

I am just throwing this out to the group, I am putting up both my headless bass and guitar for sale. They are both 1984(ish) Modulus Flight 4SP and 6SP. The bass is 1 of maybe 20 built and the guitar is about 1 of 10 ever built.
Although I have not put them up in the classified as of yet, if you would be so inclined you can message me for info and pricing.

 

[Barticus]

I am just throwing this out to the group, I am putting up both my headless bass and guitar for sale. They are both 1984(ish) Modulus Flight 4SP and 6SP. The bass is 1 of maybe 20 built and the guitar is about 1 of 10 ever built.
Although I have not put them up in the classified as of yet, if you would be so inclined you can message me for info and pricing.

View attachment 5326127 View attachment 5326128

Wow, those are crazy!
I never knew they made any headless... They look like keys.

 

[Doctor Roberts]

Thank you very much to everyone who answered! It was indeed to control the preamp volume.

During the research, I found a very interesting catalog from 90-91, where they explain some of the features as well. I am attaching it to this message.

Hmm, well L-H seems it would be low/high… does it have a mid control?

I thought it was preamp gain.

It is preamp output level

It’s to set the output level of the preamp for when you switch from passive to active. It lets you adjust so there isn’t a massive volume spike (unless you want that) when you turn on the active preamp.