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Usually the person who slaps the price tag on it.
This old saying keeps popping into my head during this thread...
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull$#!+."
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This old saying keeps popping into my head during this thread...
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull$#!+."
At what point were you bedazzled?
Funny you mentioned a split-wood for the body. Going along with what I believe is another of those dumb inconsistencies in instruments: possibly the glue line between the body halves could have been an isolating factor, not allowing migration of the E-string notes to cross over into more resonant wood.
Don'tcha love it?
I can't hear this at work, but I thought i'd throw this into the mix. can anyone tell me if it sounds "traditional"?
I can't hear this at work, but I thought i'd throw this into the mix. can anyone tell me if it sounds "traditional"?

it sounds like what it is to me.
a tin can........![]()

Sustain;
I want an instrument does solid, long sustain.
That way I can decide when to stop the note rather than hoping for the bass to hold on long enough for certain passages.
This statement I agree with. Higher grade woods are SAID to resonate better than their lower graded counterparts, when the luthier is selective about their resonant qualities.
I'm not sure how any of this applies to a solid-body instrument. I can't imagine any difference being detected in resonance of an slab of wood more than a few cm thick.
I also like to have that note be relatively even while it sustains vs. rapidly tapering off. For example, holding a note for a couple of measures during a quiet passage of a song. Or playing moving chords or melodies over an open string.

+1
This is why longer sustain might be prefereable to some. I prefer choosing when my notes end too. I also like to have that note be relatively even while it sustains vs. rapidly tapering off. For example, holding a note for a couple of measures during a quiet passage of a song. Or playing moving chords or melodies over an open string.
Careful with that statement! I laugh at the term "higher quality wood" because it's so subjective. Usually the "quality" of wood is based on appearance and exclusivity, not resonance.
I hear and read of people bashing basswood, for example, calling it a low quality wood for solid bodies, yet it's tonal properties in most cases sit right between alder and ash (closer to alder IMHO). Some of the same people couldn't tell you the difference if you put their favorite manufacturers label on it and put it int their hands and let them play it! The best example of this is the Music Man Bongo. I see people here all the time praise the Bongo but swear off basswood as the crappiest wood in existence and find it shameful for any human to create or posses an instrument made out of such an abominating substance!
It is of my opinion that it can make a MAJOR difference! I'm quite sure at somepoint the thickness will become negligible to the tonal aspect, but4cm of purpleheart with 1.5 cm of maple will have a different sonic profile than 4 cm of maple with 1.5 of purpleheart! . It can be noticeable, but I doubt anyone will say "that instrument with all of the purpleheart sucks" mainly because most people in the listening audience cannot discern the wood types when you play your instrument. Hell, most don't even know what a bass is supposed to sound like or the job of the bass in the first place! I find that only musicians, mainly bass players, are overly consumed with this.
I have no problem with basswood other than the one basswood bass I owned, the bridge screws stripped out. I assumed it's because the wood is a little too soft. am I off on this, is it just as solid as any other wood?
I have no problem with basswood other than the one basswood bass I owned, the bridge screws stripped out. I assumed it's because the wood is a little too soft. am I off on this, is it just as solid as any other wood?