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The point is though that you have to have some clean signal in there, otherwise there will be no punchy low end. It will be all sludgy and undefined, especially when tuned that low. I mean, listen to Sunn O)), not bass but ultra low-tuning, and really sludgy stuff. It works perfectly for them, but for what you're describing you'll need a bit more definition. I mean, unless you're looking for some sort of Necrobutcher-type sound which is pretty fuzzy and gnarly but not all that punchy, you're going to have to have some clean signal in the mix... maybe 30-40% of it clean.
This is just what I've come across in my time, I could be totally wrong.
I think you are pretty accurate, thanks a bunch.
I agree with the dual rig idea. It works for me.
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I run the black Firebass clean and the white Firebass gets my Rat King. It's pretty glorious.

I agree with the dual rig idea. It works for me.
![]()
I run the black Firebass clean and the white Firebass gets my Rat King. It's pretty glorious.
when you get the funds, you want this head - Verellen Meat Smoke @ 1:20
http://youtu.be/EDqRXHwclM4

The handy thing about bass guitars is that instead of producing a simple sine wave like a signal generator, they produce a wide range of interesting audible harmonics in multiples of the fundamental frequency of the tuned string.Your F# = 23.125Hz
There is a good chance that an ordinary amp will have baked-in a filter that takes most signal below 30Hz out as noise. You need a high quality PA amp that does not impose a HPF roll-off.
I'd go for a Crest CA9 (or similar). The CA9 has two channels, each 2 ohm capable, and throws 1800 watts at 4 ohms bridged with 20Hz-20kHz, 0.1% THD (total harmonic distortion). Less that 1% is considered the basic standard, so this amp is seriously accurate down by 20Hz.
Then a tube pre (ART?), pedals (DarkGlass or SansAmp), and for speaker cabs—something that can represent however much of the fundamental you decide to throw at it (Acme, BagEnd, Epifani, fEARful, BFM, ThunderChild?). Maybe a GEQ will help you sculpt that?
Anyway, much luck with the 23.125Hz F#, I'd love to hear it, but my hi-end B&W speakers might not like it.![]()

...and for speaker cabs—something that can represent however much of the fundamental you decide to throw at it (Acme, BagEnd, Epifani, fEARful, BFM, ThunderChild?).
For this tuning and duty I would recommend using a >24dB per octave HPF at 40Hz or you will destroy the the original posters speakers first gig, especially if you use a high power low distortion solid state amp.
This is a job for lowish tube watts (200 clean 100 dirty so you don't fry anything) and massive highly efficient speaker count and surface area so you can hear the smaller wattage amps at high volume.![]()
I agree with the dual rig idea. It works for me.
![]()
I run the black Firebass clean and the white Firebass gets my Rat King. It's pretty glorious.
Not that I downtune or anything, but I prefer not blending clean and dirty and I prefer having pedals that do a good job with it without needing a blend. There's a very fine line between getting a great sound blending and making it sound like there are two bass parts. That said, my Team Awesome Fuzz Machine has a blend and I can set it to where it sounds like the same signal easily enough, but the potential for making it sound like two bass parts is there.
I bet that would sound just killer, but load-in and load-out would suck. For instance to replicate the SPL of single fEARful 1515/66 driven by one kilowatt, and you're using 200 tube watts, imo you'd need the two 1515/66 cabs and one15/6 cab, or the equivalent (you wouldn't need as much power handling, so you could save a few bucks there). And I'm factoring "1 tube watt = 2 solid state watts" for purposes of perceived loudness; if you don't accept that fudge factor, figure on needing the equivalent of five 1515/66 cabs to get there with 200 tube watts.
I know you didn't ask, but let me toss out an idea for configuring those dual stacks: Mix 'em up and toe 'em in. If you toe the two stacks in at about 20 degrees each (such that their inner front corners are touching or almost), their radiation patterns will gently criss-cross and you'll get a considerably wider net pattern, with little or no on-axis hot-spot. Now stack them with one clean cab on each side and one Rat King cab on each side, so that you get a mixture firing off at either angle. Now your tone will be more uniform over a considerably wider area.
Imo, ime, ymmv, etc.
Banned in most nightclubs...
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Your F# = 23.125Hz
There is a good chance that an ordinary amp will have baked-in a filter that takes most signal below 30Hz out as noise. You need a high quality PA amp that does not impose a HPF roll-off.
I'd go for a Crest CA9 (or similar). The CA9 has two channels, each 2 ohm capable, and throws 1800 watts at 4 ohms bridged with 20Hz-20kHz, 0.1% THD (total harmonic distortion). Less that 1% is considered the basic standard, so this amp is seriously accurate down by 20Hz.
Then a tube pre (ART?), pedals (DarkGlass or SansAmp), and for speaker cabs—something that can represent however much of the fundamental you decide to throw at it (Acme, BagEnd, Epifani, fEARful, BFM, ThunderChild?). Maybe a GEQ will help you sculpt that?
Anyway, much luck with the 23.125Hz F#, I'd love to hear it, but my hi-end B&W speakers might not like it.![]()
The handy thing about bass guitars is that instead of producing a simple sine wave like a signal generator, they produce a wide range of interesting audible harmonics in multiples of the fundamental frequency of the tuned string.
That Meat Smoke is wicked. Couldn't find a vid with a Darkglass running into one, prolly cuz when you start playing it melts your face.![]()
That Meat Smoke is wicked. Couldn't find a vid with a Darkglass running into one, prolly cuz when you start playing it melts your face.![]()