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Help Ampeg B-15NC B+ voltages low when pluging 6L6 Power Tubes

What is B+ without tubes? AFAIK the 440V is what you should see with the amp idling normally. With tubes pulled, the voltage should be notably higher. In some amps, B+ voltage with all tubes removed rises above the rating of the filter caps.


Could definitely be a leaky filter cap.
Removing the 6L6 and leaving the other tubes, I get 536V on V4 (1st 6L6) and 533V on V5.
 
I would really want to know what’s up with that can cap before doing anything else.

Troubleshooting rule #1 is to investigate and correct the damage from previous repair attempts and modifications.
Since the problem arises only when I put the power tubes in the equation and that they connect directly at the first pin of the can (essentially at pin 8 of rectifier), it was looking to me as the filter can was not the problem. Does my assumption make sense?
Or I'm missing something?
 
Since the problem arises only when I put the power tubes in the equation and that they connect directly at the first pin of the can (essentially at pin 8 of rectifier), it was looking to me as the filter can was not the problem. Does my assumption make sense?
Or I'm missing something?
No, the capacitor factors into the effectiveness of the power supply.

If the cap is incorrect (wrong value or fake) or is failing, the ripple will be much higher and the rms (DC in this case) voltage will be low.
 

Attachments

Removing the 6L6 and leaving the other tubes, I get 536V on V4 (1st 6L6) and 533V on V5.

About 540V DC unloaded is what I expected. This seems to point back to the rectifier. As I mentioned the original filter caps were only rated for 500V. If you have a variac, dial the line AC down enough to avoid pushing the filter caps over their voltage rating.


I believe we have concluded: With the tubes in, the AC from the PT is where it should be but the DC is too low. So the PT appears to be okay.

This may be harebrained: Are you sure the rectifier is wired correctly. AFAIK the output on 5AR4 is supposed to be take off pin 8 because the cathode is indirectly heated. If the wiring is reversed and the output is taken off pin 2 the voltage is being pulled through the heater windings.

1732933864824.png

Not sure exactly what the result would, but perhaps it would produce the reported symptoms :confused:.

Different tubes like 5U4GB have directly heated cathodes, so you can take the output off pin 2 or 8.
1732934186298.png

5U4GB has a lot more sag.
 
No, the capacitor factors into the effectiveness of the power supply.

If the cap is incorrect (wrong value or fake) or is failing, the ripple will be much higher and the rms (DC in this case) voltage will be low.
But, I get same result (low DC on plate) even with only the rectifier and one 6l6 plugged.
At this point, the filter can is not even involved right?
 
About 540V DC unloaded is what I expected. This seems to point back to the rectifier. As I mentioned the original filter caps were only rated for 500V. If you have a variac, dial the line AC down enough to avoid pushing the filter caps over their voltage rating.


I believe we have concluded: With the tubes in, the AC from the PT is where it should be but the DC is too low. So the PT appears to be okay.

This may be harebrained: Are you sure the rectifier is wired correctly. AFAIK the output on 5AR4 is supposed to be take off pin 8 because the cathode is indirectly heated. If the wiring is reversed and the output is taken off pin 2 the voltage is being pulled through the heater windings.

View attachment 7089159
Not sure exactly what the result would, but perhaps it would produce the reported symptoms :confused:.

Different tubes like 5U4GB have directly heated cathodes, so you can take the output off pin 2 or 8.
View attachment 7089161
5U4GB has a lot more sag.
I don't have a Variac, but I can get one. What test would I actually do with it? I would lower it so that 6V6 plates are below 500VDC and then?
I can test with a third rectifier...
Yeah, it seems the PT is ok.
DC is definitely taken from pin 8 of rectifier.
 
But, I get same result (low DC on plate) even with only the rectifier and one 6l6 plugged.
At this point, the filter can is not even involved right?
Isn’t the cap part of the B+ filtering?

What happens at that node loaded versus unloaded?
 
Isn’t the cap part of the B+ filtering?

What happens at that node loaded versus unloaded?
I'm not sure that there's any filtering happening at the first nod of filter can. It is like connecting yourself at pin 8 of rectifier. Isn't it?
If I don't plug 6L6, the voltage at the first node of filter cap is way higher than loaded with the power tubes. It reflects up to the pin 8 of rectifier.
 
The present capacitor can is 40/40/40/40MFD while the schematics shows 40/40/20/20MFD.
Since it was so badly installed (see pictures), I'm planning on changing it anyways. Which one should I buy?
 

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  • B15NC Can1.jpg
    B15NC Can1.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 14
  • B15NC Can2.jpg
    B15NC Can2.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 17
I don't have a Variac, but I can get one. What test would I actually do with it? I would lower it so that 6V6 plates are below 500VDC and then?
I can test with a third rectifier...
Yeah, it seems the PT is ok.
DC is definitely taken from pin 8 of rectifier.


The voltage goes over spec when the tubes are pulled. The variac allows you to prevent this.
 
I can test with a third rectifier


Perhaps it would be a good idea to devise a way to figure out how much current the rectifier is delivering.

Another potentially harebrained idea. You know the voltage is getting to the plate pins on the tube socket, but are you sure both plates are actually being fed. Perhaps the tube socket is damaged, dirty, or loose, so only one plate is active.
 
I'm not sure that there's any filtering happening at the first nod of filter can. It is like connecting yourself at pin 8 of rectifier. Isn't it?
If I don't plug 6L6, the voltage at the first node of filter cap is way higher than loaded with the power tubes. It reflects up to the pin 8 of rectifier.
Of course there it, that’s the primary “capacitor input filter” node. If that’s bad, the DC voltage will fall faster under load.
 
Of course there it, that’s the primary “capacitor input filter” node. If that’s bad, the DC voltage will fall faster under load.
Ok, then, although I know I want to change the filter caps can, I would like to know how I can test it to find its fault (s). Cause, I'm really suspecting it now. I made the mistake of ruling it out as the problem...