Help! Bass string height

[7nubie]

Hi,

I am seeking answers for bass my guitar problem, a few weeks ago i've had all the hardware on my Fender Jazz bass changed (well, almost except the pickguard screws ), the replacements parts comes from various brands and are NOT the same as the stock parts. Reason for the change is the color of the hardware, that is the stock hardware are all silver but now its gold. Now, here's the problem, after the change I noticed that the string action has gone higher and I can't lower the bridge saddles anymore coz of the buzz, the neck is fairly straight but only using visual check, after nearly 2 days inspecting and testing, what cause the change is 1) the Nut - I had changed from plastic to brass (do brass nuts are taller than the stocks ones) , 2) the Bridge – it seem the replacement bridge has thicker base than the stock.
So, the question is how can I fix this other than replacing the parts again ( if this should be last option ), to my mind should I add "shims" at the neck so to make the bottom part of go slightly higher, what disadvantages in doing so. I really need help here..... btw sorry for long detail story, if any of you guys wants to help with long and detail... i'd welcome and appreciate it too.

 

[enricogaletta]

To make the strings lower have you tried to insert between the body and the neck, in the place where the neck is blocked with the screws a piece of a thin pasteboard?
Cheers. Enrico
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[bunnykeeper]

Adding a shim in this situation is a common solution. Some might say it changes the tone because you're reducing the amount of neck-to-body contact area, but I can't tell the difference. Try a piece of business card, placed beyond the last two screw holes.

 

[SurferJoe46]

^^^ ... that's deep in the pocket to send the neck further back and tilt it a little.

If you put it at the top of the neck, it'll make matters worse.

You're gonna need to reset the height of the strings at the nut too I bet.

Don't worry about any losses to voice of the instrument with a shim and lowered body-neck contact. It doesn't matter. Really - it doesn't.

Gonna make a picture now - BRB-------------------------------

(minutes later ---) Got a pix for you:::

 

[XylemBassGuitar]

after the change I noticed that the string action has gone higher and I can't lower the bridge saddles anymore coz of the buzz.

You mean you're getting fret buzz now and you weren't before? That's kind of weird considering that you only changed hardware. How long did you have the strings off the bass? Is it the bridge height that is preventing you from further lowering your action, or is it fret buzz?

If you're getting fret buzz now and you weren't before the hardware change, you might just want to take the bass to a tech or luthier to be set up. They will be able to work the nut to the right height/fit as well.

Assuming that it is the bridge height limiting your action:

+1 to the neck shim suggestions. I usually recommend using some hardwood veneer or something similarly hard for the neck shim. You want a shim that is the same thickness down its entire length. If there isn't too much extra height from the bridge to deal with, you want the shim to completely cover the neck pocket, maintaining good, body-neck contact. But, if there is more than one or two shims worth of extra height, you will want to put a smaller shim (one that doesn't completely cover the neck pocket) at the bottom of the neck pocket (towards the bridge) to give it a little backward angle, this will help compensate for a tall bridge more effectively..

I'm assuming that you didn't do any work to the nut when you put it on the bass. Virtually all nuts require additional work to get them to fit properly. You'll want to sand the bottom of the nut to get it down to the right height. You will also need to make sure that the nut stays flat and square while you are sanding it. Use a good square to check it while you are sanding often.

Many times I lay the sandpaper on a very flat surface and then hold another flat surface exactly 90 degrees to the sandpaper surface as a guide to keep the nut square. (A block of wood with a square side works well for this, make sure to check it is really square and flat before using it though!).

You'll know the nut is the right height when you press a string at the 3rd fret and it just barely clears the first fret (you want about .010" of space, get some feeler gauges from an auto supply store to check). Getting the nut to the right height will definitely help your action at the lower end and will keep your intonation better as well.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Hi,

I am seeking answers for bass my guitar problem, a few weeks ago i've had all the hardware on my Fender Jazz bass changed (well, almost except the pickguard screws ), the replacements parts comes from various brands and are NOT the same as the stock parts. Reason for the change is the color of the hardware, that is the stock hardware are all silver but now its gold. Now, here's the problem, after the change I noticed that the string action has gone higher and I can't lower the bridge saddles anymore coz of the buzz, the neck is fairly straight but only using visual check, after nearly 2 days inspecting and testing, what cause the change is 1) the Nut - I had changed from plastic to brass (do brass nuts are taller than the stocks ones) , 2) the Bridge – it seem the replacement bridge has thicker base than the stock.
So, the question is how can I fix this other than replacing the parts again ( if this should be last option ), to my mind should I add "shims" at the neck so to make the bottom part of go slightly higher, what disadvantages in doing so. I really need help here..... btw sorry for long detail story, if any of you guys wants to help with long and detail... i'd welcome and appreciate it too.

Okay, given the highlighted statement above, a shim may not be the best option. You're saying the bridge saddles can be lowered further but that results in fret buzz. The shims suggested in earlier posts work best when dealing with bridge saddles which have bottomed out on the base plate which is not your case. First thing I would do is re-assess my neck / fretboard relief which you've described as "fairly straight"....not good IMO and may certainly contribute the buzz encountered. Depress the E (or B) string at the first and last frets...you should see a gap of ~.012" - .014" at the 8th fret. If non-existent or the strings are virtually resting on the fretboard, you may want to introduce some addt'l relief by relaxing the truss rod. You should be able to lower the saddles to spec.

A "too-straight" neck can be problematic when dealing with the inter-relationship amongst 3 planes....fingerboard, strings, body.

Edit: Don't forget to check nut slots for correct depth (.003" - .005" when fretting the 3rd). If someone else did your work, take it back for a looksey.


Riis

 

[staindbass]

Adding a shim in this situation is a common solution. Some might say it changes the tone because you're reducing the amount of neck-to-body contact area, but I can't tell the difference. Try a piece of business card, placed beyond the last two screw holes.

if he cant lower the saddles without it buzzing, changing the neck angle wont help. you will have the same problem. the neck shim is for when your saddles are all the way down and its still too high. where is the bass buzzing? if it buzzes on the high frets, there is probably too much neck relief. if it buzzes in the middle or lower frets, the neck is probably too flat. if it only buzzes on the open strings, the nut is too low. check your relief- push the string down onto the first fret, not the space on the fretboard, right ON the fret (we are using the string as a straightedge) and hold it. then go one fret above where the neck joins the body, and hold that one on the fret at the same time. now look halfway between your fingers (in the middle) at the space between the string and the frets. there should be just enough space between the string and fret to slide a guitar pick through flat. if its 2 or 3 picks thick, the neck has too much bow or relief. if there is no space, it doesnt have enough relief. tightening the truss rod nut will give a bigger space, loosening it will make the space larger.

 

[SurferJoe46]

Just though - instead of the complication of making a luthier's licensed neck shim at the moment, loosen the screws enough to slip a business card near the front screws and re-tighten and see if the situation improves or not.

If the buzz goes away, then check the string height-to-frets as mentioned and you'll see if the nut needs to be cut or not.

OP- FYI, tightening the truss rod will bend the neck backwards, usually making the strings come closer to the middle of the neck, and loosening the truss will allow the strings to pull the neck forward and open the clearance of the strings-to-frets.

The strings pulling the neck forward may NOT happen fast as the wood of the neck will have to move to a new position and it may take a little time to happen. Keep the strings tuned to pitch for the best results but only AFTER you move the truss adjustments.

I think this might be backwards or the same result with either adjustments - but it's early, smokey from the fire and I only have had two cups so far and being old I might be confused too, so there's that::

tightening the truss rod nut will give a bigger space, loosening it will make the space larger.