Help on Wiring

[TeeSee]

Hi,
I wanted to rewire my HB-414 to have a Ric like operation rather than the Gibson type operation.
In the gibson mode when switched to both pickups if you turn any volume knob down it kills the signal for both. I wanted the volumes to operate independently when switched to both PU's.
I'm not an electronics wizard but thought I'd have a go. I was using Cadfaels 4001 schematic as a template.
Unfortunately it has not turned out as expected.
The bridge pick up operates on all switch positions regardless, the neck pickup is behaving itself and acting normally.
But the strangest thing of all is that when the tone on each pickup is rolled off it kills the volume to that pickup, regardless of volume position.
I'm posting a hand drawn schematic of how I've wired it (excuse mistake on bridge tone, also Cadfaels schematic shows left and centre lugs grounded to tone pot case which I've done).
Also some photo's of the wiring which may or may not help, and Cadfaels schematic.
I don't even know whether I've interperated it correctly but any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TeeSee]

Also I've checked the switch and it's operating physically as it should, the leaves are seperating and making correctly, but when I put the meter on it and connect to the bridge pu terminal, regardless of which position the switch is in, there's a constant reading and tone in continuity. Neck pu is behaving as it should.

 

[TeeSee]

It's alright everyone, I've sorted it now, couldn't read the diagram correctly and made a mess of the caps to the switch. Don't worry about answering, I'm honestly not that good with electrics but got it done now.

 

[HHudson]

So, just in case anyone else should decide to use Cadfael's (technically correct) drawing has issues & and ends up here because of it, best to look at this, it is much clearer and shows the physical connections as they need to be soldered (note: if you have an unangled switch, the in/out connections will normally be split on the two sides of the switch and not all together on one side as on an angled switch used in Rics) .

For a mono only circuit without a stereo jack, the two volume pot outer lug outputs go to the jack tip (you can bridge the two volume outputs as on a Jazz bass to use only one wire for hot to the jack tip):

The first picture in the diagram is without a push pull switch for the Ric bridge .0047uf inline "bass cut cap", you either want it & add it and ignore the red connection, or only install it via the green connection. Having both red & green will cause the cap to be bypassed.
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/old-4001-bass-stereo-to-mono-jack-possible.1417943/#post-22983003

 

[HHudson]

Edit, got my colo(u)r coding wrong above for the cap according to that diagram:

Correction with added clarity: "you either do want it & add it with the GREEN connection with the cap inline and ignore the RED connection, or you don't want it and only install the RED wire connection and ignore the GREEN".

 

[mrperkolator]

It's alright everyone, I've sorted it now, couldn't read the diagram correctly and made a mess of the caps to the switch. Don't worry about answering, I'm honestly not that good with electrics but got it done now.

check out this program called DIYLC. It’s an open source program to test guitar wiring. It’s not perfect, and I’ve found a rare case where it didn’t recognize a working solution, but it’s excellent otherwise. Also that solution was uncommon so it made sense it wasn’t there. Breadboards are also useful for testing.

 

[TeeSee]

check out this program called DIYLC. It’s an open source program to test guitar wiring. It’s not perfect, and I’ve found a rare case where it didn’t recognize a working solution, but it’s excellent otherwise. Also that solution was uncommon so it made sense it wasn’t there. Breadboards are also useful for testing.

Thank you. I've just downloaded it. Didn't know there was such a thing, looks really useful for my next attempt!