Help with Pre-Gibson Trace Elliot Cab 4x8?

[BroKen]

Hi everyone,

This is my first time posting. I’m a very novice bass player and actually more of a guitar player (pls don’t kill me )

I’ve been practicing ampless and recording directly into my audio interface up until now.
Got the GAS to finally get an amp and I found this Trace Elliot cab for cheap.
I just went ahead and got it, thinking I could figure it all out later (which is not going well for me at the moment...)

The seller didn’t know anything at all about the cab and I’m very new to the subject.
From my very limited knowledge and research, I believe it is a 4x8 cab (Are they really all this big??) from the pre Gibson era since it is in Tolex?
The sticker on the back has faded, which I guess it typical, but is is it safe to assume that I should run an 8ohm amp through it?
Please correct me if I’m wrong.
I would love it if I could get any more info on this cab, even if it is insignificant.

Thanks so much in advance and apologies from my noobness.

Ken

P.S. I live in Japan, if that has anything to do with TE’s product distribution??

 

[BroKen]

Oops, forgot the photos...

 

[Wasnex]

I found a model 4808 that you can Google. AFAIK, this means 4x8 and 8 ohms.

I did not find a 4804.

This is not the normal format for TE cab. Usually it's driver size, number of drivers, impedance. For example 1048, 1028, 1528, 1524, etc.


Unfortunately it looks like at least one of the drivers in your cab is not original. If all four drivers share one chamber this is a pretty big problem. If the cab is built in two chambers, then each chamber needs a pair of matching drivers, and the weakest pair determines the power handling.

If the cab is ported, then all drivers must be compatible with the tuning.

As far as matching the cab to an amp. Tube amps should normally be connected to the expected load. Some tube amps only have one output tap, so the impedance is fixed. Some amps have multiple output taps with some sort of switching. So if you have an 8 ohm cab, you need a tube amp with an 8 ohm output. If you have a 4 ohm cab, you need a tube amp with a 4 ohm output.

Solid state amps are different. They have a minimum impedance. The load presente by the speaker can be at the minimum impedance or higher. For example if the amp is 4 ohms minimum, then you can hook it up to 4 ohms, 8 ohms, or 16 ohms. Usually as the impedance goes up the amp will make less power.

Some more modern solid-state amps have an impedance switch. Usually if the load is four ohms or higher you set to the switch to 4/8. If the load is lower than 4 ohms you set the switch to 2 ohms. So if you have three 8 ohm cabs the impedance will be 2.67 ohms and the switch on the amp should be set to 2 ohms.

In case you get an amp that is unusual, read the owner's manual.

Good luck and welcome to TalkBass.

 

[cheapbasslovin]

I found a model 4808 that you can Google. AFAIK, this means 4x8 and 8 ohms.

I did not find a 4804.

This is not the normal format for TE cab. Usually it's driver size, number of drivers, impedance. For example 1048, 1028, 1528, 1524, etc.


Unfortunately it looks like at least one of the drivers in your cab is not original. If all four drivers share one chamber this is a pretty big problem. If the cab is built in two chambers, then each chamber needs a pair of matching drivers, and the weakest pair determines the power handling.

If the cab is ported, then all drivers must be compatible with the tuning.

As far as matching the cab to an amp. Tube amps should normally be connected to the expected load. Some tube amps only have one output tap, so the impedance is fixed. Some amps have multiple output taps with some sort of switching. So if you have an 8 ohm cab, you need a tube amp with an 8 ohm output. If you have a 4 ohm cab, you need a tube amp with a 4 ohm output.

Solid state amps are different. They have a minimum impedance. The load presente by the speaker can be at the minimum impedance or higher. For example if the amp is 4 ohms minimum, then you can hook it up to 4 ohms, 8 ohms, or 16 ohms. Usually as the impedance goes up the amp will make less power.

Some more modern solid-state amps have an impedance switch. Usually if the load is four ohms or higher you set to the switch to 4/8. If the load is lower than 4 ohms you set the switch to 2 ohms. So if you have three 8 ohm cabs the impedance will be 2.67 ohms and the switch on the amp should be set to 2 ohms.

In case you get an amp that is unusual, read the owner's manual.

Good luck and welcome to TalkBass.

Ditto.

 

[BroKen]

I found a model 4808 that you can Google. AFAIK, this means 4x8 and 8 ohms.

I did not find a 4804.

This is not the normal format for TE cab. Usually it's driver size, number of drivers, impedance. For example 1048, 1028, 1528, 1524, etc.


Unfortunately it looks like at least one of the drivers in your cab is not original. If all four drivers share one chamber this is a pretty big problem. If the cab is built in two chambers, then each chamber needs a pair of matching drivers, and the weakest pair determines the power handling.

If the cab is ported, then all drivers must be compatible with the tuning.

As far as matching the cab to an amp. Tube amps should normally be connected to the expected load. Some tube amps only have one output tap, so the impedance is fixed. Some amps have multiple output taps with some sort of switching. So if you have an 8 ohm cab, you need a tube amp with an 8 ohm output. If you have a 4 ohm cab, you need a tube amp with a 4 ohm output.

Solid state amps are different. They have a minimum impedance. The load presente by the speaker can be at the minimum impedance or higher. For example if the amp is 4 ohms minimum, then you can hook it up to 4 ohms, 8 ohms, or 16 ohms. Usually as the impedance goes up the amp will make less power.

Some more modern solid-state amps have an impedance switch. Usually if the load is four ohms or higher you set to the switch to 4/8. If the load is lower than 4 ohms you set the switch to 2 ohms. So if you have three 8 ohm cabs the impedance will be 2.67 ohms and the switch on the amp should be set to 2 ohms.

In case you get an amp that is unusual, read the owner's manual.
Good luck and welcome to TalkBass.

Thanks so much for your input and the warm welcome!

I will definitely keep that info in mind when selecting an amp.
Looking at a pretty good deal on a Markbass Casa at the moment.
I’ll also follow up with a pic after opening the back.

Thanks again!

Ken

 

[agedhorse]

You need to be sure about what you really have, the drivers and how they are wired BEFORE connecting to any amp. What you have may not be what you think you have and could damage the amp.

 

[Merton]

I’m pretty sure that’s an early-mid 80s 4x10 is it not? Where did the suggestion of 8” drivers come from?

 

[BroKen]

You need to be sure about what you really have, the drivers and how they are wired BEFORE connecting to any amp. What you have may not be what you think you have and could damage the amp.

Thanks so much for the warning.
I have some experience in guitars so that was my assumption as well.

 

[BroKen]

I’m pretty sure that’s an early-mid 80s 4x10 is it not? Where did the suggestion of 8” drivers come from?

Very sorry if I'm wrong. I tried measuring the speaker from the front. It seemed to measure around 8", but 10" definitely makes more sense as the cab is much bigger than I imagined it would be.

 

[Wasnex]

Pretty sure they are 8s. Here is an image of a 4808
Link Removed

 

[Merton]

Pretty sure they are 8s. Here is an image of a 4808
Link Removed

I owned one of them, it’s from the mid 90s.
The OP’s cab is from the mid 80s when a 4x8 wasn’t in the range as far as I know.

Check this thread on Basschat as it has loads of vintage Trace brochures. The first post shows a Mk V 4x10 which looks remarkably similar to the OP’s cab.
Vintage Trace Elliot Brochures

 

[BroKen]

Thanks so much for your input everybody.

Update: I’ve yet to take the front off of it, but the bottom two drivers seem to be replaced with Yamahas.
I have yet to confirm it, but I’m guessing the top two and bottom two are in two different chambers?
Will let you guys know.

Cheers!

 

[BroKen]

Another update: I was measuring these with a messed up ruler...it looks like the drivers are actually 10 inches. Sorry about the confusion guys.

 

[Wasnex]

I owned one of them, it’s from the mid 90s.
The OP’s cab is from the mid 80s when a 4x8 wasn’t in the range as far as I know.

Check this thread on Basschat as it has loads of vintage Trace brochures. The first post shows a Mk V 4x10 which looks remarkably similar to the OP’s cab.
Vintage Trace Elliot Brochures

Op's cab on left, 4808 in the middle, 410 on right. All three grills are different.

 

[Wasnex]

Another update: I was measuring these with a messed up ruler...it looks like the drivers are actually 10 inches. Sorry about the confusion guys.

AFAIK they made 410s in both 4 and 8 ohms.

 

[BroKen]

AFAIK they made 410s in both 4 and 8 ohms.

Thanks for the info!
I guess I could buy a multimeter to measure the speaker impedance?

 

[Merton]

View attachment 4821505

Op's cab on left, 4808 in the middle, 410 on right. All three grills are different.

You’re right. It could be a Mk IV actually - that has a similar grille I think?
Vintage Trace Elliot Brochures

 

[Stewie]

If you use an ohmmeter, a 4 ohm cab will show something like 3 ohms, and an 8 ohm cab about 6. Mightier brains than mine could probably explain why.

 

[S-Bigbottom]

Update: I’ve yet to take the front off of it, but the bottom two drivers seem to be replaced with Yamahas.

It no longer matters what the cab model is anymore, you have a speaker swapped cab. That means you now have a box made by Trace Elliot but that is about all the Trace that is left in that cab.

Sorry, you bought someones mess.

Unlike guitar, bass speakers work like a piston and need to work together, the cabs are specifically sized and tuned to the performance of the speakers. Anything changes from how the manufacturer made it will result in it not performing as originally made.

Swaps can be good or bad, most of the time in the bass world they end in sadness as it takes matching and tuning the cabs.

You not having the same four speakers working together is a problem for the speakers, as they will no longer go in and out at the EXACT SAME TIME. This will result in the air pressure in the cab being wonky as the pistonic motion is not equal. A speaker will be pushed to blow.

Welcome to TalkBass and to Bass.
Sorry your first cab is a disaster.

 

[BroKen]

It no longer matters what the cab model is anymore, you have a speaker swapped cab. That means you now have a box made by Trace Elliot but that is about all the Trace that is left in that cab.

Sorry, you bought someones mess.

Unlike guitar, bass speakers work like a piston and need to work together, the cabs are specifically sized and tuned to the performance of the speakers. Anything changes from how the manufacturer made it will result in it not performing as originally made.

Swaps can be good or bad, most of the time in the bass world they end in sadness as it takes matching and tuning the cabs.

You not having the same four speakers working together is a problem for the speakers, as they will no longer go in and out at the EXACT SAME TIME. This will result in the air pressure in the cab being wonky as the pistonic motion is not equal. A speaker will be pushed to blow.

Welcome to TalkBass and to Bass.
Sorry your first cab is a disaster.

Thanks for your condolences

I’m not too bummed about it as I got it for dirt cheap (and you guys have pointed out why).
I’m alright for now as long as it’s usable at bedroom volumes since I’m going from without an amp to with an amp (albeit a crappy one). Something is better than nothing

But I’m very glad that I asked you all for your wisdom before going out and buying something more expensive that I may have regretted.

You all are so great, I may have to hang my guitar up and become a full time bassist now