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Double Bass Here is a new one, If Bridge is just a tiny bit too low, (no adjusters)..

bassfacer22

bassfacer22

Sep 3, 2011
1,709
445
North America NorthEast area..
#1
I had some bridges quickly made (due to time constraints and traveling), They work well but the more I use them, I notice It probably would be best if they were 1mm or a few higher.

There is no adjusters in these bridges and I didn't want to install adjusters in them, but is there anyway to slightly raise the strings?

For example putting paper or something in the nut slots of the strings to raise them up from the nut near the scroll?

What will that do if I play with folded paper in the nut slots under the strings?


That will raise strings from the top scroll nut instead of the Bridge slots. How will that affect the bass?

I need a temporary 3-month fix, and then I'll probably just get some new bridges made at a slightly higher height.
Thanks.

(I can get adjusters wheels installed but I'd rather not.)
 
#3
Raising at the nut will more or less just make the bass harder to play, specially in the first positions. Before I had adjusters, I more than once put 1 mm plywood under each bridge foot to raise the overall action slightly. Glued it on with carpenter glue (thats what it is called here in Denmark anyway). Trimmed the edges flush to the foot with a file. I took care to place some sandpaper upside down at the position of each foot, and rub each foot respectively a few times to adjust to top curvature.
This was all my own do it yourself-approach. A luthier could probably do something similar, better.
 
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#4
You had multiple bridges custom made? Why more than one? Very few luthiers make their own bridge blanks. Even very top guys. Did you properly fit the feet to the top? You want to raise the string height at the nut to compensate for too little height at the bridge? I respectfully submit that you might want to become a bit more aware of the details of modern setup practice.
 
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#5
bassfacer22 said:
I had some bridges quickly made (due to time constraints and traveling), They work well but the more I use them, I notice It probably would be best if they were 1mm or a few higher.

There is no adjusters in these bridges and I didn't want to install adjusters in them, but is there anyway to slightly raise the strings?

For example putting paper or something in the nut slots of the strings to raise them up from the nut near the scroll?

What will that do if I play with folded paper in the nut slots under the strings?


That will raise strings from the top scroll nut instead of the Bridge slots. How will that affect the bass?

I need a temporary 3-month fix, and then I'll probably just get some new bridges made at a slightly higher height.
Thanks.

(I can get adjusters wheels installed but I'd rather not.)
Click to expand...
There is no good reason to not have adjusters
 
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#6
The nut (slots) should only be raised if you get buzzing at the open string it does nothing to fingered notes except make pressing the strings down harder.
The best thing to raise your strings is putting hardwood shims between top and bridge. Better use several thin ones, because they can adapt better tithe curvature of the top. And you can use as many as needed to get to the best height.
 
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#10
Bill Merchant once told me that in every instance where a customer switched from aluminum to wood adjusters, he came back later and asked to have the aluminum ones put back in. They certainly do make the bass sound and respond differently than a solid bridge. The difference seems to be that with adjusters the bridge moves more with string vibrations. There is a Moser adjuster which goes to the extreme - connecting the stud to the wheel with a ball and socket. Anyway, the effect is positive for some and negative for others. Since moving to Europe, I've turned my adjusters maybe every five years. I'm thinking of trying out a solid bridge again.
 
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#11
Where I live, the weather changes so constantly that it seems like I could turn my adjusters every 20 minutes. Aluminum adjusters: decent results and sound at a fair price. Brass adjusters: like supergluing a 5 lb. brick to the bridge. Wooden adjusters: nice, maybe the best choice, somewhat pricey. For structure I like the large diameter ones, but that leaves very little room for error in the bridge feet. Titanium: interesting. I make my own as the commercial ones are crazy priced. Plastic / nylon /"delron"- extremely smooth turning but I had two sets break while sitting alone in the shop on a bass under tension, so there is no way in $#@! I would ever put these on my personal bass (this has been discussed before in previous threads). No adjusters: no room for error. If you have a neck that has been beefed up with carbon fiber and a stable top, it works great. If your bass is squirrely or you live with strong climate changes....good luck keeping anything constant.

A few years back, I noticed my that I was messing with the adjusters 3-4 times every gig. I switched back to a solid bridge primarily so that I would concentrate more on my technique and play through any perceived issues rather than obsessing on the setup. For me, it was one of the better decisions I have made on the gig- it seems like my playing adaptability is better and a bonus: less fussin' and more time for watching the ladies on the gig...!
 
#13
Until I got an adjustable neck, I had two bridges at different heights for my English bass. Works very well.
As for adjusters, one of the best basses I have ever tried was an English bass with brass adjusters. It was later changed to wood, by a luthier with very strong dogmatic opinions on best adjusters and after the change it lost a lot if its greatness. Adjusters change the sound, but what works on one bass is wrong for another. That being said, I quite like the ones Robertsons and Hachez use.
 
#14
Sorry Guys I'm just getting around to reading all your responses. I appreciate the answers.

1. I found that the solid bridges seem to allow me to get the better vibration needed for the mic pick up. Whether that is actually true or not, well, I just feel like the solid bridge helps.

2. The solid bridge appears to connect firmer and more stable in my mind, as I don't like the idea of the wood being pressed against the little pins in adjuster wheels. (if that makes sense)

3. I should try the shim on the feet.

4. What do you guys feel the realist pickup does to the sound when it's used under the E-bridge foot.
 
#15
I have just installed the Realist Wood on my bass. I do not feel it has taken away any volume from the sound. If anything, it introduces a bit of weight, that might lower the resonance, dampen the highs a bit. But really not much. That is acoustically. Through the amp, I think the Realists strength is a solid fundamental, and lower overtones. Looking forward to trying it outside my livingroom...
Btw, might as well get the wood version, to avoid scratching the bass, and avoid introducing metal in the "system". I must say though, that my (wood-)adjusters came in handy, because I could just lower the height on the E-side a turn or so, to compensate for the thickness of the pickup. Instead of moving the bridge slightly to keep strings centered, or taking away material from the foot...
Edit: You could shim the G side foot, and put a Realist under the E.
 
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