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Double Bass Hide glue not holding

You could also try fish glue. We use it at the shop I work at sometimes. It is stronger than hide glue I've found and still water soluble. Another plus is that it gives you a much longer work time than hide glue. We've had problems with seams not staying shut because the edging is really worn and roughed up, and fish glue has always solved the problem.

I've talked to high end cabinetry guys who used fish glue, and were surprised to hear that it was not widely exploited in luthiery. Are there any downsides compared to hide glue?
 
Okay thanks to all the tips I received there are no issues with the seams on this bass.

On another topic, the fingerboard I reglued came off. It was on for one week. I did everything I thought was neccessary, but I guess I'll have to do it again!!

mark
 
I've talked to high end cabinetry guys who used fish glue, and were surprised to hear that it was not widely exploited in luthiery. Are there any downsides compared to hide glue?

Yes, it is too strong for most applications. I would only use it for seems as a last resort and never for a fingerboard.
 
Two more quick thoughts.

(1) Is the open seam near the C bouts, particularly the bottom corner on the sound post side? Did you let down the string tension at all before trying to close?

(2) As well as warming the fingerboard before you glue it have you tried scratching Xs into the ebony with a sharp point to help adhesion?

DP
 
One of the first contacts I had with Hot Hide glue was when a friend (who specializes in artsy glass stuff) used it to produce obscure glass for a window, to allow light to pass, but to distort it badly enough to bar visibility. He painted the hot, strong hide glue onto one side of a pane of heavy plate glass, then simply slipped the pane into a padded envelope, and waited. As the glue cooled and dried (and shrank) one could hear the "ping! pinnnng!" as the glue pulled the surface off the pane of glass.

The result was a pane of glass with a surface similar to that of a chipped obsidian arrowhead.

No scratches are needed--just a smooth, flat, clean surface.
 
Hide glue does not fill gaps it just sticks to one side or the other or both without actually sticking the things together. As such scratching, etching, or toothing, creates more places for non adhesion than two well fitted wood pieces.
 
Typical story only a saxophone player can do moving my bass by the fingerboard ripping it right off the neck! If your board was glued on with some wood glue you must clean it off completely! If hide glue was used cleaning it right off is NOT that important just sand off protruding chunks, and make some soft wood buffers you will put between the clamps and the back of the neck and fingerboard! Soak the little nuggets for some time then make a nice gravy! Not too runny though I put the container in another container with water, boil it and keep your eyes open and nose shut! Stinky business!!! When its melted get some help so it doesn't slide. I also put support to the side too to keep is spot on! A brush you use should be clean, and you be fast but don't worry is does not set in a minute!!!! The glue you put on should be generous but not too much , put it together and the liquid hide glue will melt and merge with the existing hide glue, have someone to hold it in place while you make sure that it is absolutely where it should be, because the neck tapers when you put clams on it will slide down so be careful as there is no margin for error there! The displaced hide glue must be cleaned off immediately if you don't want to create extra work like I did. Strictly 24 hours drying time! Can't fail mate! Buy hide glue
in little ball form that you can mix and prepair do not use ready made liquid rubbish!!!! Good luck!