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Hipshot Rickenbacker bridge replacement

Sorry - I stand corrected. The bridge I got from hipshotproducts.com is SKU 5RK400BC (with a "B" for brass), not 5RK400AC (with an "A" for aluminum). I'll edit my post.

In any case, it was a different SKU from the products I saw on eBay.
 
Love the new bridge. For the first time I can use an old school foam mute like my P-bass. It changes the tone, of course, and changes the feel too, in a good way. The Ric is getting a lot more play time now.
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I just put a brass Hipshot replacement on a 2014 Ric 4003. All saddle heights raised up a bit, set the side-to-side screws, intonation, it's great. No rattles at all, surprised to read about that.

I did have to file the nut for the D string, went from Ric strings to DR Fat Beams.

Best thing I ever changed on it!
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Hipshot has individual string height adjustment screws on the bridge saddles. The stock bridge does not have this, and the stock bridge is also an absolute pain to set intonation. Hipshot is a modern bridge design and easy to setup.
 
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Can the string height be adjusted lower on the Hipshot than on the stock Ricky bridge?
With the Hipshot saddles bottomed out, I had to raise them to match the previous string height. In my case, I could have set them lower than the stock bridge. Plus, you set heights individually.

I'm not into fancy expensive bridges, but this one solves problems with the stock bridge and it was worth it. On Fender basses I go with Gotoh 201 or a Hipshot Kickass. In all cases, it's a direct replacement screw pattern. They just work.
 
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Just thought I'd add my review...

Just installed this a few days ago on my '76 4001. The original bridge, as anyone reading this knows is utter shite, just ridiculously bad design. I got interested in replacing mine because over the years the "tail lift" issue became worse and worse. The installation was a snap, mere minutes with the only alteration being that I had to cut the ground wire from the underside of the mute on the original bridge and make sure it was sandwiched under the new one. and this was my only quibble, since there's routing under the bridge to make room for the original saddle trough, it would be possible to have a solderable connection point underneath. Minor quibble to be sure. The adjustability of this bridge far exceeds the original. The look is aesthetically in line with the bass. I used it at a gig last night for the first time and wow, totally new experience. The sustain was just through the roof. The tone was much better than before. I'm assuming the tail lift issue was robbing me of some of that original chime. The feel is much more solid than with the original bridge. If I had other Rick's I'd be replacing the bridge on all of them! Since there were no modifications, I am saving the original for when my kids sell this bass at my estate sale, I'd never sell it now. Although anyone playing this bass would never dream of putting the original bridge back on it.
 
I just bought a new 4003 and am debating this bridge. Mostly because it has been suggested that it will counter balance the weight of the neck. The one and only time I played it live I debated switching to my jazz bass mid set so I wouldn't have to struggle holding up the neck. Does this solve the problem or am I just throwing more money at what for me will end up being an overall bad investment?
 
I just bought a new 4003 and am debating this bridge. Mostly because it has been suggested that it will counter balance the weight of the neck. The one and only time I played it live I debated switching to my jazz bass mid set so I wouldn't have to struggle holding up the neck. Does this solve the problem or am I just throwing more money at what for me will end up being an overall bad investment?

If that’s your only problem (ie, you like the existing bridge), there are other ways to counter neck dive. You can make
the body end heavier, for example, with a dive weight or a fishing weight or something.
 
What do you mean by dive weight? I have debated strapping a one or two pound weight to my strap, but something more permanent would be preferable. Then I can address that ring around the treble pickup with the screw that likes to chew up my hand.
 
I've got a problem with the hipshot Ric bridge.
the saddles screws are getting free from the vibrations when playing and the saddles go down and so does the action...
should i use Link Removed
which type? any other advise?
thanks.

Try using a bar soap or candle wax... I've softened the soap with a little warm water, or heat the wax slightly, then scrape some into the threads, set adjustment, let dry a hour or so, and it stays without permanently locking the threads. It eventually has to be redone, but lasts until you readjust things, then just soap it up again !!
 
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I have always been a original is better kina guy... But... after I purchased a used 72' Black Jazz w/maple neck a few years back, (the original Getty Lee... not a reissue) it came with a bad-ass brass bridge via the previous owner. My intention was find and put an original back on right away, after months of searching for a correct era bridge, and costs incurred, I was extremely disappointed with the original Fender Bridge, So I tried an aluminum replacement with disappointments as well. I think I heard more highs from the aluminum bridge, or may be??, or was it just because there was less lows, mids and punch. Well without a doubt, the Bad-Ass went right back on and has stayed on since. It has way more sustain, punch and definition playing live and in recordings. Using round wound strings I get as much highs and sharp/crisp upper mids as I want....
Just ordered a Hipshot Brass Bridge for my 73' 4001, Two fold... to correct a very slight bridge lift and the punch.... can't wait hear how she's gonna growl....
Let me put it this way... Brass, without a doubt, is way more Better!!!
 
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After years of debating I finally decided to pull the trigger and buy a hipshot for my 2010 Rick.
Well it finally arrived and I am NOT HAPPY! The saddles wobble and clank like crazy after I get my intonation and string height right. It's a sick joke. I even ordered it directly from Hipshot since it sounds like this was an issue that was solved with the newer models (if their ever were new ones). I'm going to try and put some clear plastic washers/bumpers between the saddles and see if it does the trick, but over all I'm NOT HAPPY:spit:
 
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After years of debating I finally decided to pull the trigger and buy a hipshot for my 2010 Rick.
Well it finally arrived and I am NOT HAPPY! The saddles wobble and clank like crazy after I get my intonation and string height right. It's a sick joke. I even ordered it directly from Hipshot since it sounds like this was an issue that was solved with the newer models (if their ever were new ones). I'm going to try and put some clear plastic washers/bumpers between the saddles and see if it does the trick, but over all I'm NOT HAPPY:spit:
Sounds like the saddle spacing set screws are not locked in place. I initially missed that step and wondered why the saddles were sliding all over.
 
Sounds like the saddle spacing set screws are not locked in place. I initially missed that step and wondered why the saddles were sliding all over.
I got the saddle spacers turned pretty tight. The saddles them selves keep coming off the rails when I play hard with fingers past the bridge pickup. No issues with playing with a pick, but I use my fingers 90% of the time so it's not really worth it. Messing with the spacing helps, but it's no where near good enough.