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Hipshot USA vs. Hipshot LIC - Ultralight

USA or LIC - Hipshot Ultralights


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Agreed, the Resolites are pure magic.
Considered them when replacing the old 70's style tuners on my parts PJ...went with Ultralites because Hipshot doesn't make lightweight Bass Xtenders for the Fender key the Resolites replace, and I figured three Resolites and a heavy Bass Xtender would be a lateral move with Ultralites weight-wise. Plus the Hipshots only require 4 extra holes drilled while the Resolites would require 16 :D But the Resolites were certainly tempting.

To answer the original question, though, now that I have basses with both Lic and USA Ultralites, I'm not finding that much of a difference. There's some because my Lic's have thinner posts than my USA's, but I could have been fine with either. I just didn't want to go on a wild bushing chase to fit the neck, so I got USA's.
 
Because the LICs aren't switchable side to side, if one moves parts around from one bass to another as I do, the USAs can be a better value.

I do also feel a quality difference between the two. Maybe not enough to count for the price difference, but it's there.

As for the number of screws and such, note that I only use the single screw Ultralights, the ones that are similar to regular small Gotohs.

As for Resolites, I use the [This invalid link has been removed]. Cheaper, lighter and a higher gear ratio than the hipshots.

And I use a Y key. This is all to keep the weight as low as possible. I have come to greatly prefer the look of a fender neck with Y keys. Those cloverleafs are just stupid big.

Edit: as for bushings, the GB350s are 14mm and will fit inside the standard Fender bushing, but you must also use the resolite screw bushing as well. You don't eliminate all the weight that way, but it's way easier to install.
 
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Edit: as for bushings, the GB350s are 14mm and will fit inside the standard Fender bushing, but you must also use the resolite screw bushing as well. You don't eliminate all the weight that way, but it's way easier to install.
If I'm paying for GB350 I want all the weight savings I paid for so I wouldn't leave the heavy Fender bushing on there. I make very lightweight sleeves and the GB350 are still under 40g even with the extra sleeve.
GB350_Sleeve.jpg
 
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If I'm paying for GB350 I want all the weight savings I paid for so I wouldn't leave the heavy Fender bushing on there. I make very lightweight sleeves and the GB350 are still under 40g even with the extra sleeve.
View attachment 3927407
I searched an industrial dealer for plastic bushings in the size required and use them.
I was simply commenting that using 14mm tuners with a fender tuner hole size was easy when retaining the fender bushings.
 
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I searched an industrial dealer for plastic bushings in the size required and use them.
I was simply commenting that using 14mm tuners with a fender tuner hole size was easy when retaining the fender bushings.
Cool! I didn't mean to be critical - I'm just obsessed with grams from my days with bicycles :roflmao:.
Did you end up needing to buy a large qty of bushings?
I was making mine with carbon fabric and epoxy for the first few I did and then made a few from aluminum beer cans cut into strips with scissors and rolled into rings (easier than the carbon fabric and more likely to be on hand). Then I noticed that the plastic rings on these eye drops are very close to the right size (you take the cap off and remove the ring and tighten the cap to pierce the seal). These worked great on the most recent install:
IMG_20200801_081436.jpg
 
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Cool! I didn't mean to be critical - I'm just obsessed with grams from my days with bicycles :roflmao:.
Did you end up needing to buy a large qty of bushings?
I was making mine with carbon fabric and epoxy for the first few I did and then made a few from aluminum beer cans cut into strips with scissors and rolled into rings (easier than the carbon fabric and more likely to be on hand). Then I noticed that the plastic rings on these eye drops are very close to the right size (you take the cap off and remove the ring and tighten the cap to pierce the seal). These worked great on the most recent install:
View attachment 3927593
I don't think I took that to be critical, in fact I agree with you.

I don't recall I had to buy a large quantity. Just what I needed to keep on hand.

As it turned out I kind of mismeasured and they're a little small. However, I believe pretty much anything one wants is out there if willing to spend time looking.

One other thing, guys have had success wrapping bushings with copper tape to fill the gap.
 
Back to Hipshot USA vs licensed ... I contacted Hipshot about my set of licensed tuners being loose fit and they sent me this set of bushings (appear to be aluminum, very light) that work perfectly to size the licensed hipshot 1/2" up to proper size. They are 15.6mm inside diameter (.614") and 17.76mm (.67") outside
View attachment 3927613
Didn't know they made those. Thanks!
 
USA ultralite and Licenced ultralite are totally different tuning machines...

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In some cases the Lic "Shiny Chrome" finish might be a closer match to other hardware on the bass than the "Shiny Nickel". Something to look at when making a decision.

Also I found that the US tuners can be a very tight fit on a MIM Fender replacement neck (Jazz). The ones I installed a couple of weeks ago have very small clearance between the key and the headstock. This is my first experience working with Hipshot tuners.

upload_2021-6-1_16-38-50.png
 
In some cases the Lic "Shiny Chrome" finish might be a closer match to other hardware on the bass than the "Shiny Nickel". Something to look at when making a decision.

Also I found that the US tuners can be a very tight fit on a MIM Fender replacement neck (Jazz). The ones I installed a couple of weeks ago have very small clearance between the key and the headstock. This is my first experience working with Hipshot tuners.

View attachment 4288024
Clover tuners are 5mm longer than the mini clover tuners. Go to the hipshot website, they have all the measurements for their hardware.
 
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Revisiting this thread because I bought the LIC's not knowing any better. It was way easier than I thought. Excuse my completely non-tech bumbling through this, but if I can do it.... #idiotproof

Wow, I've never seen anyone use a screwdriver that quickly! You have a gift!

Cool hardware update. Thought I eventually made my 76 P body back into a PJ, I did a similar J replacement in the early 80's with the P pickup using EMG J's. And I tried to make the neck fretless after botching learning how to install frets, and botched it, too. So congratulations for actually pulling that mod off!
 
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Hi guys. Just looking for a bit of advice.
I have just installed a set of Licensed Ultralites on my P bass.
When looking at the back of the headstock, part of the bushing is visible. The tuners are 1/2" but I bought the adaptor bushings so they fit snug in the 18mm hole, there's no movement at all, the fit is perfect. I believe what I did wrong was drill the pilot hole ever so slightly off.
I was just wondering if anyone could offer some advice on moving my pilot hole. I would have to fill it and it would then need to be re drilled so close it would be overlapping the original hole I drilled. Then there's the worry the drill will just slip back to the original hole. Anyone have any experience with this or or how to fix it? Many thanks!
 

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Hi guys. Just looking for a bit of advice.
I have just installed a set of Licensed Ultralites on my P bass.
When looking at the back of the headstock, part of the bushing is visible. The tuners are 1/2" but I bought the adaptor bushings so they fit snug in the 18mm hole, there's no movement at all, the fit is perfect. I believe what I did wrong was drill the pilot hole ever so slightly off.
I was just wondering if anyone could offer some advice on moving my pilot hole. I would have to fill it and it would then need to be re drilled so close it would be overlapping the original hole I drilled. Then there's the worry the drill will just slip back to the original hole. Anyone have any experience with this or or how to fix it? Many thanks!

I have installed these Licensed Ultralites on several Squier/Fender basses and always see that exposed bushing - maybe not quite as much as the one pictured but always a small bit. The back plate just isn't big enough to cover the oversized hole. If the tuning machine isn't obviously crooked (visually) I would leave it as it is personally. You need the USA ones if you want to fully cover the holes.

If you really want to fill it you can buy a small dowel, drill out the hole to the proper diameter, and glue it in with CA. If the diameter isn't too large you can trip the top of the filler with a razor blade to level it. I have used birch dowel but some others may be more readily available in your area.

Give it time to fully cure before drilling the new hole. Don't be surprised if after all that work you don't notice a huge difference though. You are trying to pull something over to one side of a hole but you stated it already has a sung fit, so it can't move very much.
 
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Hi guys. Just looking for a bit of advice.
I have just installed a set of Licensed Ultralites on my P bass.
When looking at the back of the headstock, part of the bushing is visible. The tuners are 1/2" but I bought the adaptor bushings so they fit snug in the 18mm hole, there's no movement at all, the fit is perfect. I believe what I did wrong was drill the pilot hole ever so slightly off.
I was just wondering if anyone could offer some advice on moving my pilot hole. I would have to fill it and it would then need to be re drilled so close it would be overlapping the original hole I drilled. Then there's the worry the drill will just slip back to the original hole. Anyone have any experience with this or or how to fix it? Many thanks!

I would just plug with a dowel rod...glued, of course...and snip the excess. I can always find the correct diameter at Lowe's, favorite arts & crafts store, or kifed from my wife's art studio. I've gone as far as to sand oversized stuff down to the correct diameter. As you noted, you want to pack it tightly so there's no blow-out when re-drilling.

Riis
 
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