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Thanks Map!
I did go back into your thread where you used them, and read your response to my question there. From your description, I made the decision to move forward with the Alumitone Bass Bar for the AfricanBacker. They now come in a Black anodized finish, which I think will look really good against the Black Limba.
Cheers
A little action here.
I started cutting out section of the FB for the inlays, and I realized that I needed more inlays than I cut, cuz I only cut 8 inlays. I think the neck would look a bit bare if it didn't have inlays the length of the neck. so I need some
I am looking for some Black Limba with an Orange streak in it for the FB inlays. If you got some/know of any, please let me know.
I started cutting out section of the FB for the inlays, and I realized that I needed more inlays than I cut, cuz I only cut 8 inlays. I think the neck would look a bit bare if it didn't have inlays the length of the neck. so I need some
I am looking for some Black Limba with an Orange streak in it for the FB inlays. If you got some/know of any, please let me know.
It's been a bit since I posted here
I went looking for some Black Limba with some orange streaking in it for the markers on the neck. Found it.
Still haven't decided on which direction I will be taking with the neck. To recap, The neck is just a tad too narrow to work with the bridge I was planning on using. My options are to make a new neck, (which would be cheaper), or buy a narrower bridge.
BTW, I'll be going back to work tomorrow, so it bye bye workshop, for the time being.
Cheers and thanks for watching.
I went looking for some Black Limba with some orange streaking in it for the markers on the neck. Found it.
Still haven't decided on which direction I will be taking with the neck. To recap, The neck is just a tad too narrow to work with the bridge I was planning on using. My options are to make a new neck, (which would be cheaper), or buy a narrower bridge.
BTW, I'll be going back to work tomorrow, so it bye bye workshop, for the time being.
Cheers and thanks for watching.
Hipshot type A bridges have adjustable string witness points, so you can easily narrow them up...
Yeah, the bridge I have has the same type of saddle piece, But it still won't give me what I would be looking for. Please note that this is going to be headless, so an A style bridge won't be of much help.
On a completely different note, got home from work today, made dinner, and immediately worked on the FB. Using my router, some straight edges, and my chisel, I hogged out sections for the FB markers.
Looking to make the markers tomorrow.
Thanks for looking.
Well, as things usually are, good ideas don't always turn out.
I went to make a "test" inlay with some leftover material this morning. Got the piece to fit very nice and snug. I went to wipe it down denatured alcohol to clean it off, and the piece turned very dark. So I mixed up a small batch of epoxy, and I get the same result. The little bit of orange color in the insert turned very dark, and cannot make it out anymore. Oh yeah, end grain acts like that. Ugggh! So now I have to take a step back to figure out how I'd like to do the inserts.
I went to make a "test" inlay with some leftover material this morning. Got the piece to fit very nice and snug. I went to wipe it down denatured alcohol to clean it off, and the piece turned very dark. So I mixed up a small batch of epoxy, and I get the same result. The little bit of orange color in the insert turned very dark, and cannot make it out anymore. Oh yeah, end grain acts like that. Ugggh! So now I have to take a step back to figure out how I'd like to do the inserts.
Have you tried a waterbased finish on them they don't usually amber it very much so it might not be as bad
I actually really like the way it looks - its subtle but still contrasts somewhat...
And you have to keep in mind that the black wood is going to get blacker as well when you put epoxy on it.
- Jul 1, 2005
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Here's what I'd use:
It's transparent and will fill that end grain without obscuring the pattern. You may have to test to see how long to leave it before wiping off but that's how finishing works.
Here's the same stuff tinted over maple (on top) and alder (below) nitro lacquer topcoat:
It's transparent and will fill that end grain without obscuring the pattern. You may have to test to see how long to leave it before wiping off but that's how finishing works.
Here's the same stuff tinted over maple (on top) and alder (below) nitro lacquer topcoat:
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@Will_White - I don't have any H2O based products on hand right now, but I would imagine that the wood would react in a similar manner with the denatured alcohol, and it just got real dark. I'll get some and try a test piece.
@Beej - It does have a nice look to it. Maybe just a tad too dark for my tastes. I was looking for a little more contrast. If you look in the pic below I'd be able to still get Black Limba inserts. I'd use the sections where you see the growth rings only. I think that will give me the contrast I'd be looking for. I also have other options, like Bird Eye Maple. Imitation Ivory comes to mind as well.
Note to Self: If I use the Black Limba for inserts, be sure to seal the wood thoroghly. If I don't, I'll probably get bubbles when I do the epoxy pour.
You had to go do that now didn't you. I REALLY like the Mary Kay look, and now that you planted this seed, I have the urge to do that color finish, or, maybe put that on top of some limed mahogany.
@Beej - It does have a nice look to it. Maybe just a tad too dark for my tastes. I was looking for a little more contrast. If you look in the pic below I'd be able to still get Black Limba inserts. I'd use the sections where you see the growth rings only. I think that will give me the contrast I'd be looking for. I also have other options, like Bird Eye Maple. Imitation Ivory comes to mind as well.
Note to Self: If I use the Black Limba for inserts, be sure to seal the wood thoroghly. If I don't, I'll probably get bubbles when I do the epoxy pour.
Here's what I'd use:
It's transparent and will fill that end grain without obscuring the pattern. You may have to test to see how long to leave it before wiping off but that's how finishing works.
Here's the same stuff tinted over maple (on top) and alder (below) nitro lacquer topcoat:
You had to go do that now didn't you. I REALLY like the Mary Kay look, and now that you planted this seed, I have the urge to do that color finish, or, maybe put that on top of some limed mahogany.
Yeah, the things that I have tried haven't turned out. I suspect that if water changes the color, anything water based will as well. But this is an assumption.
I saw what you posted over in @mapleglo 's thread. I have had the URL for the MOP chunks saved for quite some time. I will probably be ordering some of that stuff.
One of my test pieces was birdeye maple, but if I did that, Would it still be an Africanbacker?
Got home from work a little early today. I had a present in the mail. Didn't take me long to work something up
I used the MOP flakes from Fire Mountain
I'm likin this!
Thanks @Gilmourisgod
I used the MOP flakes from Fire Mountain
I'm likin this!
Thanks @Gilmourisgod
Yeah, I am too. I did 2 different samples. I completely filled one of the cavities. and the other cavity, I filled it half way. I'll go back in a little while and fill the rest of it up with epoxy. We'll see what the difference turns out to be
