I've never used anything but stainless (rotos and DR hi beams) on my '99 P and I'd say I has a rather aggressive touch, and I don't notice any fret wear at all. the bass still plays like the day I got it.
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How bad is fret wear with stainless strings?
- Thread starter madbassplaya
- Start date
Hope you can rest easier now..oh by the way, the Easter Bunny doesn't exist (except in my head)...Santa works at the mall, not the North Pole....and the cake is a lie. 
Anything that's put to use is going to wear down in time. When I use to gig full time (5 nights a week for years) I used Rotosounds. I use to have to take my bass in about once every year and a half to have the frets filed even.
These days my only gig is once a month at church! I use DR Nickel Lo Riders on my AM STD 5 string, DR Fat Beams on my 4 string Jazz and GHS Progressives on my P bass. At this rate I'll probably be on my deathbed before I'd need any kind of fretwork done!
These days my only gig is once a month at church! I use DR Nickel Lo Riders on my AM STD 5 string, DR Fat Beams on my 4 string Jazz and GHS Progressives on my P bass. At this rate I'll probably be on my deathbed before I'd need any kind of fretwork done!
Lotta potential here for the propagation of urban myths & legends, old wives' tales, and the like... 
Just a few informational tidbits to consider:
1) Contrary to conventional "wisdom", DR strings are not typical roundwounds. They are compression-wound strings (look it up), which is the reason they are so much easier on your frets. Feel the difference between stainless steel DRs, and Rotosounds, Blue Steels, and the like? Your frets sure do...
2) Although I have not (yet) tried them myself, Dunlop nickel rounds are reputed to be exceptionally bright & lively for nickel strings - even more so than Dunlop stainless steels. If you crave the brightness of steels, but want the relative "softness" of nickels, the Dunlop nickels might just be the ticket.
3) There are a number of other nickel roundwound strings that also do a reasonable job at approximating the tone of stainless steel. One I have tried - and recommend - is GHS Boomer 52s. One I have not (yet) tried is Sadowsky nickels. I'm sure there are others that fit the bill. Go experiment.
4) If all else fails, consider having your nickel-alloy frets replaced with stainless steel-alloy frets. Yes, the job is relatively expensive - but it may be worth it. All my fretted bass guitars currently have stainless steel frets. I am not worried in the least about fret wear anymore.
MM
Just a few informational tidbits to consider:
1) Contrary to conventional "wisdom", DR strings are not typical roundwounds. They are compression-wound strings (look it up), which is the reason they are so much easier on your frets. Feel the difference between stainless steel DRs, and Rotosounds, Blue Steels, and the like? Your frets sure do...
2) Although I have not (yet) tried them myself, Dunlop nickel rounds are reputed to be exceptionally bright & lively for nickel strings - even more so than Dunlop stainless steels. If you crave the brightness of steels, but want the relative "softness" of nickels, the Dunlop nickels might just be the ticket.
3) There are a number of other nickel roundwound strings that also do a reasonable job at approximating the tone of stainless steel. One I have tried - and recommend - is GHS Boomer 52s. One I have not (yet) tried is Sadowsky nickels. I'm sure there are others that fit the bill. Go experiment.
4) If all else fails, consider having your nickel-alloy frets replaced with stainless steel-alloy frets. Yes, the job is relatively expensive - but it may be worth it. All my fretted bass guitars currently have stainless steel frets. I am not worried in the least about fret wear anymore.
MM
Little bit of pressure, but lots of time in the bag, just grinding away. And it's not just gig bags, but cases too. Try placing a polish cloth in between your strings and board up near the nut when you pack it up. Someone told me that years ago after I had mentioned the wear I was seeing on my first few frets on my '92 MIA Jazz. It is exhibiting no more fret wear than when I started doing it. I've played SS on it for 75% of the time that I've owned it.
Now, I'll say this...... I only started doing it because I love DR SS LoRiders on that jazz, and I figured, heck, it's worth a shot. And since I'm not seeing any more fret wear, then there just might be something to it.
I have owned my bass for fifteen years. I use stainless because I have a nickle allergy. My bass has seen it's fair share of different brands of stainless strings. I used Blue Steels for quite a few years before settling with DR Hibeams.
I have had the frets dressed once in that time period. My tec said all was well with my frets. Minor wear but visible. I consider myself a hard hitter when it comes to plucking.
It may have more to do with what frets that are installed on your instrument then the strings you use.
I have had the frets dressed once in that time period. My tec said all was well with my frets. Minor wear but visible. I consider myself a hard hitter when it comes to plucking.
It may have more to do with what frets that are installed on your instrument then the strings you use.
OP,FYI, Pedulla offers Nickels w/tapered B & E.
I have no experience w/stainless.
Too bright for me.
I have no experience w/stainless.
Too bright for me.
I agree with all the others who note heavy handedness with fretting and grinding strings into for holding notes as main thing that causes problems for fret wear time. A person with good technique should be able to use rotosound swing66 for many yrs on any bass with high qaulity frets, pref jumbo. High qaulity frets are not often found on cheapo basses. those tend to have soft low grade metal for the frets.
