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how can i set up my 3 point bridge from epiphone
- Thread starter claudioggg
- Start date
My solution is to replace the 3 point entirely. Worst bass bridge design in history! The Hipshot replacement is AWESOME! They fit Epiphones and Gibsons.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,008
- 1
- 31,707
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
History disagrees. The two-point that preceded it was worse.
And the one-piece stamped steel bridge that was on Gibson’s first instruments was abysmal.
(Images and history courtesy of Fly Guitars: Gibson bass guitar bridges, bridge covers and mutes)
The three-point isn’t bad. It’s quite sturdy. You can adjust height in two axes, and adjust intonation for each string. What you can’t adjust is individual string height. The solution is filing the notches in the saddles. No biggie.
History disagrees. The two-point that preceded it was worse.
View attachment 3746651
And the one-piece stamped steel bridge that was on Gibson’s first instruments was abysmal.
(Images and history courtesy of Fly Guitars: Gibson bass guitar bridges, bridge covers and mutes)
The three-point isn’t bad. It’s quite sturdy. You can adjust height in two axes, and adjust intonation for each string. What you can’t adjust is individual string height. The solution is filing the notches in the saddles. No biggie.
You got me on those earlier bridges. Yikes! I still think Hipshot has come up with a vastly superior bridge that drops right in.
Make sure the front end is higher than the rear, this will help eliminate lift. Doesn’t need to be drastic.
Other than that, set intonation and action, and you’re good to go.
Other than that, set intonation and action, and you’re good to go.
Uhhh…. sorry, but no they aren't. In fact, if you get solid contact on all three posts - which, sadly, is all too often not the case - the 3 pointer works quite well. I'll agree that, if you're a constant fiddler and string changer, they aren't exactly the ideal bridge for you. But then, neither is the stock Rickenbacker bridge. In fact, they're probably worse. OTOH, I'm not a person who messes with my bridges a lot, so AFAIC, they work just fine. But, worst bridge in history? Hate to burst your bubble, but;
Not even close. I know, 'cause I have basses with each of these bridges - and 2 Ricks. Also a couple of 3 pointers, which are a lot easier to deal with...
Uhhh…. sorry, but no they aren't. In fact, if you get solid contact on all three posts - which, sadly, is all too often not the case - the 3 pointer works quite well. I'll agree that, if you're a constant fiddler and string changer, they aren't exactly the ideal bridge for you. But then, neither is the stock Rickenbacker bridge. In fact, they're probably worse. OTOH, I'm not a person who messes with my bridges a lot, so AFAIC, they work just fine. But, worst bridge in history? Hate to burst your bubble, but;
View attachment 3748694 View attachment 3748695 View attachment 3748696 Not even close. I know, 'cause I have basses with each of these bridges - and 2 Ricks. Also a couple of 3 pointers, which are a lot easier to deal with...
I usually play Fender Basses, so to me, the Gibson 3 point bridge is a nightmare. I dislike it and most things about Gibson bridges in general. That said, I have a Gibson bass (Les Paul Jr. Tribute) that had the 3 point bridge, and the string height was all over the place brand new. It couldn't be fixed by merely 3 points of adjustment. I would have needed a file. The Hipshot was worth the money. I don't like to mess with my bridge a lot either, but that 3 pointer was all kinds of wrong from the factory.
I have a Harmony H-22 that has a bridge much like your first picture, and it's a breeze. It is all rosewood other than the height adjusters, and the slots for the strings were filed perfectly in 1962. The entire bridge isn't attached to the body. That's the only hard part about it. So, I move it around until the intonation was correct, and then used a piece of two sided tape to keep it there. Done. Less work than re-filing the slot in a few saddles, and picking up all the pieces that fall out of the 3 pointer every time I change strings.
So, Uhhh... sorry, the 3 pointer is the worst bridge ever made as far as I'm concerned. Gibson is supposed to be a top notch company, and charge an insanely high price for most of their instruments. They could at least design a bridge that seems like they thought logically about it.
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It sounds like you had the saddles in the wrong position. They're different heights (to match the neck radius); that's really the only thing that could put the string height "all over the place" - other than somebody going nutso with a file, or the bridge just being broken. I have one that came to me like that. Those saddles had little numbers on them; instead of running 1,2,3,4 from the G string, they were installed (IIRC) 3,1,2,4. And then had the notches cut as if they were in the right position. And, yes, my string height was messed up. Gibson does sell uncut replacement saddle sets, and they're quite easy to install and set up. But, I didn't feel like bothering. I just grit my teeth; got out my needle files; and fixed them. Once they were put where they should have been in the first place, they worked just fine - and still do. I'll certainly agree that it shouldn't have come to me like that - especially for what a left handed Gibson costs; but that isn't the bridge's fault. That's on the Inspector. The 3-point bridge certainly is not the Alpha and Omega of bridge design; but assuming it's assembled correctly, it does what it's supposed to do. Of course you should do what makes you happy, but...personally? I'm not about to spend money in a fit of pique, or to replace something that I can fix in 30 minutes with a screwdriver and a couple of needle files...
History disagrees. The two-point that preceded it was worse.
View attachment 3746651
And the one-piece stamped steel bridge that was on Gibson’s first instruments was abysmal.
(Images and history courtesy of Fly Guitars: Gibson bass guitar bridges, bridge covers and mutes)
The three-point isn’t bad. It’s quite sturdy. You can adjust height in two axes, and adjust intonation for each string. What you can’t adjust is individual string height. The solution is filing the notches in the saddles. No biggie.
Yeah, I'd say that Ric's bridges are definitely worse, and same thing with the original 2 saddle bridge on the earliest Fender Ps... IME, Gibson's 3 point bridge typically requires a little careful filing to precisely match each bass's neck radius, after that they're good to go...
It sounds like you had the saddles in the wrong position. They're different heights (to match the neck radius); that's really the only thing that could put the string height "all over the place" - other than somebody going nutso with a file, or the bridge just being broken. I have one that came to me like that. Those saddles had little numbers on them; instead of running 1,2,3,4 from the G string, they were installed (IIRC) 3,1,2,4. And then had the notches cut as if they were in the right position. And, yes, my string height was messed up. Gibson does sell uncut replacement saddle sets, and they're quite easy to install and set up. But, I didn't feel like bothering. I just grit my teeth; got out my needle files; and fixed them. Once they were put where they should have been in the first place, they worked just fine - and still do. I'll certainly agree that it shouldn't have come to me like that - especially for what a left handed Gibson costs; but that isn't the bridge's fault. That's on the Inspector. The 3-point bridge certainly is not the Alpha and Omega of bridge design; but assuming it's assembled correctly, it does what it's supposed to do. Of course you should do what makes you happy, but...personally? I'm not about to spend money in a fit of pique, or to replace something that I can fix in 30 minutes with a screwdriver and a couple of needle files...
I hear ya. I just like to be able to adjust the individual saddle heights. If there's an easy drop in replacement bridge that will do that, I will buy it and use it instead. I like Hipshot stuff better than most hardware in general, so I go with that. I was able to remove the 3 point bridge, install the Hipshot bridge AND set it up in about 10 minutes.
My 3 point bridge came to me brand new all out of whack. There were no numbers on the saddles, and I really didn't feel like filing the slots.
Not trying to hijack the thread but what if mine is already starting to pull out? The rear insert on the treble side is pulling out. I haven't played this bass in years. I bought it new because I wanted a T bird, so in 2013 I bought the Limited Edition silver TV Epi Tbird. I like the tone but the action/string height was really high, to high for me. I didn't have a string height gauge but figured if I just lowered all screws in equal amounts till I got it where I wanted it and no fret buzz that would be good. Well I stupidly leveled the bridge. Tuned back up to standard tuning. Got up this morning and the insert that the screw threads into pulled partially out. This has never happened before on this bass, not till I messed with the bridge. I lossened the strings, tapped it back in and tilted the bridge up in the front. Retuned to standard tuning and it partially pulled out again. Now what do I do? Worried I screwed something up
Thinking of getting a replacement hipshot bridge when I get some extra money. Lost my job so money is real tight right now, so anything I can do to temporarily fix it would be great. Thanks.
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- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,008
- 1
- 31,707
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
If your insert is loose, then it will also impact the Hipshot bridge.
Remove the insert, smear some wood glue down into the hole, covering all of the sides, and press the insert back in. Reassemble tomorrow.
Remove the insert, smear some wood glue down into the hole, covering all of the sides, and press the insert back in. Reassemble tomorrow.
This. With a caveat: make sure you check for a ground wire of it’s the treble side insert and you don’t end up covering it with glue insulating from the insert.
