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How do I repair this chip in my neck?

tastybasslines

tastybasslines

Inactive
May 9, 2010
2,216
1,384
Los Angeles, CA
#1
Thanks in advance.

IMG_20140928_145421_419_zps50e989d8.jpg
 
#2
As far as I can see, only the finish was damaged, wasn't it? I do not consider myself an expert on the subject, but, I don't think it is a really serious issue. Either way, if you want it fixed, I think you would just have to put a layer of finish on it.
 
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#3
If you do it very carefully, you can repair it yourself. First pick off any tiny fragments that are left in that opening, but don't pick away at the edges. Use some water-thin cyanoacrylate (super glue) and add a drop at a time all around the edges of the void, it will wick under the edges that are likely not adhering well to the wood. Let that dry for a few minutes or hit it with a drop of hardener. If you use the accelerator, wait a few seconds then use a paper towel to remove the hardener.

Then drop in a few drops of medium viscosity CA. Let that harden (say 15 minutes or so) then a few more drops, let dry, and continue until the CA is slightly higher than the surrounding finish. Let that harden for an hour or two - probably longer is better, you want to make sure it is fully cured. Then you can level it with a super-fine cut small file - I like to use spark plug files for work like this. Bring the CA down until it is just level with the surrounding finish. Then you can proceed with fine sandpapers starting at about 600 grit and going finer to 2000 or finner. Back the sandpaper with heavy felt or leather or something else of like flexibility. A final wet sanding at the finest grit will likely leave a satin finish that will result in an almost invisible repair.

If this sounds like it's more than you can handle, seek out someone that sees this as routine. If done well the repair will be invisible to the naked eye. But don't just leave it. It will get worse unless it's attended to.
 
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#4
Am I viewing this correctly in that it looks like wood is missing? It looks like a small sliver of wood from the rounded edge is missing.

No real "fixing" that short of minor surgery, to which I'd just stabilize the finish as described above and call it mojo...otherwise, if my monitor is just crap and it's just a finish chip, then yeah...Turnaround's fix is pretty excellent.
 
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#6
altarsofmadness said:
As far as I can see, only the finish was damaged, wasn't it? I do not consider myself an expert on the subject, but, I don't think it is a really serious issue. Either way, if you want it fixed, I think you would just have to put a layer of finish on it.
Click to expand...
Yeah, only the finish got chipped.

Turnaround said:
If you do it very carefully, you can repair it yourself. First pick off any tiny fragments that are left in that opening, but don't pick away at the edges. Use some water-thin cyanoacrylate (super glue) and add a drop at a time all around the edges of the void, it will wick under the edges that are likely not adhering well to the wood. Let that dry for a few minutes or hit it with a drop of hardener. If you use the accelerator, wait a few seconds then use a paper towel to remove the hardener.

Then drop in a few drops of medium viscosity CA. Let that harden (say 15 minutes or so) then a few more drops, let dry, and continue until the CA is slightly higher than the surrounding finish. Let that harden for an hour or two - probably longer is better, you want to make sure it is fully cured. Then you can level it with a super-fine cut small file - I like to use spark plug files for work like this. Bring the CA down until it is just level with the surrounding finish. Then you can proceed with fine sandpapers starting at about 600 grit and going finer to 2000 or finner. Back the sandpaper with heavy felt or leather or something else of like flexibility. A final wet sanding at the finest grit will likely leave a satin finish that will result in an almost invisible repair.

If this sounds like it's more than you can handle, seek out someone that sees this as routine. If done well the repair will be invisible to the naked eye. But don't just leave it. It will get worse unless it's attended to.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I understand exactly what you are saying to do and am fully capable to do it, except, what is "CA" as in medium viscosity CA? Cyanoacrylate? Is CA short for that?
 
#11
Turnaround said:
If you do it very carefully, you can repair it yourself. First pick off any tiny fragments that are left in that opening, but don't pick away at the edges. Use some water-thin cyanoacrylate (super glue) and add a drop at a time all around the edges of the void, it will wick under the edges that are likely not adhering well to the wood. Let that dry for a few minutes or hit it with a drop of hardener. If you use the accelerator, wait a few seconds then use a paper towel to remove the hardener.

Then drop in a few drops of medium viscosity CA. Let that harden (say 15 minutes or so) then a few more drops, let dry, and continue until the CA is slightly higher than the surrounding finish. Let that harden for an hour or two - probably longer is better, you want to make sure it is fully cured. Then you can level it with a super-fine cut small file - I like to use spark plug files for work like this. Bring the CA down until it is just level with the surrounding finish. Then you can proceed with fine sandpapers starting at about 600 grit and going finer to 2000 or finner. Back the sandpaper with heavy felt or leather or something else of like flexibility. A final wet sanding at the finest grit will likely leave a satin finish that will result in an almost invisible repair.

If this sounds like it's more than you can handle, seek out someone that sees this as routine. If done well the repair will be invisible to the naked eye. But don't just leave it. It will get worse unless it's attended to.
Click to expand...

I've done this and it works like a charm! If done correctly, you'll barely notice it.

Good luck!
 
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#12
You really do want the almost water thin viscosity stuff for sealing the edges
before final filling.

Some recommendations for small amounts of the really thin stuff could be useful.
I don't need it myself, but others may have the same trouble I did finding some.

All I could find locally was the heavier CA, so I wound up buying an ounce of Loctite 420
from McMaster Carr. Pretty expensive, but kept cold, it''ll be years before I have to
buy more. I also use it to form new ends on boot laces.

-
 
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#14
JustForSport said:
Stew-Mac:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Click to expand...

This is what I use...don't forget to snag some whip-tips! StewMac also sells starter packs of foam-backed micro mesh pads which are perfect for a first-timer. Keep in mind that CA has a mind of its own (...especially the thin stuff) and the wicking effect is dependent up gravity, surface tension, surface porosity, topography, and nature of the surrounding surfaces. Proper prep is a must as Turnaround pointed out earlier. Practice on a piece of scrap wood or that antique rocking chair downstairs first.

Riis
 
#15
I actually used regular superglue, the non-gel kind.

I would put some on a piece of cardboard or heavy stock paper and use a toothpick to drop in a drop or two every morning for a few days until the spot was filled. Then I used micro mesh sanding sticks to work it back to a shine. The micro sticks go from coarse (1500) to very fine (12000). I found them at a woodwork shop. I think stewmac has them.

You can polish even more if desired.
 
#16
JustForSport said:
You can get different grades of CA (super glue) at Stew-Mac, for one.
Click to expand...
Just take a trip to your friendly neighborhood hobby shop and ask one of the friendly counter minions to point you to their Bob Smith rack. If it turns out they are the only hobby shop in America without a BS rack, they will have some other brand(s) of CA. Get the smallest container available as it has crappy shelf life after it's opened and it can be spendy. DO NOT go to your friendly home labyrinth or AllMart and pick up whatever brand of "super glue" they offer, it's most likely not the same as CA and if it is the quality will not be as good.

http://www.bsi-inc.com/
 

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