How do you keep strings untwisted when stringing through the body?

[GIBrat51]

This is exactly how I've always thought of the thru-body option and its main benefit. From the structural standpoint, I like the idea of the pulling weight of the strings being supported by the body itself instead of all the stress being on the screws holding the bridge in place.

No perceivable improvement or significant difference either in terms of tonal quality or stiffness/flexibility otherwise.

Yes, that - IMO - is the only real advantage. And, if the bass was a string-thru with a body made of, say, basswood? That's the way I would string it; optional or not...

 

[alembicguy]

No it isn't. I've had strings that I thought were dead out of the box, then I read about them twisting on the install, re-installed without a twist, and they came back to life.

This^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[2saddleslab]

Yes, that - IMO - is the only real advantage. And, if the bass was a string-thru with a body made of, say, basswood? That's the way I would string it; optional or not...

String thru on basswood.

 

[Jonithen]

My method:

Pull string through body. Insert into tuner, make the 90 degree bend. Now I make sure that the slot in the tuning key is vertical, so I do my bend straight towards the bridge and not to the side. I keep tension between tuning peg and about 3-5 inches as I wind the string. Periodically run hand down the length of the string giving any twists a chance to smooth out. If necessary, push the ball end out a bit to give it a chance to rotate.

I make sure to work with any kind of bend in the tuner end that's left from the string being coiled in its pack. There's usually a discernable curl and I make sure that the arc is in line with the speaking length of the string.

No twist, no kink. Only stress is if I cut the right string length for my preferred 2.5 winds.

 

[JimmyM]

Something I've experienced with my 2014 Am Std with the stock high-mass bridge...

If the string ends up being twisted during installation, it's trickier to correct it when top-loaded than thru-body. The reason for that is the way the ball ends sit recessed in a fixed position without being able to spin around when top-loaded on this particular bridge.

View attachment 3694830

I ditched my 09 AmStd P's hi-mass bridge for the American Deluxe "bent plate" style bridge they used to use. Wasn't for that reason by any means, but now that you mention it, that does happen. Not too hard to overcome, though.

 

[Salem6127]

Something I've experienced with my 2014 Am Std with the stock high-mass bridge...

If the string ends up being twisted during installation, it's trickier to correct it when top-loaded than thru-body. The reason for that is the way the ball ends sit recessed in a fixed position without being able to spin around when top-loaded on this particular bridge.

View attachment 3694830

One of my basses has a bridge similar to this that also demands the ball ends sit flat without rotation. Any tips for preventing string twist?

 

[TheArchitect]

My method: Put a 90 degree bend in the string at the required length and cut the excess string about 3/4" beyond the bend. Run string thru the bridge and insert it into the tuning post. I hold the string just south of the tuning post like a "sideways pistol" and extend and press the string down with my first finger near the post insuring the string winds down. The slack is at the bridge end and is taken up as I wind the tuning key. Once the string has a bit of tension I let go of the "pistol grip". No twists and the string is wound at the bottom of the tuning post. Makes for a happy string.

Edit: if you're going thru the body, do the bend and excess cut after that, leave the slack at the bridge/body, and do the pistol grip thing.

Is this not how everyone does this? Its how I have always done it, string through or otherwise. I still am not sure how the OP was stringing his bass.

 

[Watchootognbout]

I do not loop the string around the post with by hand before winding with a winder.
I do what ahc does.