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How do you replace a nut?

jmattbassplaya

jmattbassplaya

Supporting Member
Jan 13, 2008
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#1
The title basically says it all.

I'm looking to replace my current nut on my bass with one cut for BEAD tuning and I'd like to be professional with it so that I don't damage the bass or the old nut.

Thanks!
 
#3
You get a nut blank (I use bone), then work it to the proper thickness - a tight fit is what you are aiming for. Then lay out the rough contour, slightly oversized, and cut the blank to that. I then would fit onto the bass (don't glue it yet) and lay out the outer two string locations to you preference from the fingerboard edge. Before cutting any slots I would use a graduated string-spacing rule to lay out the other slot locations. I use a knife to mark in the locations. I go back with a saw with a kerf of about 20 thou and start each of the slots with a few strokes. This gives a good registration point for the files that follow.

Next I would take a nut slotting file of the appropriate gauge, and start working the slots down to a bit above final level. The next step for me is to then start working the top of the nut down to a level where half of the B-string diameter is below the top of the nut, but most of the D-string is below the top. I would then remove the nut gradually cut is to length, by filing a bit at a time and checking frequently until it is a perfect fit. Next I do final shaping and polishing of the surfaces. Then glue the nut in place, using the strings as the clamping method, set it aside for the glue to dry. Once dry, it's back to the graduated slot files to bring them to the precise height, checking every two or three strokes. Finally, polish the nut slots, tune up, and rock on.
 
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#4
Excellent overview!

What Turnaround didn't mention is the cost of the tools.

A small hobby saw will do what you need. An Exacto saw or the like is ten dollars or so. Precision nut files will set you back fifty to one hundred dollars depending on where you buy them and how many you need. Sizing the blank so that the walls are parallel and square to one another is done on a flat plate. Quarter inch plate glass will work. Granite surface plates are wonderful. If you're resourceful you might be able to cobble together some plate glass on a piece of plywood for next to nothing. Otherwise, figure fifteen to fifty. Sandpaper in various grits are a couple of bucks. Polishing requires compounds, maybe a wheel and motor, or Micromesh. At a minimum ten to twenty dollars at the auto parts store for the compounds. Much more if electricity will be required. None of this includes trips to the store, tax, or shipping.

All estimates are in 2017 dollars.

Experience is purchased with your time.

Here's a good tip: Buy two blanks. You may want an extra.
 
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#5
Oh, I forgot to mention how to seat the nut. It's pretty straight forward if the nut slot is flat, but many are curve-bottomed. In the first case it's just a matter of lapping it on a flat plate ( I use a precision ground granite slab), but a bit more involved if the slot bottom is curved. In this case I would lap it against the fretboard, but only after I confirmed that the nut slot was actually the same radius as the fretboard - most are, and if they aren't I usually recut the nut slot.
 
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#9
After you pay for a set of nut files you could spend as much as a pro job. But if you want to learn, that's cool. Is this a one off? how often do you actually need a set of nut files unless you are constantly working on new projects?

I am TERRIBLE with files and send my frets and nuts out to be done so I don't shred the board up. My luthier charges $45 for a nut and it's done in two or three hours. In fact last time he charged me $70 for a nut and level, crown polish! I felt he was selling himself short and gave him $100 so he could buy lunch for himself and his wife at least! I do get preference from him because it's a 100 mile trip to see him and it doesn't take much time away from his in town jobs.
 
#10
If you want to experiment, you can do it yourself, but you'll need some tools. Also, depending on the material it can be more time consuming. Brass or aluminum is harder to work with, and will not break. Bone and other composite are easier to shape but can break if the string slots are not sized right.
 

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