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How Gnarly will my Tone Be? *SUNN Content

#45
Mr. Foxen said:
Man, fully got a scale of gnarly in my head now, makes so much sense. I gonna write a blog post. Aguilar GS412, great lows, beefy, but feed in distortion with tweeter off, and it smooths it out. 0.8 gnarls.
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Often, turning the tweeter off will not disable the crossover, so you're still getting low passed at 3.5k or whatever. When that's the case, I just bypass the crossover and tweeter altogether.
 
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#46
Have to get fairly fancy woofer-tweeter cabs to have a true crossover for the tweeters, usually jsut high passed and use the woofers own roll off. Mids need a proper job.

Wrote up my idea for the cab rating system on my page, will endeavour to use it to rate all cabs and speakers I handle going forward, morwe useful than watts for comparative reasons:

Useful cabinet rating: gnarls, the measure of how gnarly they are, how well they respond to gnarly distorted tones and enhance them. A totally flat speaker is 1 gnarl. Upper mid bump that makes distortion more prominent and in your face moves it up the scale, this can be frequency voicing or speaker breakup. Dark speakers that cut off the upper content and make stuff sound cleaner and darker go below 1 gnarl. My kappalite loaded cabs, upper mid bump that gets on with distortion great without being obnoxious, 1.5 gnarls. Worn in Vintage 30s with the breakup and upper mids, but fundamentally right for guitar sounding, 2.5 gnarls. Exceed three gnarls and its horrible spikey nasty territory, slashed cones that sound kinda cool and such. New V30s 2.8 gnarls. Guitar speakers will tend to be 2-3 gnarls. Distortion into woofer drivers that are dark but serviceable, like cheaper bass cabs 0.8 gnarls. Playing into an actual sub, 0.5 gnarls or less, 0 gnarls being no audible output.
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Ampstack - Bristol, United Kingdom - Local Business | Facebook
 
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#47
CL400Peavey said:
...depending on the drivers, there could be significantly different levels of gnarl.
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Merriam Webster—
gnarly

adjective \ˈnär-lē\
: very difficult or bad
: very good


This is hard to quantify...:D

gnarled_wood.jpg
 
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#51
You know my pedalboard easily adds like 2 gnarls at least with a half gnarl out of my OD, 1.5 out of my fuzz, and an optional quarter gnarl through the booster. I really need it cause my swr rig has -1 gnarls as far as tone goes.
That 215 by itself will give you an even 3 gnarls with the head putting out another 3 at 8 gnarlohms, which is of course of gnarlpedance, or gnarlsistance I forget

Footnote you guys here in amps need some coffee in the morning.
 
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#52
Jim Carr said:
Gee. Sorry to upset you, pal. You didn't notice the smilies and the rest of my post. N.B., I said the Diesel he has needs more power to open up to it's full extent. Fine—you missed that. Might I point out that the OP's mesa is a 4 ohm 215 rated at 800 watts, IIRC. Do you think his cabinet is as efficient as a Sunn JLB-equipped cabinet? Could his Diesel handle more than 150 watts?

Not that I want to get into this or anything, but I have used a 2000s with two cabs many times. I'll take the rig I have. Glad you are as happy with yours as I am with mine.
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Who's upset? I was just correcting an ignorant statement.:D:D:D;);):D:D:D
 
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#54
waltdogg said:
The red knob Concert Lead is ~150 watts @ 4 ohms and the Beta Lead is 100 watts @ 4 ohms. I've had a couple of each. If you can get a fully functioning Beta, the tonal options are far greater and it has more gain on tap. But the extra headroom of the Concert Leads can be more desirable depending on what kind of music you play.
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Thanks! Very helpful. Would you have any preference in say a doom/stoner (or domer) band setting? Think Sabbath, Saint Vitus, Electric Wizard, Sleep, etc. Not that it affects the sound, but the Beta is in a Emperor case which looks pretty far out.
 
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#58
Hey no problem! This thread got cute fast, eh? I'd probably go with the Beta, that's the go to doomer amp other than an Orange/Matamp or a Model T I'd say. The bassist of Annihilation Time/Lecherous Gaze used a Beta Bass for damn near forever before switching to a TB500 and red knob Coliseum head but they're way more RnR than stoner these days.

Well that's a bust. Snag that Concert Lead then. It's got a bit more power on tap which works a little bit better for bass anyways because the low end will need to eat up that extra headroom.
 
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#60
waltdogg said:
Hey no problem! This thread got cute fast, eh? I'd probably go with the Beta, that's the go to doomer amp other than an Orange/Matamp or a Model T I'd say. The bassist of Annihilation Time/Lecherous Gaze used a Beta Bass for damn near forever before switching to a TB500 and red knob Coliseum head but they're way more RnR than stoner these days.

Well that's a bust. Snag that Concert Lead then. It's got a bit more power on tap which works a little bit better for bass anyways because the low end will need to eat up that extra headroom.
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Ok, thanks for the help man! I suppose if I want more dirt I got the HM-2 (Made in Japan) to spice things up! A V4B from the 80s just came up for sale for pretty cheap, but that wouldn't give me enough grit I don't think. Still cool to look at.
 

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