Just out of curiosity... those of you who are measuring the 1.x and 2.x mm measurements, what type of device are you using to make the measurement?
I use a 1/64th ruler with a depth gauge ... has 64ths on one side and mm on the other.
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Just out of curiosity... those of you who are measuring the 1.x and 2.x mm measurements, what type of device are you using to make the measurement?
Metrics is the way to go. Scientist and engineers approved.
Really? How much music have you read or plaid that was measured in milliseconds?
darius8 said:Since there is 1000ms in 1 second, a 120 BPM song is 120 beats per 60000ms.
My E string is about 1mm above the 12th fret.
Just to keep things consistent and easy to understand:
1) Measure in mm
2) Measure multiple strings, if not all of them and post the rough average.
3) State whether your measurement was taken in relation to the frets or the fingerboard
4) Measure at the 12th fret. You can take other measurements if you want.
I've got my Brubaker JXB-5 down to around 3mm at the 12th fret measured from the fingerboard and it stays just about the same up to the 22nd. I'd say it's low but not crazy low. I think I can get it to go a bit lower without buzzing like crazy too. I'll post if I pull it off.
Another zombie revival
I look forward having an action of about 2mm at the bass side and 1.8ish at the treble side, which is what I can achieve with my BB425 and it allows me to have the clippy stringy, Harris-like? sound if I attack harder, or to mellow and warm it out it out if I play lightly.
I'm actually saying this because I'm currently fighting to reach those numbers with my LTD D5 and I can't seem to get it because if the relief is too low, my first fret will buzz in the G and D strings but if I add a pinch more of relief, the action will raise and the saddles will not go much lower and I end up at about 2.5-3mm in the bass side.
That's a neck-through? If so, easiest thing is going to be filing the bridge saddle slots a bit lower. Alternately, you could take a sanding block to the bottom side of the bridge base plate. You could maybe just do the bottoms of the saddles with a sanding block, but I don't know if your intonation adjustment screws will work with that change in angle.
If it were a bolt-on, this is the exact situation that calls for a very thin neck shim, probably a business card but maybe even thinner than that, like some heavier weight printing paper.
Perhaps, the nut slots for the D and G strings are a bit too low, or the 1st fret needs a bit of leveling done to it in that area?...I'm currently fighting to reach those numbers with my LTD D5 and I can't seem to get it because if the relief is too low, my first fret will buzz in the G and D strings but if I add a pinch more of relief, the action will raise and the saddles will not go much lower and I end up at about 2.5-3mm in the bass side.