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How high is your action and what do you consider low action?

I'm an American, so I don't know these "mm" of which you speak ...

Measured between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string at the 12th fret

7/64” under the E string.
6/64” under the A string.
6/64” under the D string.
5/64” under the G string.

I consider that medium action. Low would be about 1/64" less for each string.
 
darius8 said:
Since there is 1000ms in 1 second, a 120 BPM song is 120 beats per 60000ms.

Nice. I was thinking more in terms of 1/4 notes, 1/2 notes, whole notes and 3/4, 4/4, 6/8 time, etc, but your mathematical analogy seems accurate. LOL. My apologies to the OP for turning this threat into a debate about measuring. I did not intend to cause that with my comment.
 
Old post but thought I would add something here since I was tweaking my Jazz's action and cross referencing TB and other threads. For my Violin basses: 3.0mm on the E, 2.0mm on the G measured at the 12th fret. For my Fender style basses: 3.0mm on the E (following my 9.5" radius) down to 2.5mm on the G measured at the 17th fret. All, bottom of strings to top of fret. No depressing of 1st fret. Anything lower introduces unwanted buzz and dulls the tone to my ear. I do pluck with some aggression ala Jack Bruce most of the time.
 
Another zombie revival
I look forward having an action of about 2mm at the bass side and 1.8ish at the treble side, which is what I can achieve with my BB425 and it allows me to have the clippy stringy, Harris-like? sound if I attack harder, or to mellow and warm it out it out if I play lightly.

I'm actually saying this because I'm currently fighting to reach those numbers with my LTD D5 and I can't seem to get it because if the relief is too low, my first fret will buzz in the G and D strings but if I add a pinch more of relief, the action will raise and the saddles will not go much lower and I end up at about 2.5-3mm in the bass side.
 
Just to keep things consistent and easy to understand:

1) Measure in mm
2) Measure multiple strings, if not all of them and post the rough average.
3) State whether your measurement was taken in relation to the frets or the fingerboard
4) Measure at the 12th fret. You can take other measurements if you want.

I've got my Brubaker JXB-5 down to around 3mm at the 12th fret measured from the fingerboard and it stays just about the same up to the 22nd. I'd say it's low but not crazy low. I think I can get it to go a bit lower without buzzing like crazy too. I'll post if I pull it off.

To you it is low. To me that's unplayably high!
 
Another zombie revival
I look forward having an action of about 2mm at the bass side and 1.8ish at the treble side, which is what I can achieve with my BB425 and it allows me to have the clippy stringy, Harris-like? sound if I attack harder, or to mellow and warm it out it out if I play lightly.

I'm actually saying this because I'm currently fighting to reach those numbers with my LTD D5 and I can't seem to get it because if the relief is too low, my first fret will buzz in the G and D strings but if I add a pinch more of relief, the action will raise and the saddles will not go much lower and I end up at about 2.5-3mm in the bass side.

That's a neck-through? If so, easiest thing is going to be filing the bridge saddle slots a bit lower. Alternately, you could take a sanding block to the bottom side of the bridge base plate. You could maybe just do the bottoms of the saddles with a sanding block, but I don't know if your intonation adjustment screws will work with that change in angle.

If it were a bolt-on, this is the exact situation that calls for a very thin neck shim, probably a business card but maybe even thinner than that, like some heavier weight printing paper.
 
That's a neck-through? If so, easiest thing is going to be filing the bridge saddle slots a bit lower. Alternately, you could take a sanding block to the bottom side of the bridge base plate. You could maybe just do the bottoms of the saddles with a sanding block, but I don't know if your intonation adjustment screws will work with that change in angle.

If it were a bolt-on, this is the exact situation that calls for a very thin neck shim, probably a business card but maybe even thinner than that, like some heavier weight printing paper.

Yes, it is a neck through.

So sanding the bottom of the saddles a bit then, got it.
Seems a bit risky but worth it and not too hard to do.

Thanks, will get back when and if I do it to update on the results.
 
Well, 2 things;
1. I have 23 basses, and their actions are - if I was inclined to measure it - almost certainly different on each of them; and
2. I have never felt so inclined. So, sorry; ain't going to go through a days worth of trouble to do it now, either. However, to answer the question;
- How high are my bass' actions? High enough on some of them that, when I play like I prefer to play, there's no fret buzz. On the others - like, say, my 2 Ricks - there's some fret buzz on tap when its called for...
- What do I consider low action? When you have fret buzz, whether you want it or not - that's low action. I consider the actions/string height on my basses to be like Goldilocks's porridge; just right...:thumbsup:
 
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...I'm currently fighting to reach those numbers with my LTD D5 and I can't seem to get it because if the relief is too low, my first fret will buzz in the G and D strings but if I add a pinch more of relief, the action will raise and the saddles will not go much lower and I end up at about 2.5-3mm in the bass side.
Perhaps, the nut slots for the D and G strings are a bit too low, or the 1st fret needs a bit of leveling done to it in that area?
 
97 Yamaha bbg4 at 12th fret e string is at 2.0 mm, g string is at 1.5 mm. At 1st fret clearance is less than 1 mm. Just slight buzz playing light. Not heard in amplification. D’ Addario chromes. been tweaking for a short time. Patience with the truss rod is key. Light touch and fast play. Slap tone is there and can lightly use thumb like victor Wooten and not like Larry Graham. Although I got about 30 years or more practice to be in same class as Victor. Only commonalities between Victor and myself is that we both play bass. Lol that guy is a God.
 
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I have no idea what this is in relation to a ruler. I just use my ears.

IMO low action is when the note is being choked, ie too much fret buzz which is noticeable when playing. Just right action is the notes ringing loud and clear, maybe the smallest hint of fret buzz that can't be heard through the amp when playing. High action is anything higher than that.
 

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