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How much should a pickup route cost?

gjbassist

gjbassist

Sep 7, 2005
6,039
3,131
60
Kansas City, MO
#1
I'm thinking of adding a MM style pickup to my P bass. I don't own a router and was going to find a local luthier to do the routing for me. The quote I received yesterday was $100. I thought that was high. For that I could almost buy a router and practice on scrap wood until I get good at it! Anyone have experience with this? What is the going rate?
 
#2
gjbassist said:
I'm thinking of adding a MM style pickup to my P bass. I don't own a router and was going to find a local luthier to do the routing for me. The quote I received yesterday was $100. I thought that was high. For that I could almost buy a router and practice on scrap wood until I get good at it! Anyone have experience with this? What is the going rate?
Click to expand...

Thats probably a better idea. Do it twice, and its payed for iteslf.
 
#3
Keep in mind that the router I use for this task is $250. The bit that I use to cut the route is another $45. The template was only $8, but the shipping was $7. The knife that I use to score the finish is $18. The tape is $3 for the masking and $5 for the template.

So for $328 you, too, could be cutting with the tools needed. Add in the experience that I have and you will see that $100 isn't so bad. What will the body cost to replace?
 
#4
mikeyswood said:
Keep in mind that the router I use for this task is $250. The bit that I use to cut the route is another $45. The template was only $8, but the shipping was $7. The knife that I use to score the finish is $18. The tape is $3 for the masking and $5 for the template.

So for $328 you, too, could be cutting with the tools needed. Add in the experience that I have and you will see that $100 isn't so bad. What will the body cost to replace?
Click to expand...

True. Eventually I may want to start doing my own routing but maybe this isn't the place to start. Just like anything else having an experienced pro do a quality job will cost more. I have been a pro photographer for over 20 years. People probably think my prices are high because they can get a "similar" product cheaper if they do it themselves. I guess I should keep that in mind about other industries as well.
 
#5
Also, if this P bass does not have a pick guard that would surround the new pick up, you'll need about a 18"-24" drill bit and drill to make a hole from the pickup cavity to the control cavity.

I think $100 for a couple of hours of work is fair considering all the tools and knowledge needed to do a job like this. If you shop around, you may get it a little cheaper, but not by much. Let's remember luthiers need to make money too :) Also, it's hard to put a price on workmanship. This kind of job, though pretty simple, can go extremely bad and ruin a guitar.
 
#10
OP: is this a totally dismantled bass you got the quote for, or will the tech routing your new pickup cavity need to dismantle and reassemble your bass as part of the job? if you consider that you'd essentially be getting a free set-up as part of the deal (assuming you will be bringing them a bass in playable condition) this is really a great quote for the considerable amount of time and skill involved in simply adding a pickup route on your bass body


p.s. you should also consider the quality of job you want to have done. since this is a MM style pickup route where all of the edges are fully exposed (and you note yourself as a pro photog who will, by nature of the business, have an eye for details) I would recommend using a drill press only to rough out the cavity. the final result of adding a pickup route using only a drill press and template will be less than pleasing if you have any eye for detail, as those edges will be sloppy and wiggly ... at least they are to my eye, as a drill press is unable to achieve the RPM that the router bit requires to make a professional edge cut

all the best,

R
 
#11
mikeyswood said:
...So for $328 you, too, could be cutting with the tools needed. Add in the experience that I have and you will see that $100 isn't so bad. What will the body cost to replace?
Click to expand...

You can get the tools you need for quite a bit less than that, but the core point is very valid that there's more to the job than just a router, and that you're also paying for the job to be done right (without destroying the body)...but you are correct -- for that money you could get a router and you could definitely learn the job....and then you'd have a rout, a router, and a new skill!
 
#12
mikeyswood said:
Keep in mind that the router I use for this task is $250. The bit that I use to cut the route is another $45. The template was only $8, but the shipping was $7. The knife that I use to score the finish is $18. The tape is $3 for the masking and $5 for the template.

So for $328 you, too, could be cutting with the tools needed. Add in the experience that I have and you will see that $100 isn't so bad. What will the body cost to replace?
Click to expand...
Sometimes I help out a struggling poor bassist and cut him a deal. Bring me the body only and a case of beer and your good to go. You'll end up getting a pup install and setup charge to boot.:bassist:
 
#13
Also there is a thing called liability. The tech must, on every job, charge an amount that will be like an insurance fund. If he has an accident and has to replace your body, that could cost him several times more than the $100 he charged you. Accidents happen and they are a real part of doing business. I think the quote you recieved was very justifiable.
 
#15
A drillpress is typically not designed to handle side loads the way a router is. Its not a substitute for a router in any way. Using it this way is jury rigging and not advised if a lifetime of tool use is hoped for...
 
#17
lethargytartare said:
Invalid Link Removed
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Just because Harbor Freight sells something, that doesn't make it advisable. If I were going to use something like that, I'd be sure to only use it with a Harbor Freight drill press ;)

Using the right tool for it's intended job is very important. I wouldn't try to route with a drill press any more than I'd try to drill with my table saw. Routers are built to withstand the lateral torsion generated by carving away the wood at extremely high speeds. Drill presses are designed to handle vertical stress.
 
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#18
SDB Guitars said:
Just because Harbor Freight sells something, that doesn't make it advisable. If I were going to use something like that, I'd be sure to only use it with a Harbor Freight drill press ;)

Using the right tool for it's intended job is very important. I wouldn't try to route with a drill press any more than I'd try to drill with my table saw. Routers are built to withstand the lateral torsion generated by carving away the wood at extremely high speeds. Drill presses are designed to handle vertical stress.
Click to expand...

QFE
 
#20
SDB Guitars said:
Just because Harbor Freight sells something, that doesn't make it advisable. If I were going to use something like that, I'd be sure to only use it with a Harbor Freight drill press ;)

Using the right tool for it's intended job is very important. I wouldn't try to route with a drill press any more than I'd try to drill with my table saw. Routers are built to withstand the lateral torsion generated by carving away the wood at extremely high speeds. Drill presses are designed to handle vertical stress.
Click to expand...

Really? Do I have to list more milling vises? Just google drill press milling vise...find the $2000 drill press with a larger mounted milling vise...I could grab the drill presses I've used that had milling vises mounted on them...sigh...I guess I'm surprised there's such a vibrant market for an attachment that is for a misuse of another tool...neat stuff.

The previous poster found a way to get a job done -- and because you guys aren't familiar with it, you claim it's "not advisable" and "not suitable" etc. But clearly you don't know what you're talking about, and might consider doing a wee bit of research before bashing an idea.

Google is your friend...
 

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