Hi all, I just bought a Whizzy 110 cab because im tired of hurting my back bringing my Markbass 122 to gigs where I don’t need to be that loud. I have a Little Mark III head thats 500W for 4ohms. The Whizzy cab is 250W/4ohms. Is there any rule of thumb for how to not push it too far? Like keeping the volume on my head below half or something like that? I can guess the “correct” answer is to use a lower wattage head, but if I play at a restrained volume is there a reliable way to keep my cab safe? Or do I need to buy a new head…? Appreciate folks’ expertise in advance!
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how to do this right: 500W head + 250W cab
- Thread starter Kumi
- Start date
If you keep volume down below the danger zone, you’ll be fine. But do not trust numbers or look for some sort of knob settings. Instead, you will want to use your ears and your common sense.
Thanks Jimmy. Could you elaborate what you mean by “danger zone”? Just like when it audibly sounds like its struggling?
No, not really. The volume control is an input attenuator, not a device that restricts the amplifier's output power. That means if you hit it with enough signal, the amp can be driven to full output power, even if the volume control is turned down considerably below half-way. You can try listening for speaker distortion, but sometimes that's like the 'idiot' light on a car dashboard -- by the time you hear the distortion, the damage is likely to have already been done. Playing at a restrained volume is probably fine, but it doesn't offer any protection from a sudden event like accidentally pulling your instrument cable out with the input turned up. The safest path is to use a less-powerful amp. It's too bad the Whizzy isn't an 8Ω cab -- that would make it a good match for your 500-watt amp.
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JimmyM's "danger zone": assuming bass-fuzz isn't your core tone, just listen for distortion and speaker compression. Also be a bit careful about taxing your cab with subby-dubby levels of deep bass.
The main danger is taking (only) the Whizzy to gigs that you aren't certain it'll cover. Especially when the cab is still new to you.
After putting some time in with your cab, you'll get a feel for how it behaves. Lots of folks sometimes run larger heads into small cabs without mishap or mayhem. Welcome to the club.
The main danger is taking (only) the Whizzy to gigs that you aren't certain it'll cover. Especially when the cab is still new to you.
After putting some time in with your cab, you'll get a feel for how it behaves. Lots of folks sometimes run larger heads into small cabs without mishap or mayhem. Welcome to the club.
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If the cab’s impedence is 8 ohm, and the amp is rated 500 W at 4 ohm, it probably makes between 250 w and 300 w at 8 ohm, so the danger is limited.
I'd add that if you're already thinking the gig is only going to need a one 10 cab, chances are you won't be turning the amp up loud enough to hurt the speaker.
... this assuming you understand the limits of a one 10 cab and the size of gig it'll support.
.... this is also assuming you're not one of those "my one 10 set-up supports my heavy metal gig and everyone is telling me to turn down"
... this assuming you understand the limits of a one 10 cab and the size of gig it'll support.
.... this is also assuming you're not one of those "my one 10 set-up supports my heavy metal gig and everyone is telling me to turn down"
Thanks, thats a good point about cable rippage. And yeah I wish it was 8ohm too that would be perfect!
thanks! appreciate the advice and it’s reassuring to know plenty of other folks do it. i’m a pretty sensitive player and will bring my 122 if i’m ever not sure if the 110 will cut it!
If the gig requires high volume or fat lows, choose a different/suitable cab.
IMHO. When a cab can safely play louder than the gig requires, you are relatively safe using a high-powered amp. If the cab cannot play loud enough, then it becomes very easy to damage the driver with too much power. It varies from one design to the next, but the driver may be well beyond it's limits before it starts to complain. I.E. you can't necessarily rely on your ears. The good new is the claimed sensitivity of the Wizzy 10 is very high at 102dB 1W/1m, so it should get pretty loud with a modest amount of power.
Another factor is the Wizzy 10 is not a LF power house. If you expect it to produce fat lows, it will be easy to get into the danger zone before you get the required volume.
I believe Gollihur still has some OEM replacement drivers. Replacement Speaker Driver for EA Wizzy 10
IMHO. When a cab can safely play louder than the gig requires, you are relatively safe using a high-powered amp. If the cab cannot play loud enough, then it becomes very easy to damage the driver with too much power. It varies from one design to the next, but the driver may be well beyond it's limits before it starts to complain. I.E. you can't necessarily rely on your ears. The good new is the claimed sensitivity of the Wizzy 10 is very high at 102dB 1W/1m, so it should get pretty loud with a modest amount of power.
Another factor is the Wizzy 10 is not a LF power house. If you expect it to produce fat lows, it will be easy to get into the danger zone before you get the required volume.
I believe Gollihur still has some OEM replacement drivers. Replacement Speaker Driver for EA Wizzy 10
two right ways to go:
1. buy a light 8 ohm 400W rated cab, like a 121 or a 102 from Markbass, the new MB58R line is crazy lighweight
2. buy a 200W head, an Elf, or a Gnome, or a Nano Mark
1. buy a light 8 ohm 400W rated cab, like a 121 or a 102 from Markbass, the new MB58R line is crazy lighweight
2. buy a 200W head, an Elf, or a Gnome, or a Nano Mark
I don't recommend this at all. I say tap out and go for a lower powered head or different cab.
BUT (big but; we like those. nod nod wink wink)... give it a solo test with your amp. I do this even with cabs rated higher than my amps, when either is new to me:
I suggest skip to [12]
(Long)
1. All eq at noon, and contour (or shape or whatever) control at "off" [however that particular thingie works... it may be noon as well... maybe call it "neutral"] and gain/ master pref both all the way down.
2. a) if gain/master amp, put master just a scooch up, so for sure the amp is passing signal to the cab.
b) if only gain, or a single "volume"; same as [a]
3. Play a note [open e is fine] and let it ring. turn up to "not quiet" Using more master than gain.
4. Play the note again, listening for distortion. If distortion, STOP! Get a different cab or amp, this ain't gonna work.
5. If still clean, dial master back and set gain according to manufacturer instructuon.... RTFM
6. Now that the appropriate gain structure is set, repeat step 3, but turn the "low" or "bass" eq (mot master) slowly up. If it distorts click back just a bit. * if this happens with master turned low, STOP. Get a new amp or cab.
6. If distortion only sets in at max bass, no worries. Set to noon and proceed.You've just found your maximum low end excursion.
7. Leave bass eq at noon, and slowly increase master [pluck this same note WITH ENTHUSIASM often listening for distortion]
8. When/if distortion occurs, you've found your volume limits.
9. Adjust master down, and play a simple phrase on the e and a string. If you detect any unwanted sounds, you're still up too high, try master volume first, but you may drop both master and gain to solve this.
10. Set your eq to your preferred settings, checking for distortion every time you increase ANY knob.
11. This is, maybe, your maximum volume. Having double the power on tap that your cab can handle is never something I would do, but this is the best way I can think of to figure out how to keep the cabinet working for as long as it can.
12. Get a new amp or cab, this might or might not work to keep that lovely little 110 alive.
Good luck, however I fear for that cab.
BUT (big but; we like those. nod nod wink wink)... give it a solo test with your amp. I do this even with cabs rated higher than my amps, when either is new to me:
I suggest skip to [12]
(Long)
1. All eq at noon, and contour (or shape or whatever) control at "off" [however that particular thingie works... it may be noon as well... maybe call it "neutral"] and gain/ master pref both all the way down.
2. a) if gain/master amp, put master just a scooch up, so for sure the amp is passing signal to the cab.
b) if only gain, or a single "volume"; same as [a]
3. Play a note [open e is fine] and let it ring. turn up to "not quiet" Using more master than gain.
4. Play the note again, listening for distortion. If distortion, STOP! Get a different cab or amp, this ain't gonna work.
5. If still clean, dial master back and set gain according to manufacturer instructuon.... RTFM
6. Now that the appropriate gain structure is set, repeat step 3, but turn the "low" or "bass" eq (mot master) slowly up. If it distorts click back just a bit. * if this happens with master turned low, STOP. Get a new amp or cab.
6. If distortion only sets in at max bass, no worries. Set to noon and proceed.You've just found your maximum low end excursion.
7. Leave bass eq at noon, and slowly increase master [pluck this same note WITH ENTHUSIASM often listening for distortion]
8. When/if distortion occurs, you've found your volume limits.
9. Adjust master down, and play a simple phrase on the e and a string. If you detect any unwanted sounds, you're still up too high, try master volume first, but you may drop both master and gain to solve this.
10. Set your eq to your preferred settings, checking for distortion every time you increase ANY knob.
11. This is, maybe, your maximum volume. Having double the power on tap that your cab can handle is never something I would do, but this is the best way I can think of to figure out how to keep the cabinet working for as long as it can.
12. Get a new amp or cab, this might or might not work to keep that lovely little 110 alive.
Good luck, however I fear for that cab.
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Just be mindful of your gain structure. Active preamp on bass? Input gain setting on amp. Any EQ boosting in the amp’s preamp. All these can increase the signal, and effectively make the volume knob more of a suggestion than a measure of output. I’m probably saying this really poorly.
If you’re boosting in the preamp, be aware of that when setting the volume. Your max safe volume might be “3”, depending on your pickups and settings, or it might be “5”. Or it might be “5” for most notes, but then hit one string too hard, and uh-oh. A compressor will help with regulating the signal strength you send to the preamp.
Really just play around with it. See what the cab likes, and what it doesn’t respond well to. Do that without the band, so you can really listen.
You can absolutely use this setup if you are careful - but it might take some trial and error to see what careful actually means. I’d start off by cutting the bass frequency down a couple notches.
If you’re boosting in the preamp, be aware of that when setting the volume. Your max safe volume might be “3”, depending on your pickups and settings, or it might be “5”. Or it might be “5” for most notes, but then hit one string too hard, and uh-oh. A compressor will help with regulating the signal strength you send to the preamp.
Really just play around with it. See what the cab likes, and what it doesn’t respond well to. Do that without the band, so you can really listen.
You can absolutely use this setup if you are careful - but it might take some trial and error to see what careful actually means. I’d start off by cutting the bass frequency down a couple notches.
Like most problems on TB, the answer is use your ears and common sense.if it sounds like it is too loud and the speaker is struggling then it is.
Thanks! most of my gigs are small group free improv, or at venues where I’m also going through FOH and monitors so I dont plan to push this cab hard. If there’s no PA and I need to blast I’ll just bring my 122.
Interesting that those replacement speakers are 200W but all the cabs are listed at 250W
I also have a Whizzy 110 and I am pairing it with a 1000 watt amp
