How to lubricate a Ti trussrod

[TFM94]

Hi TB,

For my 2022 summer build-off project I am using a titanium dual-action trussrod from Tatsuta in Japan. I was recommended to use lubrication/ anti-seize on the titanium threads to prevent galling. Now I am wondering what lubricant to use. WD40? Copper anti-seize paste? What would be best for titanium?

 

[Jeff Scott]

Hi TB,

For my 2022 summer build-off project I am using a titanium dual-action trussrod from Tatsuta in Japan. I was recommended to use lubrication/ anti-seize on the titanium threads to prevent galling. Now I am wondering what lubricant to use. WD40? Copper anti-seize paste? What would be best for titanium?

I can't help with any specific product but I was supplied a small container with a special lubricant for my old Ebony 45SU. Any part of the camera that wasn't primarily made of ebony, glass, or leather was made of Ti.

Good luck in your quest, I'm sure you will find the right stuff.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Hi TB,

For my 2022 summer build-off project I am using a titanium dual-action trussrod from Tatsuta in Japan. I was recommended to use lubrication/ anti-seize on the titanium threads to prevent galling. Now I am wondering what lubricant to use. WD40? Copper anti-seize paste? What would be best for titanium?

Yes, get some kind of permanent sticky lube into those threads. Not WD40. Copper anti-seize paste is ideal, but you can't take that truss rod apart, so it may be difficult to get the paste down into the threads. I like moly Gun Oil. It's thin enough that it will seep into thin clearances, but it's sticky so it stays in there long term and doesn't leak out. It's made to prevent galling and wear of tight-clearance sliding surfaces in guns, which may be stored for years. You don't need much; just a drop or two. I keep a little bottle of Prolix Gun Oil on my bench.

 

[TFM94]

Yes, get some kind of permanent sticky lube into those threads. Not WD40. Copper anti-seize paste is ideal, but you can't take that truss rod apart, so it may be difficult to get the paste down into the threads. I like moly Gun Oil. It's thin enough that it will seep into thin clearances, but it's sticky so it stays in there long term and doesn't leak out. It's made to prevent galling and wear of tight-clearance sliding surfaces in guns, which may be stored for years. You don't need much; just a drop or two. I keep a little bottle of Prolix Gun Oil on my bench.

Thanks, Bruce! I was wondering the same thing about the copper paste, it could go only into the first few threads. Gun oil seems like the best bet, I'll see where I can get it locally. Thanks for the advice.

 

[claudel]

KY would be better than WD40...

Go with the gun oil. Small bottle will last a long time.

 

[Gfkfloyd]

How about spray-on dry graphite lubricant? We've used that for delicate threads at my work with great success. Stays in place and shouldn't leach into the wood.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

How about spray-on dry graphite lubricant? We've used that for delicate threads at my work with great success. Stays in place and shouldn't leach into the wood.

That would be a good lubricant, if you had the threads apart. On one of these truss rods, the parts are permanently assembled, and you can't disassemble them to expose the working area of the threads. In this case, you need a lubricant that is thin enough that it will seep down into the assembled threads. Gun oil is designed to do that. Spray-on graphite will stay right where you spray it.