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and if it's a fretless.... Portrait of Tracy!!crank the amp to 11 and slap out higher ground
I dont know, for me, whenever I walk into guitar center this is what I do. Make sure I have a cable, find the 1 amp that actually works in the whole store. Grab a bass that looks sweet first tbh, play whatever comes. For me, id play different things on different basses.
Often, I will carry an amp of my own, so that I can play with a known commodity. To make this easier, I use a small two-wheeled cart, bungee the amp to it, and place the kit with mt test gear on top of the amp. This makes for quick and easy maneuvering in the local GC or Sam Ash, even when they are crowded.
My hands, eyes, and ears were free and they came attached to their own processor and transportation.
crank the amp to 11 and slap out higher ground
Don't get me wrong - look, feel, and sound are important, but a casual examination alone cannot identify critical flaws such as misaligned wood grain structure, cracked capacitors, excessive soldering flux on circuitry, cold solder joints, under or mis-applied shielding paint, body and neck resonance issues, and other areas of suspect workmanship and materials that can be hiding even in instruments with price tags running into thousands of dollars.
There was a time when I would go into a music dealer, pick up an instrument, play it, sight down the neck, and make my decision. That time is long past. The complexity of a modern instrument vs. one made even 20 years ago mandates a greater level of inspection. This is the only way to prevent having a "hidden flaw" visit its ugly consequences upon you in the middle of a gig.
I usually ask it what the square root of 3978 is.
Frankly, I don't believe for a minute that you cart all that crap along just to check out an instrument.
I usually ask it what the square root of 3978 is.
First I find out if they have the same kind of amp or similar one that I use. Then I either ask for a strap or bring my own, since you can't really get a good feel for the bass sitting down. I play around with the EQ settings on the amp to get what I usually use and then I play songs that I play in my band or at church, songs that really bring out the tone I'm going to produce in a live setting. I'll mess around and play some slap stuff and fingerstyle stuff, isolating the bridge and neck pickups and then blending them. It's usually hard to get the exact sound at the shop that I'll get at home because the first thing I do is change the strings when I get a new bass, and that alone will change the tone dramatically.
Hope that helps.
If you are going to the store with the intent to purchase, then you should take a few tools. I have a small kit I carry with me that has the following:
1. Cardinal HSDC-20 digital hanging scale - Let's face it, weight is going to be a comfort factor with any instrument you buy. The GC guys are known to lie about the weight question and you may not have the accurate "calibrated arm" that you think. Take the guesswork out of it with this.
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2. Mitutoyo micrometer model 122-126 (or equivalent). Sure, the spec sheet says that nut width is 1.75 inches, but are you willing to take that as gospel? This guy will help you establish the truth.
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3. Mabis Signature Electronic Stethoscope - Do you really know where those dead spots, defects, and other tonal pockets are located in that prospective new bass? You simply can not afford to guess. This will allow you to get an accurate map of the tone woods with your ears.
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4. Lisle 52500 Mechanics stethoscope - While the standard electronic stethoscope is great for getting the overall picture of what is going on with the body woods, inspecting the neck and fingerboard requires a more precise inspection tool. Before making that purchase decision, know exactly where the dead spots are located.
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5. Lisle 68100 Feeler Gauge Set - How well is it put together? A few quick checks on the assembly points with this and you will get a good picture as to the craftsmanship of the instrument.
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6. Fluke Ti-10 Infrared imaging camera - If you are buying an active bass, you are concerned with making sure that the electronics are "top-notch". Cold solder joints, substandard electronic components, and faulty assembly can mean problems down the road. By looking at an IR image of the preamp while it is in action, you will be able to pinpoint any areas of the circuit where abnormal operating temperatures may indicate problems that will cause excess battery drain.
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7. Fluke 117 Digital Multimeter - Passive electronic components in the preamp need to be checked to ensure that they are within specified tolerance. Any substantial deviation and the preamp may not perform within design limits, often with an impact on your tone. This will allow you to carefully test each component and to take voltage/current readings while the preamp is in operation, ensuring that it is performing as designed. Also, this is useful for routine continuity checks on passive instruments.
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8. Kassoy L-820 Jewelers' Loupe - The finish may look fine to the naked eye, but small defects that may eventually become checks and visible surface flaws can only be identified with a more discriminating look. The loupe will allow you to find these with ease.
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Each of these tools will allow you to make a detailed examination of the instrument under consideration. Make sure that you take the time to use them thoroughly.
OTOH, I heard from an owner of his brand that Roger actually uses these tools on every bass that comes out of his shop, so if you are buying one of those, you may be able to skip all this.
Your skepticism is understandable, as this kind of detailed examination of an instrument is still considered unusual, but there are some of us who are intent upon making the most thorough examination possible given the constraints of viewing an instrument in a music retailer. In some of the larger markets, you will find individuals who derive considerable income from practice of these methods on a consultant basis.
OK, name 5 verifiable individuals that do that.