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Double Bass Hunting for Head and Tail Block Spruce

ArenW

ArenW

Jan 14, 2004
338
599
52
Quincy, MI
#1
i'm on the hunt for spruce appropriate for carving head and tail blocks.

I've scoured the Internet and called numerous suppliers, from coast to coast. I have turned up empty-handed. I found some Eastern European suppliers but shipping is outrageous.

Who here has a good resource they can share?
 
#2
ArenW said:
i'm on the hunt for spruce appropriate for carving head and tail blocks.

I've scoured the Internet and called numerous suppliers, from coast to coast. I have turned up empty-handed. I found some Eastern European suppliers but shipping is outrageous.

Who here has a good resource they can share?
Click to expand...

Alaska Specialty Woods has a good reputation. Alaskawoods.com Dunno what shipping might be like, as it's a long distance...
 
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#3
eh_train said:
Alaska Specialty Woods has a good reputation. Alaskawoods.com Dunno what shipping might be like, as it's a long distance...
Click to expand...

Actually had a nice conversation with Brent Sr. a little while ago and it sounds like he might be able to help me out (after he gets back from vacation!)

Had a realy good chat with James Condino as well and he posed some options to consider with respect to some non-traditional choices that really got my gears turning.
 
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#5
powerbass said:
Does it have to be Spruce? What about some tight grain Pine? If not thick enough laminate it? These are not big pieces of wood, in these locations how much do they effect the tonal quality?
Click to expand...

Pine blocks laminated are certainly a possibility as are a host of other woods. I'm just not in a hurry to use whatever I can find without doing a bit of digging first. Spruce is standard for blocks. I'm hesitant performing an unquantifiable experiment. Once the ribs are on, I don't plan on taking them back off.

So many factors go into the sound of an instrument that I'd kinda like to try to stick to the plan that has been laid out by the last 400+ years of luthiers (or at least give it a shot before going to plan B).

If I had the luxury of being a full-time luthier and building gobs of instruments, I'd undoubtedly be more interested in experimenting with alternatives. Alas, I'm a working stiff and this is a hobby.

I'm open to ideas if experimentation is necessary to make this work but I'm not there yet.
 
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#7
ArenW said:
Pine blocks laminated are certainly a possibility as are a host of other woods. I'm just not in a hurry to use whatever I can find without doing a bit of digging first. Spruce is standard for blocks. I'm hesitant performing an unquantifiable experiment. Once the ribs are on, I don't plan on taking them back off.

So many factors go into the sound of an instrument that I'd kinda like to try to stick to the plan that has been laid out by the last 400+ years of luthiers (or at least give it a shot before going to plan B).

If I had the luxury of being a full-time luthier and building gobs of instruments, I'd undoubtedly be more interested in experimenting with alternatives. Alas, I'm a working stiff and this is a hobby.

I'm open to ideas if experimentation is necessary to make this work but I'm not there yet.
Click to expand...
Old school bass builders often used what woods were available - pine, poplar, willow etc. Here's a link about a Ken Smith Prescott Bass made w/a variety of native New England woods. Abraham Prescott. In other words using woods other than Spruce is not experimental.
 
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#10
s0707 said:
I found this website a long time ago and I've always been curious if their spruce would be useful for instruments: Spruce Spar Stock | Aircraft Spruce
Click to expand...

Prices are cheap enough, I think I'll order some just to check it out. If it doesn't work out, I'm only out a few bucks. If nothing else, it looks like the capstrips might work for linings, cleats and whatnot. Thanks! I'll check it out and report back!
 
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#12
Don't overthink it.

The neck & tailblocks will have no measurable effect on the voice of your first bass build.

Use something seasoned, stable, affordable & move on. If you sweat the little details too much, you'll never get to the finish line.

Out of hundreds and hundreds of old basses across the spectrum of age and value that I've had opened up, one of the toughest neck blocks I have ever seen was made from common white oak in 1937. Nobody I know would recommend that choice....but it worked great. The entire rest of the bass was completely destroyed, but the neck block was still going strong without a single issue.
 
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#14
I would hesitate on the Hemlock...You might be OK, given the short length, but hemlock does not enjoy a reputation for being dimensionally stable. (Perhaps there are different kinds of hemlock...but the hemolck I have used loves to twist, ward and rot...:-(
 

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