Strings go on, strings come off. Why on earth do want to restring a bass 4 or 5 times with the same strings. Say you are working on the bass and it needs to be restrung that many times. How often does that happen? Non-issue!
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I don't know why people hate on Fender bridges...
- Thread starter georgestrings
- Start date
Strings go on, strings come off. Why on earth do want to restring a bass 4 or 5 times with the same strings. Say you are working on the bass and it needs to be restrung that many times. How often does that happen? Non-issue!
I actually have that argument in the strings forum at least once a month. Guys over their LOVE to boil their strings once week. Dumbest thing I've ever heard of, but I get smacked down every time I say that.
I like top loading because I am constantly messing with my setup, it's a disorder you know. Also, I find it that I have less chances of getting a twisted string in the top loading, although this could be alleviated by being careful.
Ruined strings! Terrible string spacing! Rattling! Fuzzy silks! Oh My!!!
How on earth have they stayed in business all these years??????
(I have 4 of these poorly designed pieces of junk. I'm just not all that picky I guess....)
How on earth have they stayed in business all these years??????
(I have 4 of these poorly designed pieces of junk. I'm just not all that picky I guess....)
Hell, if there's a "great benefit" to boiling just the strings, imagine the benefits you could reap by boiling the whole bass !
Over 47 years I've owned Fender, Gibson, Rickenbacker, Steinberger, Music Man, Dingwall and Epiphone basses and never had a problem intonating, setting action or stringing any of them. Only bridge I have ever had trouble with is the one on my Hofner Icon.
I think that people need to read the thread to understand what the point of the thread is before stating solution like the above which have NO bearing whatsoever on the point of the thread...
I believe the OP has already made the decision to be a dedicated string swapper (not that I agree with that). Given that, and assuming that this is a vintage Fender P-Bass that we're talking about, I suggest this:
Buy another vintage P-Bass bridge. One that has cosmetic issues would be just the ticket. Set aside the original P-Bass bridge for collector value. Slot the 2nd P-Bass bridge for quick string changes. Totally reversible on the bass.
As long as you only make the absolute minimum sized slots, I doubt very seriously that you will have any sonic issues. I think I would rely on my own ears more than the bass tech's advice.
Buy another vintage P-Bass bridge. One that has cosmetic issues would be just the ticket. Set aside the original P-Bass bridge for collector value. Slot the 2nd P-Bass bridge for quick string changes. Totally reversible on the bass.
As long as you only make the absolute minimum sized slots, I doubt very seriously that you will have any sonic issues. I think I would rely on my own ears more than the bass tech's advice.
I fail to understand why people are so passionately defending/slagging a bit of hardware. If it works for you, rock it, save money, be happy, sacrifice a goat for the damned souls of those who don't agree with your point of view. If it doesn't work for you, replace it, rock it, be happy, sacrifice a llama (exotic goat-like creature) for the damned souls of those who don't agree with your point of view.
- Jun 25, 2006
- 3,226
- 341
- Disclosures
- Owner, Pike Amplification & 3Leaf Audio
It's not a vintage bass, and I probably will move to a slotted vintage-style bridge. It's just annoying that nobody makes one.
I just don't understand the issues with Hipshot bridges. I would look at all the very high end builders who use them on their basses and try and figure out why they work for them and not for you. I have had a number of basses with Hipshot bridges and never experienced the issues that you seem to have.
- Jun 25, 2006
- 3,226
- 341
- Disclosures
- Owner, Pike Amplification & 3Leaf Audio
I honestly don't know why other people haven't raised this issue - I can't be the only one who has a problem with the A bridge design. It probably has something to do with my playing style - I do a lot of palm muting, striking the strings from the sides rather than from the top. I also have a rather heavy touch and I use lower tension strings, so there's not as much downward pressure holding the saddles in place.
The A bridge would work fine if it had channels in the baseplate to hold the saddles in place.
I just got off the phone, with someone who had been referred to me; he wanted to have an aftermarket bridge installed on his MIM Jazz, which he loves, playability, tone, the works. I quizzed him on what was up, and his thoughts were that the bridge was, "cheap", because the one of the G saddle height adjustment screws kept moving. I told him about nail polish/loctite, and saved him a bunch of money!
well I like quick change option on bridges too becouse I change my strings after 3-5 shows (than I clean them)...there is also some probleme to place strings in right position on Fender spiral bridges or new Fender-dlx bridges...I changed couple of bridges on my Fender and it's not just about how quick you can change strings or about comfortable adjustment, string placeing etc. The bridge upgrade will change your sound too ;-) (of course) sometimes very dramatically...I like HS/A style alu, much better than brass one but you can hear sooner your strings are out of good shape...but there is more meat on alu bridge, well Schaller2000 was also good, I like to try Schaller 3D, well there is not than quick change option but I want to get sound between Fender and HS/A alu bridge...
There is right sound with Fender bridges for some players...well other modern bridges sounds more balanced, well sometimes "less Fender"
There is right sound with Fender bridges for some players...well other modern bridges sounds more balanced, well sometimes "less Fender"
