It is so tall where does it attach to the body, and how do you hide the fingers... it just doesn't make sense to me..
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
I just dont understand how a 2TEK bridge works..
- Thread starter Arnie
- Start date
The 2TEK bridge installs through the body and attaches to back. This may shed some light on things.
I know how they work, I just don't understand why.
Wait I know, because Stratocasters and Fender Basses just don't sound good enough yet to make music that will stand the test of time. Finally, someone may have found the key to it all with these insanely overblown and pricey bridges.
Seriously, look at all the lightening holes. There's no more mass there than a strandard Strat trem bridge. Theres a lot more surface area though so it costs more to chrome. The only part that's touching the body is a tiny rim on the bottom plate. The bass version is no different. All that mass is not in contact. Cool.
Wait I know, because Stratocasters and Fender Basses just don't sound good enough yet to make music that will stand the test of time. Finally, someone may have found the key to it all with these insanely overblown and pricey bridges.
Seriously, look at all the lightening holes. There's no more mass there than a strandard Strat trem bridge. Theres a lot more surface area though so it costs more to chrome. The only part that's touching the body is a tiny rim on the bottom plate. The bass version is no different. All that mass is not in contact. Cool.
They differ from Strat trems in that the blocks are isolated from each other. The trem block on a Strat trem is just one chunk of metal with all of the strings attached to it.
Except that all the little metal "fingers" are attached to one another. The isolation theory is a sham.
So much material gets removed, and quite the hole is left... Thats why I am confused... I haven't seen one of these in the wild yet..
Because its expensive snake oil veiled as a highly engineered piece of metal that looks shiny and give you bragging rights don't you just want to go out and cut up your bass for this? Actually I played several places with this thing on it and found no real difference except the bass weighed a helluva lot more than it needed to just for hunk of metal that looks cool from the top and way stupid from the back
To answer the original question of "I don't understand how a 2TEK bridge works?"
It's really not that complicated. It works exactly like a Fender L plate bridge in that it anchors the ball ends of your strings to your instrument. It just does it in a more complicated and expensive manner.
Please don't get me wrong, I love gaudy machined locking bridges, but I draw the line at any bridge that is not a direct fit. If I have to fill and drill or remove wood for a bridge to work it falls off my radar pretty quick.
It's really not that complicated. It works exactly like a Fender L plate bridge in that it anchors the ball ends of your strings to your instrument. It just does it in a more complicated and expensive manner.
Please don't get me wrong, I love gaudy machined locking bridges, but I draw the line at any bridge that is not a direct fit. If I have to fill and drill or remove wood for a bridge to work it falls off my radar pretty quick.
I guess I need to read up on these things. When they first rolled em out, I thought the strongest selling point was that it may help to prevent sympathetic string vibration for those who can't or don't want to learn how to mute.
You are right. Preventing "crosstalk" was the major talking point. It doesn't work.
Requires pro level woodworking skills and tooling to retrofit in an existing instrument.
Cool looking bridge, though.
And don't forget that installing one is a one-way street. Most other bridges can be changed with no more mods than drilling a couple of holes and perhaps plugging old ones.
I did it, and I love it. If you enjoy modding, woodworking, destructing, and have some spare time/cash, it's a lot of fun and a pretty cool concept.
If you're just looking for mind blowing change to your tone and overall feel of your instrument, look elsewhere.
If you're just looking for mind blowing change to your tone and overall feel of your instrument, look elsewhere.
Agree. If anything, the 'crosstalk' is probably magnified as those tall fingers ring. And there's no real reason to assume this 'crosstalk' is actually a bad thing. Looks bunk to me.
Having said all of that, I've never tried it. Probably won't, either.
Crosstalk, or the ringing of other strings through sympathetic vibration, is thought to be a problem for some players. However, proper right and left hand muting techniques eliminate crosstalk and wolf tones. Once again, the 2Tek bridge is a hardware solution for what is a technique problem. Or a solution in search of a problem. And unfortunately the solution just doesn't work.
As far as the product itself goes, it is a very nice bridge. It is well thought out. The parts are machined nicely. It adjusts easily.
Installation requires major woodworking skills and tooling and once done is not easily nor cheaply reversed.
I get what you're saying but that's not their angle. They're saying that strings deliberately played together interfere with each other and that this fixes it.
Better off using the single string bridges to really isolate them from each other
http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=222
http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=222
For that matter, a separate body & neck for each string. Or each note.
"Have another glass of snake oil, this way to the egress".
