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Ibanez 2369B Routing Specs (Mid-70s)

Hi folks,

This is a bit of a longshot, but what better place, eh?

I am looking at building a replica of the Ibanez 2369B bass from 1976-1978. (Yes, I am a Graham Maby fan)
I understand the bridge is placed the same as a P-Bass.
The Jazz Bass and P-Bass pickups are NOT located in the standard J-Bass and P-Bass locations. I need to know exactly (as reasonable) the location of the pick-ups relative to the bridge and neck pocket. I have attempted to use photographs to make the call, but am not satisfied with my calculations - so here I am.
Does anyone have access to one of these basses and is prepared to take the measurements of the positions of the two pick-up routs relative to the bridge and neck pocket? Please see the images supplied.
The closest I can get is the J-bass is 10mm (7/16) from the bridge, and the top of the split pick-up (E and A strings) to the neck pocket is 45.5mm (1 25/32).
Any guidance, and of course any other info, would be hugely appreciated.

Cheers
R
 

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It looks like you've been having trouble getting numbers on this. Unfortunately it's one of those rare Lawsuit-era basses, not many people have 'em. Even Reverb has no sales history on them.

So it's surprisingly difficult to find good quality photos that can be used for measurements. Here's what I've come up with:

J pickup (center line of pole pieces under G string):
Distance from saddle: 1 125/128 " (1.9765625") (5.02046875 cm)
Distance from 12th fret: 14 75/128 " (14.5859375") (37.04828125 cm)

P pickup (center line of pole pieces under G string):
Distance from saddle: 6 69/128 " (6.5390625") (16.60921875 cm)
Distance from 12th fret: 10 3/128 " (10.0234375") (25.45953125 cm)

How I measured:
ibanez lawsuit pbass.jpg

Found an image on Reverb that appeared to be reasonably useful (actual pic is higher-res than my scaled-down screenshot implies, but it still wasn't that great). Opened the pic in OmniGraffle, marked off 34 inches, stretched the pic to fit. The purple lines are where the G string exits the saddle, centers of the pole pieces, and inner edges of the nut and 12th fret. The white boxes were snapped to the lines, I copied their widths and calculated the values as shown. We only have to be concerned with one string so it's OK that the bass is not directly facing the viewer -- as long as the focal center of the camera is perpendicular to the string path. This doesn't directly tell you where to put the P-style E A pickup, but it should be easy to figure out as long as the D G pickup is accurately placed.
 
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Firstly, please accept my apologies for not replying sooner. Sometimes things get a little busy and I'm not always glued to my device etc.
Secondly, a huge thank you for your respone. Clearly you have spent some time on this and I am grateful.

It may be some time before I get to this - a 5-string sits in between - but I expect to post some images here once the project is completed.

Cheers
RossG
 
Any chance you have a long ruler/yardstick/meterstick and a camera? I suspect with a 5 string to build before getting to this project, Ross (and whoever comes after Ross) might well be grateful for some better pictures to work from.
 
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How did you get on with this? Just curious as I picked one up from a retired guy recently, it's sat right here in my living room :). He's had it since the 70's and it came with a hard case!

Brilliant! Thanks Laurence for keeping me in mind.
I tried using @ardgedee's work but couldn't quite get it to land satisfactorily - nonetheless, I am supremely grateful for the input.
Since then I have downloaded as many images as I can find but the reality is that there is no substitute for real hard measurements.

Apart from that, I have had no luck. I have noticed since that the bridge itself has a larger 'baseplate' than say a standard Fender one too. I guess the trick is the measuring from the back of the baseplate, where it kicks up. Obviously the two pickup placements are key to this replica project.

And @Laurence T, it had a case!?!? That is really good fortune. Most I've seen are essentially two piece , the latches having completely pulled out of the ply itself over time. Great find.

And also, thank you @T_Bone_TL , you and @Laurence T represent what is truly great about this community.

And a bit of a flex if you don't mind, I only just finished a Warmoth-based replica of a limited edition P-Bass, no longer available for sale. I anticipate the planned Ibanez 2369B replica will finish the same.
Warmoth BM Letter 5 rotate.jpg WarmothPBass BurgundyMist tag1.jpg

Cheers from Canberra Australia.
 
For sound, the saddles on the bridge matter most in relation to where the pickups are; if you get the same bridge, or make one like it for replica-purposes, the location of the back might be useful, but if you have some other-shaped bridge, it's the saddles.
 
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Thanks for that reply.
Yes, understood.

I should have been more clear, my head was thinking aboout measuring the distance from the 'J-bass' pickup to the back of the bridge, given that the Ibanez bridge appears to be longer than a standard Fender bridge, but I didn't actually type that. So sorry about that ambiguity.
Many on here have commented about the bridge pickup being closer to the bridge on these Ibanez basses than a standard Fender Jazz Bass, but I am wondering if the oversized Ibanez baseplate could be making that some kind of illusion.
measurements would settle it perhaps?

Cheers
R
 
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Thanks for that reply.
Yes, understood.

I should have been more clear, my head was thinking aboout measuring the distance from the 'J-bass' pickup to the back of the bridge, given that the Ibanez bridge appears to be longer than a standard Fender bridge, but I didn't actually type that. So sorry about that ambiguity.
Many on here have commented about the bridge pickup being closer to the bridge on these Ibanez basses than a standard Fender Jazz Bass, but I am wondering if the oversized Ibanez baseplate could be making that some kind of illusion.
measurements would settle it perhaps?

Cheers
R
Here's a 180 degree take. A bass is basically a beam between the nut and the bridge. The strings have a fixed termination point (nut) and a moveable termination point (bridge). If you're doing measuring, figuring and planning, it's advisable to ignore the moveable termination point and focus on the fixed termination point as your reference. So basically, measurements from the nut will be more accurate and generalizable than measurements from the bridge saddles.

In @ardgedee 's post above, he's showing measurements from the 12th fret, which is exactly half the scale length from the nut (i.e. it's another fixed measurement point). Even though he's extrapolated from a photo, his numbers show:

Bridge: 14.5859375
Neck: 10.0234375

A typical PJ bass has:
Bridge (60's): 14.5"
Bridge (70's):14.75"
Neck: 12.25" (to middle of EA pickup)

So basically it shows that the Bridge is roughly equivalent to the 60s JB position, and the Precision pickup is nearly 2.25" closer to the neck than a Precision. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks @Beej for taking the time to look at the work @ardgedee has done, and indeed the work you have also done. It's a sign of a great community that one is prepared to put that time and consideration in.

Whilst I recognose that basses are not part of a space program, computer chip manufacturing, medical devices or a Formula 1 car (the imperial measurements give that away :) ), there are two things, however, I am trying to avoid. 'roughly' and 'nearly'. I am sure we all appreciate that when it comes to making a replica. Having said that, I also recognise that the pursuit of perefection often gets in the way of excellence.
And whilst that might sound like I do not apreciate the effort everyone has gone to, that is not the case. I love that people care enough to help a fellow player. I just want this to be as perfect as possible (even though Warmoth bass headstocks are not the same shape as a Fender/Ibanez headstock (I don't want to get into that now, suffice to say it is about the radii used and the break point for the lower curve/bout.))

Cheers everyone
R
 
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Thanks @Beej for taking the time to look at the work @ardgedee has done, and indeed the work you have also done. It's a sign of a great community that one is prepared to put that time and consideration in.

Whilst I recognose that basses are not part of a space program, computer chip manufacturing, medical devices or a Formula 1 car (the imperial measurements give that away :) ), there are two things, however, I am trying to avoid. 'roughly' and 'nearly'. I am sure we all appreciate that when it comes to making a replica. Having said that, I also recognise that the pursuit of perefection often gets in the way of excellence.
And whilst that might sound like I do not apreciate the effort everyone has gone to, that is not the case. I love that people care enough to help a fellow player. I just want this to be as perfect as possible (even though Warmoth bass headstocks are not the same shape as a Fender/Ibanez headstock (I don't want to get into that now, suffice to say it is about the radii used and the break point for the lower curve/bout.))

Cheers everyone
R
True, but @ardgedee 's numbers are much closer than ballpark - certainly close enough to build from and end up very close to the real thing. Pickup placement will affect tone as you move them, but within 1/8", not so much. :D A bigger issue for you will be finding a 33.5" scale neck, unless you're planning to build it? If you are, we can help. :thumbsup: