I'd be a little leary of the giant paint chip on the back of the lower horn....Wonder how hard and how far it was dropped?
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Ibanez Ergonomic Headless Bass (EHB) club
- Thread starter Killed_by_Death
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- ibanez;headless
I'd be a little leary of the giant paint chip on the back of the lower horn....Wonder how hard and how far it was dropped?
Both are great deals. Someone will be getting a great instrument. Mine is not for sale.
Ouch. Maybe offer 600?I'd be a little leary of the giant paint chip on the back of the lower horn....Wonder how hard and how far it was dropped?
That wasn’t damage from a drop, it was from something dumber. That chip happened when my german shepherd puppy gnawed on it. It wasn’t that bad initially, but stupidly I picked at it and made it bigger.
If it doesn’t sell within a week I’ll probably end the listing so I can strip and repaint it
If it doesn’t sell within a week I’ll probably end the listing so I can strip and repaint it
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So, I got a different EHB1005MS in today after deciding sea foam was my true calling, rather than black.
However there's one thing I'm noticing... while these tuners have always taken a bit of force to use on both basses, it's taking a LOT of force on the high string with this one. Like, either going up or down & pitch, it's super stiff & it'll lurch once you overcome friction. Hard to have any precision.
Is there anything I should check before hitting up the store I bought it from? I was also planning to restring regardless, which maybe would fix it, but I'm afraid if I do they won't help me out.
However there's one thing I'm noticing... while these tuners have always taken a bit of force to use on both basses, it's taking a LOT of force on the high string with this one. Like, either going up or down & pitch, it's super stiff & it'll lurch once you overcome friction. Hard to have any precision.
Is there anything I should check before hitting up the store I bought it from? I was also planning to restring regardless, which maybe would fix it, but I'm afraid if I do they won't help me out.
I'm going to try some silicone grease. I'll let you know how it goes. I have a super-sticky D mono bridge/tuner.
I wish I had yours! It was so frustrating to see Anderton's throwing BH2's up against FDN3's and Fishman's--on 10lb basses with 37" necks! And as a result, seeing players on this forum vowing to sell their EHBs. At least get the best tone you can before you bail and go for 37" of reach and +2.5 lbs of weight!
yeah, I can tune it with a screwdriver, though it makes plenty of creaking noises when doing so and moves in short steps.
I wouldn't worry too much about damaging it. It's easy to replace one of them with a Phillips screwdriver.
I could never truly determine the root cause, but I solved that same problem two times after restringing by loosening the string to no pitch, messing with the ball end’s fit in the bridge and retuning.
At least helps isolate the problem to the bridge screw mechanism vs the string getting stuck somewhere.
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It's not so much that so much as that this is a brand new bass & if there's a defect with the bridge/tuner I don't feel I should have to pay for a new one. I also don't fancy carrying a screwdriver around with me for tuning, it should be hand-turnable.
That said I was searching through earlier in this thread and it seems that holding the string under tension when initially stringing it makes it a lot easier to tune afterwards. I was planning to swap strings anyway & if I get the go ahead from the shop I purchased from that they'll still honor an exchange/repair if it doesn't work, I'll give it a try.
Changing strings shouldn't void any warranty on the hardware if that's where the defect is.
Tried reseating the existing strings today to no avail. For one, they were overtightened & crimped by the pegs at the headless stock, can't get enough grip for tension on them, I'll need new strings. For two, even with no string, the high tuner is moving differently from the others. I noticed it's missing a washer and also that there's a chip in the finish beneath it.
There's also a tiny ding on the horn that I wouldn't mind given that I got a good deal on this, but it's of note. They shipped the bass to me outside of its ibanez box, just in its gig bag surrounded by bubble wrap...
I've reached out to the shop asking how they want to handle this. They do have several other 1005MS-SFM on hand.. I feel like an exchange would be good?
There's also a tiny ding on the horn that I wouldn't mind given that I got a good deal on this, but it's of note. They shipped the bass to me outside of its ibanez box, just in its gig bag surrounded by bubble wrap...
I've reached out to the shop asking how they want to handle this. They do have several other 1005MS-SFM on hand.. I feel like an exchange would be good?
It's worth a try although there's no guarantee that you'll get a perfect replacement. That one tuner can be replaced, and an Ibanez dealer should be able to get one--that's just another option.
I was given either option & I think I'm just gonna go for the replacement both aesthetically & for no risk of stripping a screw hole or anything. They have many in stock so hopefully they can vet the next one as they do seem to remove them from the stock box for photos.
When the next one arrives though- I was following the video on restringing from Ibanez and the action on strings just seemed significantly lower. I was afraid to tune them to pitch / with more tension so they'd rise above the fretboard, as I was afraid I'd strung them wrong and that they'd snap despite following the video's guidelines.
Any stringing tips? Seating it right at the bridges, ensuring there's enough tension through the pegs, how to only apply enough force at the peg to keep it in place without damaging the string. Is it really just go until you feel the slightest bit of resistance and then stop? I was using the long end of the hex wrench for less torque.
I also found that, in lining up the line in the ball-holder with the edge of the intonation screw like the video suggests, it didn't seem to provide enough range to fully tune a string.
https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Fou...ds=bike+cable+tensioner&qid=1653330175&sr=8-4
I use a bicycle cable puller (with a cloth to prevent scratches) to ensure plenty of tension for tuning with the amount of thread available for adjustment on the machine knobs. I do use 'feel' for the amount of clamp pressure--a torque wrench could be used but the torque may be different for each type of string. I've only killed G-strings. Once I had my preferred strings chosen, I ordered some extra G strings. I try for a once-and-done approach: 1) plenty of tension with tension tool, 2) quick tightening to a good hold spot. 3) after all strings are on make one pass with gentle tightening to look out for under-tightening that might cause slippage. 4) Try not to take the strings off until they need replacement.
Previous recommendations to take out the clamping screws and smooth the edges seem like a good idea, especially if you are killing a lot of strings. I haven't needed to file my screws, but I will if I start killing a bunch of strings.
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Hi
I am planning to buy an EHB1000s. Just curious to know whether it uses normal strings or has to buy short scale strings.
Can anyone please help me with that?
Thanks in advance.
I am planning to buy an EHB1000s. Just curious to know whether it uses normal strings or has to buy short scale strings.
Can anyone please help me with that?
Thanks in advance.
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