Ibanez nut replacement with Just A Nut III

Changing to a lighter gauge of strings should not require a new nut. You've got something else going on...or overlooked...during the string install or set-up which is more than likely causative / culpable.

Riis

 

Could be but not for the reasons you think. If your fret any string at the third, is there any gap (per spec .003-.005") between the string and 1st fret? How many downward wraps on the tuner post? Did you set your witness points at the tuner post, nut, and bridge? That's just for starters.

IME, the gauge change should be of no consequence at the nut. OTOH, I would expect the relief to change so a truss rod tweak may be in order if you haven't done so already.

Riis

 

Most nuts can be bought as universal blanks is probably why you are struggling to find the piece. You could choose whatever material you wanted.

If the neck width matches the nut width, I can't see why it wouldn't work.

I agree that I am suspicious that it isn't the nut.

Good luck.

 

Yeah...go over the checklist provided by myself and others...pics would be great.

Edit: my parents lived in Oradea (Transylvania) years ago.

Riis (...on my way TO work)

 

I realize that you want to use lighter strings, but you do not need to replace the nut. The strings will still be at the same height. It's the bottom of the string to the top of the first fret that's the critical distance, and unless you filed the slots lower, they will still be at the right height after the string change. The chance of chatter in the nut slot is minimal to none because the bass has an angled headstock and that will pull the strings to the bottom of the slot with good downforce.

There's another reason I wouldn't replace the nut with a Just a Nut but I won't go into it here because it is likely to cause an argument. Suffice to say I'm not a fan.

I think you are just making needless work for yourself.

 

A few things...

*No, never lived there myself and my parents have passed. Dad was a chemical (rubber) engineer and was there to help with a fledgling tire re-tread industry. Problem: the economy was particularly bad and the Romanians were wearing-out tires beyond the point of viability.

*Re-string the G...wrong side of the post.

*Ideally, the strings should be hitting the bottom of the post which results in a nominal break angle over the nut. I hate the hourglass posts. Any way you can loosen the coils and slide them down?

*Set your witness points if you haven't done so already....important.

*The bridge saddles should be even with / parallel with the base plate. Do not attempt to tilt to meet the fingerboard radius.

*Since your overall string tension decreased, you may need to add relief / relax the truss rod a bit.

Riis

 

I wouldn't worry too much about that with a tilt-back headstock.

I believe there is just the one set screw per saddle to adjust height.

 

From the 1st photo, the A string break looks a little shallow even with the tilt-back.

I stand corrected on the bridge saddles! This would make more sense if the saddles butted-up against one another via a side-mounted locking screw a la G&L.

Riis

 

No, you're fine provided intonation is spot-on and string height is set to your preference. IOW, don't mess...my less-than-keen eyesight failed to disclose the single height adjustment screw for each saddle.

Riis