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Identifying & replacing/substituting Power amp Transistor.

Mrd34d

Guest
Aug 28, 2015
83
20
Windsor
This is for the Kustom amp. I've got all of the other parts ordered, but I'm having a hard time finding this transistor.

Kustom part no. 007-0012-00

So far I've have found that it's transistor 38737-40410 nte129 pnp driver

But anything I've come across looks nothing like it. Any ideas?

image.jpg
 
That's Q5? Do you know for sure this one is bad?

Might be a replacement already. A TIP32A or 32C (don't use a plain non-suffix TIP32) would likely work BUT you must identify the pinouts on the board and match the new transistor exactly.

Ideally, if you were replacing it, you would also match hfe with its complement npn so a TIP 31A (or C) would be for the other side.

Also, it seems like that should have a heat sink on it. The other Kustoms of that era had a big integral heat sink which is sorta represented in the layout. That's one reason I wonder if it's a replacement.
 
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This is for the Kustom amp. I've got all of the other parts ordered, but I'm having a hard time finding this transistor.

Kustom part no. 007-0012-00

So far I've have found that it's transistor 38737-40410 nte129 pnp driver

But anything I've come across looks nothing like it. Any ideas?

That ECG 292 is almost surely not the original part, and most if not all subs for that part these days will not be green. You can find a NOS one on eBay right now if a generic sub is in your plan though.

What Kustom amp are you trying to fix?
 
Charlie, I believe the OP said it was a Sidewinder. Power amp schematic and layout was here: Invalid Link Removed

Thanks Bill. I agree with you about the heatsink. IIRC the original part was probably a Motorola part with an integrated heatsink, like Acoustic also used back then.
 
That's Q5? Do you know for sure this one is bad?

Might be a replacement already. A TIP32A or 32C (don't use a plain non-suffix TIP32) would likely work BUT you must identify the pinouts on the board and match the new transistor exactly.

Ideally, if you were replacing it, you would also match hfe with its complement npn so a TIP 31A (or C) would be for the other side.

Also, it seems like that should have a heat sink on it. The other Kustoms of that era had a big integral heat sink which is sorta represented in the layout. That's one reason I wonder if it's a replacement.


Someone had suggested replacing it in the other thread, so I figured better safe than sorry. I have no idea if it's a replacement unit or not, if it needs replacing or if there were heat sink initially.

I've been trying to find an image of the factory 5033 power amp board; then I'd know for sure whether or not there's a heat sink.

Think maybe I should just leave it? Replace all of the other parts and see what happens?

All of the parts I ordered...

Kustom sidewinder resistor values

Resistor - "R26" - 510, 5% 1/2w-PAID
Resistor - "R18" - 1K 1/2w-PAID
Resistor - "R25" - 150 1% 1/2W -PAID
Resistor - "R24" - 0.51 5W-PAID

Diode - "CR2" - 1N4007- PAID
Diode - "CR1" - 1N4007-PAID

Wire wound sand resistor - "R21" - .51ohm, 5% 5W -PAID

Q5 - transistor- LECG292-274-part no.007-0012-00 - (38737-40410)
Q7 - transistor - 2N3638A 7226-PAID

Light bulb - 28v #335-PAID

2X-1/4 input jack 4 tab
2X-1/4 input jack 2 tab
1/4 input jack 3 tab

Luckily each order comes in packs of 5, 10, or even 100 for diodes. So I've at least got a second or third chance for those if they pop.
 
Thanks Bill. I agree with you about the heatsink. IIRC the original part was probably a Motorola part with an integrated heatsink, like Acoustic also used back then.
Thanks Bill. I agree with you about the heatsink. IIRC the original part was probably a Motorola part with an integrated heatsink, like Acoustic also used back then.


Ya Bill is right, it's the Sidewinder combo. I was foolish in thinking every single person coming through here would know what I was talking about; my bad.
 
Thanks Bill. I agree with you about the heatsink. IIRC the original part was probably a Motorola part with an integrated heatsink, like Acoustic also used back then.

RCA was in my Kustom 250, actually. It's been years since I looked one up but perhaps a 40409/40410 (TO-5 case with heat sink) as shown in my RCA book.

edit: Here's a set on that site: RCA 40409 and RCA 40410 NPN and PNP Paired 70 Watt AB Amp Driver Qty 2 of Each | eBay so you can see what they looked like. Note the board layout shows a large rectangular outline...matching the 40409/40410 shape
 
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RCA was in my Kustom 250, actually. It's been years since I looked one up but perhaps a 40409/40410 (TO-5 case with heat sink) as shown in my RCA book.

Could well be. Bud Ross seemingly just used whatever was the absolute cheapest available part at a given time. I think my Kustom 200 used Motorola pieces, but it may easily have already been into replacement parts by the time I got it. In any case, this looks like a job for an experienced tech with a well equipped shop to me. You don't always get second or third chances just because you bought extra parts.
 
The ECG is certainly an aftermarket replacement.

It looks like it's been in there almost as long as the rest of the stuff. I still have a pretty good feeling the resistor blow out was from the mouse nest that was in the amp(...I did mention that before right?)

I ordered everything off of my parts list using the info you guys and the dudes at vintage Kustom gave. Once I can get my multimeter out of storage, im gonna start testing everything.

Assuming the transistors is ok, I'll fashion some heat sinks for them. The neighbour should have some old PC ones kicking around I can cut down & modify
 
So it sounds like you're serious about repairing this yourself. Also sounds like you're going to repair it by the old "let replace parts" program, in which case you'd better plan on replacing every component on that power board, plus the two output transistors.

Otherwise, a little bit of test gear would be useful. First, make you a Dim Bulb Tester. Very simple in concept, some folks make very complicated versions but really all you need is a light socket in series with a receptacle of some sort. This way when you fire an unknown amp up, you have a visual indication whether or not the amp is shorted out. If the amp does have a major problem, the DBT limits current automatically (through the light bulb) so you won't burn up anything more in the amp. I'd make this DBT, unhook the transformer's secondaries, and fire the amp up on the DBT to make sure the transformer is good. No use going any further if the transformer is bad, not cost-effective to find a replacement.

A transistor checker like this Peak DCA55 is a very good little investment. It not only checks the transistors, it measures hfe, and furthermore, it tells you which pin is B C and E. Very useful. Sure you can use a DMM diode check to test a transistor, with a whole bunch of measurements...lots easier to use a little meter.
 
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