Increasing wattage in a bass cabinet

[Russ Clark]

Hi, I need to replace the 10" speakers in my Ampeg PF210 cab. To replace like for like, I'd need 200w 16 ohm speakers and this combination seems quite rare. However, I can find higher wattage 10" 16 ohm speakers so I'm wondering what would be the consequence of fitting these instead. Can anyone help?

 

[Mushroo]

For best results, you should order the exact replacement drivers from Ampeg. The consequence of using the wrong drivers is that the cabinet probably won't sound as good.

But if you want to roll the dice, there are some suggestions in this thread: Ampeg PF210 Replacement Speakers

 

[Old Garage-Bander]

For best results, you should order the exact replacement drivers from Ampeg. The consequence of using the wrong drivers is that the cabinet probably won't sound as good.

But if you want to roll the dice, there are some suggestions in this thread: Ampeg PF210 Replacement Speakers

Cabs are designed to work best with the speakers they were designed around. Change the speakers and you no longer have that "works best with" situation. It might work, it might not. As Dirty Harry says... "do you feel lucky?"

If you need more power handling capability in a cab, your best bet is to get a cab that will handle more power.

 

[BassmanPaul]

C As Dirty Harry says... "do you feel lucky?

You forgot the “Punk.”

 

[Downunderwonder]

Why the need to replace?

A common misconception among the great unwashed of bass is a 400w cab will go ahead and take all a 300w amp can give it.

I am thinking a lot more may be needed than just replacement speakers.

To boot, reconing with original parts is usually a lot cheaper than total replacement. If the job is done well it ends up identical to a brand new one from the factory.

 

[Old Garage-Bander]

You forgot the “Punk.”

..."well do ya? PUNK."

 

[BassmanPaul]

..."well do ya? PUNK."

Much better! Here endeth today’s lesson.

 

[Bill Whitehurst]

 

[JW56789]

For any name-brand, well-engineered cabinet, the speakers are OEM: There are LOTS of arcane engineering values that Ampeg (or anyone else) called for from their speaker vendor to work with that cabinet. It seems like another 10" with the same diameter and screw-hole pattern should be a drop-in change, but in reality it's physically possible but sonically it's a crapshoot. You might get lucky, but odds are it may change the tone in a way you may not like.

You never mentioned WHY you need to replace them . . . . . .

 

[Russ Clark]

Thanks everyone, I'm replacing as the cones in both are blown. Apparently getting re-coned would be a similar cost if not more to replacement speakers (which can't be bought apparently, just like for like spec) so I ruled that out. I'll try and get a second opinion on that.

 

[Bassmec]

Thanks everyone, I'm replacing as the cones in both are blown. Apparently getting re-coned would be a similar cost if not more to replacement speakers (which can't be bought apparently, just like for like spec) so I ruled that out. I'll try and get a second opinion on that.

you have destroyed the original drivers cones, therefore apart from getting those Re- coned, which will replace all those damaged parts and leave you with as good as new and ought to be cheaper than buying suitable replacement loudspeakers.
Then unless the speakers were damaged in a one off accident you need to double up on your cone count in order to be reliable at the volume you seem to need.X
Higher power handling 10" speakers than 200watts are often less sensitive and less agile than lower powere'd ones.
And will require a cabinet designed to provide the exact amount of reactive air pressure to suit the suspension of the replacement loudspeakers.
It's a bit like why a set of suspension dampers on a race car may not be suitable for a different design of race car suspension.X

 

[moogieotter]

A lot of ppl still just "stuff boxes" which can be fun.